dripley

I used Mike's article to do mine. I replaced my dash cover and rebuilt the HVAC box with new foam and replaced the heater core and the AC evaporator while I was in there. I spent 2 days doing mine but got in no hurry doing it. It is not difficult but find some time so you can take your time if you need it. I also replaced the blend door connector while in there. It can be replaced easier with the box out, but can be replaced later if you are not having problems with the blend door.https://heatertreater.net/dodge-ram-95-02/

Sounds like multiple things. The 341 is your can shaft positioning sensor. That could be the cause of your shut downs. Is your tach working. While not expensive it is between the Vp and the block and difficult get to with out removing the pump. Not impossible and I have heard of folks doing it that way. Never had to do it myself. the 1689 is more concerning. The ECM and the VP are having trouble communicating. I would defer to others for advice on that one. The delayed WTS light and starting is the ECM having problems with boot up. Again I would defer to someone else to explain this in better detail. I would however start with the cam sensor and see what happens with that. It could be contributing to the poor electronic communications that are going on.

Makes sense if I had been thinking stock. I changed that one over to military style a good while back and forgot it was originally part of the terminal clamp. Duh huh.

I have often wondered why those connectors are even there. They just dont seem to have purpose.

Heater core is definitely the culprit I would say. Nothing else in the HVAC box that would leak any coolant. Never had any leak in my coolant system other that that. Unless you count blown radiator. That goes beyond a leak. Never smelled the coolant, it left so fast.

I do like that, I have only made north of 20 a few times with 22.4 being my best.

Always good to hear of a problem solved. Simple or not so simple.

You could just drive it with the fuel cap loose and see if it helps. Still needs to be cleared but that would give you some instant feed back.

We also use the internet for long range forecasting. Works pretty good. I will agree completely with you on this.

I just use the rock. Your truck can be substitute also. http://www.windycreek.com/weatherrock.html

That is something there. I will remember to roof top pic if inever pull into your driveway.

As long as you get a fass with the filters you can bypass the stock filter. The return does not go thru the filter on my 02 and I don't think it does on any 2nd gen 24v. I am sure someone will correct me if i am wrong. My AD came with a pre w/s filter and the secondary after the pump. I did keep the stock canister for the fuel heater but you can just take it out.

Mine still fires off at 20* no problem without the grids. A little extra smoke but not much. I spent last winter in TN and going to spend this winter in MD. We will see what happens here. Last winter on really cold nights, 20 or below I plugged it in on timer. Had it come an hour or hour in and half before I left. Never an issue and the heater warmed up pretty darn quick. Like that a lot better than the grids. JMHO. And in the FWIW column, I disconnected mine 2 years ago. Of course it is not as cold as it gets out your way.

I guess I have to base mine on my past experience with a S-10 Chevy. Cranked way down on it and it turned like a dream in the parking lot. Jumped it out on the road and when I went for second the truck went on with the left turn I started. Did a real nice 180 in the road. Just did not want to see that happen to anyone.Just for you @Mopar1973Man love ya, mean it. Ahhhh ha haaaaa!

Thought I had lost my caddy!!!!

Thats a Mickey Mouse ride I dont want to ride.

Glad you are OK. I was talking with someone here right about the time the storm was nearing and we were all wondering how you fared. It was one hell of a storm.

I gave up on the 1/8th turn a while. Tried the quarter turn this time. might have to give that up too.

I get sick of the news media presenting news and then telling me how upset I should be about it. And if I dont agree there must be something wrong with me. Politics seems to be bleeding into all of it. All I need are the facts and I can form my own opinion. It seems they are all getting worse about this year after year. I guess I should add that with hurricanes at least we know they are coming and have a chance to get out of the way, not so much with the wildfires. In 2015 we out here on the gulf and east coast set an all time record of 9 years without landfall of a major hurricane, cat 3 or better. We have seen some of late however. There also seems to be alot wildfires for y'all out west these days. All of this gets a lot of news coverage and we see much more of the damage than we did 30 years ago. Don't know much chem poisons from aircraft. Cancer is definitely in our faces all them time it seems. Lost a dear sister in law back in 04 due to cancer. But how many have died from it back when no one knew what it was? Hard to keep records on something when you don't know it is. I do think it is more prevalent these days but don't know any facts to back that up. Lawsuits for are definitely up from it.

All I have ever done is tighten it up. No lifting, jacking, steering nothing. First time I only did 1/8 of a turn and had to do it twice to get results. This last time I did a 1/4 turn and need to do it again. I guess with 422k on it small adjustments dont work anymore. If you overtighten it you wil know. The steering wont return. Pretty sure there is a much more involved way to do it. Read it somewhere on a thread here a while back. I have just never done it that way personally.

I have never had a boost elbow. I relied on the banks tuner to do the fooling since the waste gate opens at 32 or 33 pounds. Though plugging it would see how high it would go. Without fooling it will set the code. I had to drive mine for near 3 years by the boost gauge to keep the code from setting. Got pretty good at it. As far as the VP causing bad mileage, not sure that sofa is big enough to hide behind, but Mikey does not have house to hide behind.

When i did my original tuner it was a Banks package. One part of it was a different waste gate actuator. It opens at near 33 psi of boost. When the tuner crapped out and i removed I had to drive at 20 or so psi or ot would trip the same code. That is because the tuner did boost fooling. No tuner no boost fooling.

The butt dyno is good for that. But I spent 5 years in my truck stock before adding a tuner. The difference was night and day. No time in a stock truck would not allow you to see that difference. But as far as I know the tuners that change the ecm programming require them to be returned to stock before the tuner can be used on another truck. Though not impossible, most likely not. Not sure how you would tell however.

My EB is in the elbow and it stopped working. That's when I noticed the linkage not moving completely in either direction. Something is gone in the actuator. But it was causing higher EGT's. Probably a loss in power but I caught it pretty quick. I took the actuator off and wired it open. My boost is off a couple pounds from a year ago but the EB thing is the only thing other than a blown boot that ever raised my EGT's. The boot caused a lot of smoke but the EB did not.

How is your exhaust brake. Mine failed a few months bank and was partially closed. That ran my egt's up. Found it before i ran enough fuel thru it to notice any lower fuel mileage. If i am reading correctly you have your boost pressure back to normal, correct?