dripley

I would not have thought bed liner would get slick when was wet. Goes to show what I know. But I dont think you were going to spray the step pads also, were you. The pads on mine are not slick wet or dry.

Hope I can shed a little light for you. The fuel pump relay in the PDC, fuse box, under the hood is not for the lift pump. It is for the VP. The original set up has no relay or fuse for the oe lift pump. It was run straight off of the ECM. The proper sequence for the pump should be a short 2 second or so run of the pump at key on. Then bump the starter, no engine start, and the pump should run for 25 seconds or so. After that if you turn the key off and immediately back on, it might not repeat that. Wait a few seconds before turning the key back on and it should repeat that sequence over and over. The ECM needs a few seconds between cycles. Did the Raptor come with a wiring harness, including relay and fuse? Or is it just connected to the oe harness for the stock lift pump? I am familiar with the Raptor just not how they install. i dont know what relay you can jump out in the PDC that would run the lift pump unless a PO wired one in. The truck should not have one. If you look to the left of the clutch fluid reservoir you can see the fuse and relay that came on the wiring harness for my AD. Did the Raptor come with anything like this? It uses the oe harness for a trigger for the relay and I pull 12v power from else where to power the pump. I would assume that since you replaced the tank level sender that every thing was clean at the fuel pick up. Did you install a new fuel pick up or reuse the oe? How are checking to see if the Raptor is actually stopping after running a while? And as @Royal Squire says a fuel pressure gauge in the cab is your best friend. A good mechanical gauge is not that expensive.

Maybe that why the Scan Gauge II picks up the map so strangely? I have seen nothing but really strange readings of mine. It never reads 0, mostly in the 30's as I remember. I dont even set it on the map anymore.

At the risk of being repetitive, Wally world super tech for me.

I got faith in you. I have only done mine once and found quite easy. But I did take my time and few beer breaks. Definitely took me more that 2 hours but dont remember how much. Since doing it once I could see doing it in 2 hours, minus the beer breaks of course. May Mr. Murphy smile on ya!!

First thing in the morning you might be getting your toes a little wet if you aint careful. But for the most part tape would work.

The last two changes I did was with Super Tech from Wally world. I would use whatever you are comfortable with. i would not be using the $25 stuff from the dealer either, I like my money to much. I am assuming you see what truck I am driving now.

I replaced my pump about 5 years ago with one from one of the chain stores. It was the weekend and I did not have much choice. But it is still working fine. As far as anti freeze, I run plain old ehtylene glycol, the green stuff. Your most likely came with it. Mine did and has been that since new. Welcome to the farm here. My experience here has been much as your's has Learned quite a bit from these folks.

It s amazing how much a little bit this will help with that. A highly accurate description!! All kidding aside, I would also like to add if anyone here or that you know is struggling with this problem, I highly recommend this procedure. It is not as bad as it sounds. My brother had it done with some minor complications. Mine has been complication free. I struggled with it much longer that I should have.

Either way I am glad to see it going your way for a change.

I did. Medically the procedure is called TURP. In layman's terms it is called Roto Rooter. I will let y'alls imaginations figure the rest out. Now the wizzer will arc again.

it was an old thing for me. But not from a small bladder but a large prostate. Could not get teacup out when there was quart in there. No fun solving that problem.

I liked it. very informative.

I looked a the Valeo a little before going with a South Bend. But I never really pursued it. I all my years here I dont know that we have discussed Valeo in any depth. Probably why no one knows much about them.

My guess would be some sort back draft damper flapping. Never had mine apart though to be of any help.

The ECM has to have something to do with it. I had the same issue with my first ECM rebuild except my light stayed on all the time but the cruise did not work. This was actually the second from the same co. The first on did not work at all a generated a 606 code where the oe did not. When I replace the second with the Cummins reman the cruise worked. Never touched the PCM. It is still the oe, I would be suspect of the rebuild. While everything but the cruise worked on mine it only lasted a year before leaving me stranded on the highway when it died. Just my personal opinion.

Thanks for the update but sorry to hear about the dialysis possibly being permanent. I am sure that just getting back Momma home is going to be a major step in the right direction. Home for me seems to cure some ills that other things cannot.

I did not see it in your list but figured is was a long shot since you replaced the unit bearings. Found my bad one when doing brakes a few months ago. stopped my clunking.

If I am not mistaken Valeo was the stock clutch manufacture for my 02. Or maybe LUK. Cant remember now. That is pretty crappy mileage on a clutch unless somebody dogged the crap of it or had a tuner on it. I was shocked my oe lasted as long as it did. 60% of its life had 75hp Banks tuner on it. But I did not tow alot with it either.

I had clunk in mine for while after changing the shocks. Turned out to be one of the front u joints. Of course i would think you would have noticed that when you did the wheel bearings. Thought it was weird that mine only clunked and did not vibrate or something while spinnig, just clunked on a bumpy road. The bearing completely gone out on cup and nothing but crumbs in the opposite one.

I hope so too. I would be interested in who you bought from and how it works out. A photo of it would be a bonus.

I understand what you are saying and Mike takes meticulous care of his truck. A whole better than I have done with mine. I think the biggest reason I have seen such longevity in a lot parts is the fact mine stays on the highway almost all the time. The most offroading I do is on the job site. I have also kept the stock size tires that came on the truck. But I have been unfortunate with my ECM leaving me earlier than most and the oe VP. that was under warranty however. A lot of factors go into parts wearing out and I do consider my self fortunate that my truck has held together as well as it has because it does not get the care Mike has put into his. And I might add that while I do to heavy I do not tow often. Depending on my job locations may 3k to 6k a year.

I can see it happening if not installed properly. i have had the clunking twice and both times the track bar was shot. The upper joint was just worn out. I guess I am putting faith in @Me78569 installing at least one of them properly.

I guess if I had replaced my track bar 3 times like @Me78569 says and still had the clunk, I might have to rule it out.

ECM and reasonable price dont normally work in the same sentence. I replaced mine with a Cummins reman for $1400 installed and program from a shop in Bolivar TN. There was thread on here a month or so ago with a source for a reman around $800 but i cant find it. Maybe some one else can. It looked like a good clean unit compared to my experience. It would come programmed and you would have to install but that is easy. Anybody know where to find that thread? The experience I had first was with an internet re builder. The Cummins reman came a year later.