dripley

Another strike against the ECM. Pretty sure the grids are ECM controlled also. Most of the situations I have read here with a delayed WTS involve all the items you are experiencing. Though for the most part all the things you are seeing usually start working when the WTS light finally illuminates. But your does not. That is a bit out of the norm but all still signs a failing ECM. I am not telling you to just drop the cash on an ECM if you have a route of borrowing one to test the theory. It would not have to be perfect match just to test the systems that are not functioning. To help you when its cold, plug it in and it will start much easier. Spent last winter in western Tennessee with family and had many cold nights up there, 20* and some lower,. I plugged it in on a timer and had it come on about 2 hours before leaving and it was always around 70* in the engine. Sure made starting an easy affair. Not to mention quick heat in the cab.

Are the grids disconnected or just not working? I disconnected mine due to one of the insulating caps on the intake had partially melted. Not sure why. Mine will start ok down to about 28 or so, below that i plug it in and it starts fine. It will start in the low twenty's but it is angry.

Does the pump have a problem? I am asking because the fuel line should not be vibrating as you describe. The fuel line might be transmitting the noise. Not sure just spit balling. If you look at the bottom of my post you will see my signature. It appears on all of my post so everyone knows what I am running. That is different from the bio. Not trying to beat you up it just helps.

On the job once and someone had a cord run out the back door of the restaurant we were building. Hollow metal door, The door closed on the cord and evidently cut into the cord and caught the hot wire. I walked up to it and grabbed it to go in and it grabbed me back. Exciting to say the least. Nice truck @jag . My second gen is turning into your 1st gen. Not sure I will ever part with it.

Welcome William. May I recommend a black shirt to go with that tie while crawling around under the mighty Cummins.

We used to wait until the electricity arched to the ground before we quit. Nothing like a old metal cased Skil Saw on a 2 prong cord to light up your life.

What kind of fuel system do you have on your truck? It would be helpful If you fill out your signature as to what truck you have and any modifications you have done to it. You can do that in your profile. That way it will appear on every post you make.

I don't remember a foam piece behind mine but I have only seen it once. Took it out and jumped the wires. The instances i have seem on the WTS light is that the truck wont start with out the light on. These folks had a delayed WTS and the engine would not fire off until it would illuminate. But you seem to have a few other strikes against the ECM. If you can borrow one to find out, thats the way to go. They are too pricey just throw at the problem. Please let us know how it works out.

Series #, so much for it being measurement. Thanks for the education.

For my education I see the u joint sizes shown here as 1350 and 1410. I am not sure what that means. I know it is a measurement but of what? Pardon my ignorance. I just bought 3 OE u joints for my drive shaft and ordered them by a part number in the part look up tool. Part # 05003146aa. 2 came in newer Mopar boxes, and one in an old Mopar box.That had a order sticker on it dated 2003. They are Spicer and appear identical except for one thing. In the center of all three on the flat is SPR flip them over and the 2 newer ones are marked P9 over HN. The one older one is marked SPR and on the flip side P9 over FG. All of the caps say Spicer. Any of that mean anything to any one?

Mine came with 265/75's and when new they are right on best I can tell. When they are about worn out I am about 1.2% off. This NOT checked with a gps but using mile markers on the interstate based on 100 mile distances. So thats not very scientific but is good enough for me and never felt I needed to do anything about it. My truck came with the 265's but the 245's were standard. If yours came with the 245's and you now have 265's that would explain it. I got this from DT and it definitely does not agree with the manual.http://www.discounttiredirect.com/direct/infoTireMath.do?gclid=Cj0KEQiAperBBRDfuMf72sr56fIBEiQAPFXszcCOGEqylankr0xVtsMfoiV6--WVDId1XH0HPKPBJ9QaAtOu8P8HAQ&cid=3898ad0a-70d2-45b5-a8fc-00138672669d&ef_id=V7E2SQAAANi@sJ8w:20161127162832:s

It is the eunuch tree.

My wife's sister and her husband lived in Cape Coral for about 3 years. There house was on one of the canals and used to take their boat out onto and around Sanibel Island, Fort Meyers beach and anywhere in the gulf to fish. Used to have a lot fun down there with them. Enjoy!!

I read since i did not know anything about it. Thought I would post for the less educated such as myself.

Well this got my curiosity up reading this. So I did a little research and cam up with this written by one of out members here a few years ago. My thanks to @KATOOM for writing and @NightHawk for sparking my interest in it. http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-powertrain/558243-wonder-what-hybrid-dana-80-read-thread.html

My 02 has a sticker in the glove that identity's my rear end as a Dana M80. Is that the Hybrid you are speaking of? I never heard that before but never looked into it. I thought came with the camper package. I can get a picture tomorrow when its a little brighter outside.

I am the opposite of you two. My brights reach way out. Almost far enough that I could stop with just my exhaust brake with in the range they have. The low beams is where I would like some improvement but also not at the expense of repairs to try it. I have after market lenses and dont know how the would hold up. Almost doubling the low bean wattage seems a little much but might be worth a shot.

That is what he said much earlier in the thread.

The ECM detects the engine rpm dropping below idle and fuels the engine to keep it there. The harder you load it the harder it fuels. Mine will pull away at idle with the 5th wheel hooked up in first without touching the throttle. The clutch safety switch doesnt have anything to do with it. It is just there to keep the engine from starting while the clutch is engaged. I jumped mine out 8 or 9 years ago. Just twist the 2 wires together. Just be careful it will start in gear then. Did that with mine once while it was in reverse. Reached in the window and cranked and off she went. Or you can just buy another one. http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2002,ram+2500+pickup,5.9l+l6+diesel+turbocharged,1440064,electrical-switch+&+relay,clutch+pedal+position+/+starter+safety+switch,16665

I am not familiar with the waterfall but am familiar with that stretch of road. My mother and her parents called Hendersonville home back in the late teens and early 20's.

Damn it ME now I am starting to hear a clunk under my passenger side now. Mostly bumping around on the job. Not so much on the road yet. Everything on my front has got little over 100k on it so maybe I am due for another rebuild. I hope I can blame this on you.

Since you are having ECM issues, malfunctioning cruise is another symptom, it is possible that the anti stall feature is not working. The ECM throttles up the engine when you let out the clutch to prevent stalling. It is possible that this part of the ECM has failed also. Not sure I have heard of that one before but I would think it is possible since you are only seeing this on launch. The AC voltage thing that @Hawkez brought up is a test to see how much AC voltage is present not DC. Your Edge will not read. It can be tested at a parts house but depending on the clerk the test can be iffy. You can check it yourself with a volt meter. There is an article here somewhere about the issue and the test. For some reason I can find it but will keep looking. There also a way to test the bulb in the cluster. I believe it is in the factory service manual. You dont take anything apart, you just run a diagnostic. I have done on mine I just dont remember how. It is very simple as I remember. Maybe someone else knows and will speak up.

You are right about the WTS. It is controlled thru the ECM and not the VP. When my ECM went it showed no codes for the ECM. Plenty of other codes for almost every sensor in the truck, but mine was undriveable. The only time I got the 606 ECM code was when I installed the newly rebuilt one. Popped a 606 code when I connected it. I did not have the problems that @Cronus577 is having with WTS and lift pump. I have seen plenty folks here with the same issues with no codes for the ECM.

Where were you at? We used to go up on Wilson's Creek and tube down it. It was quite fun but there were some pretty hairy places on it. Still have a pair glasses on the river bottom somewhere up there. Did alot of camping in Linville Gorge too. Have not been to either in years.

The reason I suggest the a code reader is to double check your EJWA. I have a San Gauge II and sometimes it does not pickup a code. My 02 will read codes with with a key on/off, key on/off, key on. It displays thru the odo. They do not always agree. I have never heard of the 3 key on/off for an APPS reset but Jacob is no dummy and he could know something I dont know for sure. What I described above is the only way I have ever done it. A VP can fail without codes, though it is rare but not unheard of. Loss of power is a symptom and also loss of fuel economy. How is your mileage? Do you run any fuel additive? Added lubricity to the fuel is quite good for the VP. I personally run TCW3 2 stroke oil. It is not the only thing out there that is good for that, just my choice. As far as mileage on the VP, I have read of them bad out of the box and others have many miles on them. Mine has 170k on it and some others here have more. So mileage is not necessarily an indicator. My OE failed at 75k.