dripley

I need some of that in a bad way.

They sure did use a lot of tape there. Felt like I unwound a half a roll.

Stock the lift pump ran off of the ECM. The electric lift pumps most of us run today use a relay and the only thing the ecm does is trigger the relay and the pump power comes from another source. I think everyone is trying to figure out whether you are powering the lift off of the ECM as originally designed or the ECM is just providing a trigger for a relay to run the pump. Running the pump off of the ECM puts a lot load on it.

Ouch. Glad you both came out ok. My 96 had a V10 in it. I did everything I asked of it except pass a gas station. Gas was only a buck a gallon when I had mine so it was not to painful. Dropped a valve thru the #10 piston at 160k.

I am putting my money on the 5v signal splice more than the ground splice but it could be either. Something looks weird about it in the 1st picture posted.

I have always liked how mine drives empty with the 265's. But towing I always wanted a touch more rpm for the 65 mph towing. I guess all I need is extra st of towing tires.

I monitored my MAP with my scan gauge. They read them strangely, I idle around 26 psi and max I ever see is 39 ps. This is quite normal for the scan gauge but don't why. Any way when the low power issue would happen the reading would drop to 14.6 psi and just stay there. Then when the power would come back the scan gauge would back to it's normal readings. Mine also started doing this sporadically any time. I got the engine load above 40% or so. The higher the gear the easier it happened. It would show on the scan every so often due to the SG's slow refresh rate. It acted very much like a loose wire. A manipulation of wiring harness stopped it. Mine is starting to do this again so a manipulation of harness in order again. It this fixes it again I am certain it is in the harness and not the sensor. The MAP also shares a spliced ground with several other sensors very near the signal wire splice so it could be in the ground. My finger is on the splice.

I re used mine too.

That is exactly what happened to me. It started with trying to swap the MAP sensor. Ended up with the same sensor but the truck ran like it should. So the only thing i messed with was essentially the wiring harness. But the problem was solved. That why I am pretty sure it is in the wiring harness at the MAP sensor. but thru that process I know my hands got on the harness at the ECM also. At least I am convinced that is where my issue lies. I am thinking the 5v signal splice near the the ECM. Just wont know for sure until I get some spare time.

I would check your fittings again on the suction side and be sure they are tight. It sounds like you are sucking air in somewhere with all the foamy fuel you are seeing.

I am thinking you have a MAP sensor or associated wiring issue, it might even be the Comp itself. You can eliminate them Comp by disconnecting it. If it is still happening then it is not the Comp. I battled the same issue for a while. Started with surging and APPS codes with occasional MAP code. Swapped the APPS and no help. Then I tried swapping in my old MAP sensor. Well I broke it and put the other one back in. The surging disappeared. Fast forward and I started having the same issue you describe. Low power, slow accelaration and low boost. No smoke either. If you have a lot smoke with the symptoms I would suspect you have another boost leak some where. I also got a stray p0237 code sometimes but not always, most times no code. Anyway I have partially solved my problem and am 99% sure it is in the wiring. This is because the thing I have done is manipulate the wiring and it stopped. There is a 5v signal wire splice in the wiring harness just outside the ECM. It is for the MAP and oil pressure switch. I think that is where my problem lies but have not had the time to open it up and see. Might even be one the pins on the connector, I just don't know. The truck acted up again a little while back and I reached down and grabbed that part of the harness and gave it a squeeze and a wiggle problem gone again. Here is picture of it. This is a spare wiring harness I have. I cant gaurantee this is your issue but I also don't believe it is the VP. If you have a way to monitor the MAP sensor while driving that would help. You could watch my sensor drop out when it act up.

Like to see how they do road taxes. Or do we just need to drive more and buy more fuel?

I would second that. There is a reason they included it. What little I have read about the dual disk clutches says they need a different clutch fork.

Sounds right to me.

When I bought mine the Cummins was only a $5500 extra. Of course I did not get an e brake nor an active air, whatever that is. Now if you can just find the window it is attached to........

Where did you buy the Moog steering ?

The whole tyranny. You would be surprised how much heat you can put in the tranny in 6th gear. Especially towing. Found that out after putting a temp gauge on mine. I also have Fass Coolers on mine. I have seen 220* on mine towing in 6th in mild hill country even with the coolers. If you put them on you need to add 2 more quarts to fill. The other extra quart is to help keep 6th gear bearings lubricated. The fluid does not get back there well on the full. I fill mine till it runs out the full hole then put the truck on a hillside and one more quart. I might add that I have always towed using 6th as long as half throttle will hold the speed. Any more and I would down shift to 5th.

I replaced the cancel switch for the cruise from Rock Auto. It was the same switch that came in it. Cant remember which brand it was though.

He is talking about stray ac voltage from the alternator. And the mod he is speaking of is one a lot of us have done to our dodge Cummins. @Dieselfuture is not thinking you have suburban with with Cummins in it. Is the fuel pump and transcooler fans powered off of the ECM? Or just controlling a relay for power?

What color is tha fabric? Is it headliner fabric or does it go by another name?

I have not done that part yet but I believe direct is better. I suppose you could ground to the firewall and put another wire from the battery to where you ground it. Very much like the what I did with the splice near the VP. As for a reason why electrically I could not answer that. Y'all can choose to ignore this if you like. Seems somehow I ended up on an old question.

I think if y'all were to open the hood and the wiring harness that crosses the front of the engine from the alternator to just above the VP you will see all othe wires and the splice that needs to be dealt with. If you can read @W-T's article and ignore all of the technical info it is much simpler. Just concentrate on the steps for the mod. At least that's how I did it. @IBMobile wrote it up here as little further back in the thread without with out all the tech info. Wish I had taken some photos but did not see the need.

Junk yards are plentiful in NC and the rest of the SE.

You and me both. Plus a lot more of us. Don't think Cali likes that idea.

I never heard of turning the key on and off twice to get the pump running. Mine, I just bump the starter, no engine start, and it runs for 30 seconds or so.