dripley

Thats what I would think is happening.

That was my thinking also. I was trying to find a diagram that showed what happens in the head. I knew the excess flows into the return just how it was interconnected. When I bleed my system I open the lines very loose so as not to spray fuel everywhere and it just squirts out loosely and runs of the back of the engine. Barely cracked them open one time and they spray fuel all over. Did not like that very much. Thanks for helping to explain all that. Merry Christmas back at all of you.

I kept trying to find a diagram of the head to see how the excess fuel from the injection event gets to the return but never could. But if the fuel could leak out of the return in the tank all it would have to do is drain all the way to the tee and bye bye prime. Cant imagine how long it would take though. The food and the service is top notch. But dont get me wrong there are very few places I will go out of my way or wait in a long line for a sandwich. I eat out so much it does not mean much to me for the most part. Almost a necessary evil.

My thinking is flawed. You are not loosing the fuel thru the head but when the air reaches the return tee it is allow air to move into the return off of the VP. This allows the fuel to drain from the VP thru the bypass in the over flow just like a leaky return tee will do. I think I over thunk myself. @JAG1 A chicky fil a aint nothing but another building once you learn the chicken ways and build a couple few of them. I am up over 40 some of them. By far the most I have built of anything.

Somewhere the cylinder head whatever fuel is not used is returned to the fuel return line and back to the tank. So there has to be a path between the 2. When the engine is shut down all the pressure bleeds off, I figure thats when any air that gets in the head lets the fuel bleed out the overflow hence emptying the high pressure lines. I have no idea how they interconnect in the head. Been googleing with no success so far. Kind of figured @IBMobilewould have posted up a picture of chicken showing us how simple this really is.

As far as I know there is not a check valve in the oe return line. My thinking is with the return line open in the tank it could allow fuel out of the return and air in and after while it could run all the way back to the head and into the high pressure side just like a leaky tee can do on the return. Since the overflow on the VP has a small bypass it, it could drain the fuel thru that back to the tank. How long it would take I dont know. At least that is my theory anyway, Kinda like opinions, everybody has one.

Just to set the record straight, I was thinking more that the return line being above the tank level would allow the fuel to drain out of the return line back into the tank. Therefore allowing air into the high pressure side causing hard starts. You still love me Jag?

I have the same occasional idle lope as Katoom after installing my 275's. As far as the needle bounce, I have seen it since new. I added a scan gauge a couple years ago and my rpm drifts around from 798 to about 808. It is un noticeable to my ears though.

I dont think anybody with over sized tires can touch you. I would just wonder how much difference there would be between say my 2nd gen converted to 3rd gen brakes. How much weight difference between 3rd gen tires and wheels compared to 2nd gen tires and wheels with the 3rd gen tires be of the similar diameter as the 2nd gen. I know the wheels would weigh a little more but maybe the 17" tire is a little lighter? I dont know.

I know I slept thru that part of school. My millage now is pretty good even with my truck near 8k. 20 mpg on pure interstate runs and a couple runs a little over 20. That is on 265's the truck came with.

My AD came with a piece of flex tube for the fuel pick up. Looks the same as the return but larger as I remember. Maybe they have some 5/16's.

so are the calipers the same? I know the late model 2nd gens have two plungers versus the single on the earlier ones.

it happens to the best of us. That might a while, like maybe a long while. any reason not to believe them?

What is the cheater bar, the larger rotors?

I would think any fuel compatible 5/16 hose ought to work. Your just trying to get it to the bottom of basket.

You might be on to something. If that return gets uncovered it could let the fuel drain out of it while sitting. Both my returns go back to the fuel canister but i can't for the life of me remember how far down I put them. Must be low because I dont have the hard start issues.

I used the term plastic loosely. More nylon like than plastic but not sure what it is made actually. His site says plastic that can withstand 600* F. He also has good instructions there now. I dont remember them back in 09. Of course there are alot things I dont remember from back in 09.

Mine was a Blue chip product and not BD. It is plastic like the BD but white in color. When I installed it I thought you would feel it snug up but since it it cutting it's own threads I never could tell a difference. It was not till later I thought about checking the voltage while tightening. Looks like BD has it covered well.

I got the stealth cover from Blue Chip when I bought my pump. The only thing I did not like was knowing how tight to tighten the screw, because you can go to far. I suppose you would just tighten it until you see 12v on it. Was not that smart back then. I was just starting to learn idiosyncrasies of the 24 valve at that time.

I have both and expensive and what I bought dont go together.

I am really surprised that Quadzilla does not even mention the use of a boost elbow. Seems it would benefit their product. I agree with @Me78569 on the boost leaks. You probably have them after all these years. I know I do. Small ones but they add up. Just want to be sure I read right. You would benefit from a boost elbow but you already have a waste gate if you are thinking you need one. this is a great place for learning. Lord know I have done my share while being here. It is a great place..

Does Quadzilla not mention the need for a boost elbow in there instructions? My Comp came with one and the Banks system I put on back in 05 came with a new exhaust housing with a waste gate that opens around 33 #'s. Thats what is currently on my truck now so I did not need one.

Checking for boost leaks is the right way to go but I doubt you will see above 20 with the stock waste gate and no boost elbow.

I know where you are coming from. Just adding it to the want to list. Got some oil leaks ahead of that one.

When you installed your Raptor did you bypass or remove the in tank pump? I have a mechanical FP gauge and install the line for it after my filters so if they start to clog I can see it in lower pressure. I also used this between the filter canister and the VP.http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Universal-Big-Line-Filter-to-Injection-Pump-Kit-w-p/ffip59.htm. Vulcan has most anything you need fuel related.No matter how you do it get that pressure gauge up and running. Your VP will love you for it.