dripley

I have a modified basket and it will suck the tank dry.

I have my AD set with all returns straight to the fuel basket. The fuel pick is in there too. My normal fill ups are in the 32 to 34 gallon range. I have run this set up 8 years and if there us any difference in how it runs with a full or near empty tank, it must be subtle because I cant tell a difference.

He speaks a lot of truth on this. I also have a weepy head gasket for believing the 100k mile change of coolant like the owners manual suggests. Go figure!!!!!

Well I hate to say this but I have never completely changed or flushed my PS fluid. I have on several occasions taken the "turkey baster" thing and sucked what fluid I could get out of it and replaced it. I cant say that is the best thing to do by any means since most folks have seen failures long before I have. The only thing that has failed on mine is the hydro boost. It blew the seals. But I am in a minority on this. Most folks have see other failures long before me. So please dont let my experience set your maintenance schedules. You might pay a price.

Still have mine 452k.

I dont disagree with what you are saying on the flow ratings. I have heard it enough here to believe it. I dont know any other way to describe them other than the numerical designations the manufacturer puts on them. The main reason I bought the 165 was not the flow rating but that it came with the kit to mod the fuel basket and get rid the intank pump. The cost difference between the 100, 150, and the 165 was only $30-$40 as I remember. Just made good financial sense at the time. Plus it came with the filter head for better filtration. There are pros and cons to both for one to choose from.

My older brother served as a medic in 69-70 in the central highlands, Pleiku and Kon Thum if I spelled those right. Any chance that is when you were there?

I have to assume that the suprechips works like a Smarty and installs a program and then you have to put it back stock to install another. Maybe a call to them might help or take it to an auto parts place and see if their code reader will communicate with the truck.

My original one stayed up but was not riveted. It just stayed up by itself, dont remember how. After replacing my damaged front end with new to me parts it hangs down and has no holes where it was riveted to anything but wont stay up. I guess it's just a wind flap now.

Welcome. This is a great place for help. The only stupid question is the one you dont ask.

Welcome. Sorry to hear of your troubles. The best place to put this would be in the 2nd gen forum. It will get much more visibility. Have you ever checked for any trouble codes? They would help. Anything right now would be just guessing. Thank you for your service and sacrifice. I have 3 grandsons in the Army at the moment.

I bet the engineers didn't know how useful it would be.

Cant you just un plug the chip? Thats all I have to do to take my comp off. What code are you seeing? If the truck is stock the ECM will defuel the engine once you pass around 20 PSI of boost. My comp boost fuels the ECM into not seeing that. Not sure if the super chip does that, I know nothing about them. If it is not communicating with the ECM I doubt if is boost fooling. Was the super chip working before the VP failed?

I ran a booster bump on mine for quite a while along with the in tank pump. It served me well and fixed some issues with low pressure I had. It did work but I never had much Idea of the pressure nor what would happen if the other pump failed. You can do it but I would consider it a temporary fix and install a fuel pressure gauge to keep tabs on it. I did replace mine about 3 years later with a full AD pump, 1/2' lines and a fuel pressure gauge. Just did not know much about the fuel system back then.

The only thing I can add is free revving in neutral is not a true measure of fuel pressure. Other than idle you need to measure under load on the highway. Chances are you are much lower that you think. Do you have the stock block mounted pump?

Mine has the air dam also. Does the sport package not include the front air dam? I do not see it @KATOOM's picture.

You answered your own question on the lift pump, Not a good design. Bad enough that after some time Dodge would not even use one for replacement of a bad one. That is how the intank pump for a 2nd gen was born. Have you parked you truck and just let run and looked over for fuel leaks? Not sure how the filter canister would completely drain with out it leaking on the ground. Not sure but I dont think you can siphon that empty. I had hard start issue a few years back and it was on the return line from the head and the VP. It was allowing air in and draining the fuel from the VP. That seems to be a common spot, but as @Mopar1973Man mentions above it can be in other places also. And with the weak power could be from a suction leak letting air in the fuel stream.

Mine has one also.

Your welcome. I went thru 3 cam sensors in about 4 or 5 months before one finally lasred on the wifes Dakota. Bad ones do come out of the box sometimes.

Have that same thing in my spare harness. Got assume they are in all of them. I have not opened it at the VP to see whats there yet.

Looks like the crank sensor. The codes are in the articles section under 24v 2nd gen, obd error codes. I cant seem to post the links to night.

Welcome. Wish i could help but have not had to deal with that one.

Have you for codes? Cam sensor maybe? Codes would help.

Happy to see you at least got some rain out your way and not enough for mud slides. Never had to dodge in the way fires out my way. Hurricanes is more what i have dealt with ovrr the years. Not so much at home but while working on the coast. Though Hugo back 25 years or so ago blew part of my roof off. Shingles that is.

I looked on line and it seems the 100 might come with the kit. Seems to me the 150 might be purchased that way also. I would be good to call Vulcan or DAP and talk with them and see what the pump comes with. It should be a complete kit. It is a bit vague on their sites as to what is included but a phone call would clear it up. As far as the quick diconnects, mine are still working fine. If i ever do have a problem or change fuel lines i would get rid of them. Also on the intank pump kit, mine has a 3/8" pick up, just the way it came. I did not know a lot about this back then and never gave it a thought. I do see a 3 to 3.5 psi drop in pressure on mine. My ADII 165 has an an adjustable presuure regulator where the 100 and 150 are preset at the factory with a spring. Mine is easy to adjust while the others will require a different spring or stretching the existing one. Others here know more about that than i do. Not a deal breaker just a differnce in design. But the 165 or whatever they make now is more expensive. No matter what of the above you get the kit should be complete to the VP.