dripley

I run 55 in the ftont and 45 to 50 in the rear. If I saw a dquare foot of contact patch on mine I would be under inflated. That will wear a tire faster than over infalted. The 80 psi on the tire is the pressure you need for the tire to carry its rated load.

I put about a foot of hose on mine but it comes with a 90 on it. Anything that stops the wind from blowing it back in will work.

When you removed the AC box the 90 most likely got knocjed off. The stub comes thru the fire wall on the right side at the bottom level of the AC box. It is very short and a bit hidden by the insulation. If it fell off the wind is blowing the water back in thru the firewall. You could run the AC while parked and see the water dripping. At least that is what happened with mine. I never noticed the drain while it was out.

You most likely just knocked the 90 off of the end of the drain and the wind is blowing back into vehicle. Just add a 90 or a piece of hose like @Dieselfuture advised and the problem will be solved. Had to do that to mine after replacing all of that stuff a few years back. Simple fix.

I saw it, but how long till it starts cracking? Always been leary of the used oe ones on their longevity. I wanted to start fresh. No offense meant, I did consider it.

I smell it brewing in the kitchen now.

Leaky heater core. Is the carpet wet?

Valet mode for a manual truck and no quad.

While you hot wire you ought to mo itor the the voltage coming out of the ECM pigtail to see if the problem lies there or maybe in the relay harness for the Raptor. Hate to see you rebuild an ECM when the problem might be elsewhere.

Where does one get a seal kit for the PS pump?

If one is flickering probably a bad connector if both are most likely any of the above as @Mopar1973Man says.

If you could rig your volt meter to the power for the Raptor you could at least tell whether you have good power to the LP from the ECM when it acts up. This could be the LP, VP, or the ECM. When my in tank pump was getting weak it caused some bucking and dead peadal issues that were resolved with a booster pump.

Corn fusing!!!

Thats my kinfolk shes talking about. They are rather inquisitive.

Only if you dont get up.

Are you sure the problem does not lie in the pump itself and not the ECM?

My truck is pretty much my office for now so i know what you mean. 92 out this way today, humidity about 90%. Need a break from this crap.

You always look that mean sitting in the passanger seat?

One the best tools i have used is the parts look up tool and get the oe part number. It does not always turn up but has pointed me in a good direction for the most part. Some extra research will be involved. Have you tried removing the one you have cleaning it? Might just be plugged up?

I went back in my shop and thats the first zip ties I saw, three yellow and one pink, both flourescent. Never even saw them riding to the hardware store. All i could see wash a dash bezel that fit everything it was supposed to. Got the gauge pod from Vulcan with a 3 gauge package. I already had the a pillar pods so thought i would try something different. I like the location and the gauges are easy to read. My dash pad came from LMC also, replaced it about 5 years ago. Good fit and looks also. It is a bit more involved to replace. I would also recomend while you have the dash out to pull your HVAC box and replace the heater core and evaporator. Clean it all up and replace the foam gaskets. All that might seem like alot work but it is well worth it.

May be. I did not ask them that.

Told yall it would make faster. 120 in the driveway aint bad. I could not put the new in with out cleaning the rest of it. Blows my mind how much dirt can get in the speedo. It went to 0 when started the truck.

I spoke with about rebuilding my RV's a few months back and as I remember it was about $120 if they do not have to use any new nozzles. But I would call them like Mike says.