dripley

I have SGII and it works fairly good. But there are much better options out there for alot less money as @Mopar1973Man has posted above. I have used mine on other vehicles but never used the mileage feature. never felt the need for it

I have seen the pictures just hard to grasp what the change would do. Heard a lot of good things about it though and the cost is comparable to the Y steering. So I have not written it off as of yet. I do know that when I rebuilt my Y steering, with MOOG by the way, it was as good or better than the stock parts. Never saw anything bad about MOOG until I had replaced all of mine with MOOG.

I am like you in not understanding the benefits of Y vs T. I am convinced there must be some difference but the only way I could know is to swap it out. I might do just this in the near future we will see. For now at 420k I am on the stock Y steering and it has been good for the most. Mine is getting worn and we will see what happens. That being said they both replace pretty much in the same way. All of these parts are bolt off and bolt on. Getting them apart is tricky if you have never done it before but not that difficult. I went in for an alignment at near 220k, my first since buying it new in 01. The shop told me it cost $900 to replace just enough to do a proper alignment maybe 40% of the parts. I did not like that very much so I started looking for parts. I ended buying all the parts and some tools to replace every thing including all of the ball joints for the same $900. The only reason to replace the tie rods is if they are bent. I dont know how to tell you whether they are bent or not since new they are not all straight. I probably could have save some coin had I known at the time. Now with all of that being said, if you are seeing and feeling parts getting loose I would say do the whole thing, Y or T and the ball joints if they are worn. It is more money and time but was worth it for me to start all new and I knew my trucks history. Maybe you do not. I did my ball joints one saturday for on side and the other the next saturday. Then the tie rods the next weekend. I also took alot of beer breaks. You can do it all in one week end if you just barrell in and do it. I am not good at that. You will save money and be happy with the end results. Did my first rebuild at 60 years old and the next one I figure to be 66 so dont let it worry you. If I can do it anyone can as you dont mind getting dirty and turning a wrench.

Damn, they are straight on the truck too.

WTF. Nobody told me we ran out beer.

My original on the 02 was a 1 1/4 socket but they dont make that on anymore. The new is a 1 1/16 socket but the plugs are different. I have adapter on mine. Had it for years.

Well IIRC my 2500 curb weight on the sticker was just under 6k pounds. Cant imagine a 1 ton would be over 7k. I googled it and came up with 5958 for a curb weight. That is from the factory and includes nothing you might have in it.http://www.nadaguides.com/Cars/2001/Dodge/Ram-3500-Pickup-1-Ton-V8-Dual-Rear-Wheels/Quad-Cab-SLT-Plus-4WD/Specs

Maybe they had to export it to NC to get rid of it. But is possibly the straightest lumber I have bought right out of the hack in 30 years. So if you are ever in a CFA in Bowie MD that smells like dog piss, I built it.

Looks like I missed a perfect opportunity for a potato joke. Oh contraire!! Seems on a trip to Lowe's for some lumber I stumbled across some potato wood. Just cant get away from you Mike. Can ya'll really grow potatoes on white fir trees? The cool thing was out 55 2X8's 12, only 5% of them were not straight enough to use whole. Try that with southern yellow pine. I would have to cull at least 25% of them. Busting peoples mirrors off just aint right. I hope they catch em and give them a good ole dose of what for.

The stock flip up mirrors work great no matter the style. 'they just bolt right on. Mine came manual and upgraded them to heated power a few years back. If you go that route and your truck did not come with them you will need the backing/mounting plates that are offered with them

That is longest link I have ever seen to get to one simple thing.

Well it is his gain and your loss, Been thru that some in my career. Tough to loose the good ones but they always seem to be the ones that move up. Shoot I was one once until I decided to become the head baby sitter.

@Wild and Free did he work with you? Good to see his business is working for him. I have heard him mentioned here before several times.

Told my son he would drive me to the cemetery in the 02 on my last trip. He tells it better be running good or he is going to call ahead and have them dig a bigger hole. Me, just to get the last jab in, it will be running top notch even if it kills me. AAAHHHH HA HAAAAAAA!!!!!

Not sure what kind of help this will be but here goes. This I know, you have to get that fuel pressure up if you are going run it that hard. Does your AD not have a pressure regulator on it? My 165 does. The symptoms point to a VP but with no codes for the VP it does raise questions. I just went thru a fairly long bout of APPS codes, dead pedal, and engine surging mostly noticeable at idle but still present at speed and only visible on the scan gauge. Fast forward about 2 years and the issues were still present and on top of that I had started to get MAP codes on top of the APPS codes. I had already put a new Timbo apps and it did not fix anything. So one weekend I decide to put my old MAP sensor in and broke it in the process. So I put the old back in. Since that day I have not had one issue of dead pedal or surging or apps codes. That has been 3 months ago. I was however still getting 236 and 237 codes. I did replace the MAP sensor and now only see an occasional 237 code. I guess where I am going with this is the issue might be in the wiring. I am pretty well convinced mine is. I do not have a clue how this is all related other than the MAP APPS ECT IAT and oil pressure switch share the same ground. One bad sensor on the ground can make other stuff act up. Sorry for the ramble but hope it helps some anyhow. Others here are much more versed in the electrical things than I so lets see what they have to say. AC noise can and will contribute to this also as mentioned above.

Same here brother.

I am liking it.

Sorry to hear about the job. Hope everything works out for you and the truck.

Sounds like a nice ride. Now you can sneak up on folks.

I set mine at 6 and 16 150k ago and never saw any difference in anything. I checked them about 30k ago and they had not changed much but again I never noticed any changes in how the truck performed at all.

Aint nothing just could not resist.

Good job. I admire the work you are putting into it. Keep it up. Cant do it in fiberglass like you are but can do it in wood for the house. I get a lot of satisfaction out of that, just as you must with the project.

Just speaking personally others mistakes help me turn a possible mistake into a success. Seeing others mistakes here has helped me greatly when tackling something new to me. Another reason I try and share my mistakes. Just another aspect of this site that has educated me. Keep it up.

Nothing like old technology.Still works centuries later.