dripley

Where is Orville and Wilbur when you need them?

Speaking as a reader of this thread, if I install the Quad would I loose the factory anti stall? I only ask since over the past 15 years I have grown accustom to it. If it were no longer there I would have to relearn launches like I had to do when I bought it. While not a deal breaker it would be a re learner on driving. The anti stall took some getting used to when I bought the truck. I have become quite used to it.

Not trying to beat a dead horse here, but if you had the truck plugged in for 6 hours and it still would not start, the block heater still has a problem. Even at -10 in 6 hours the heater should bring the block temp up near freezing. Mine will start with out the grids at 20+ mostly on the first turn of the key. It is angry but it starts.

I will be following this since I am the owner of my third lifetime warranty alternator. Bought the first one about 7 or 8 years ago. I do test for ac voltage but no where near as often as I should. I have been eyeing the Nations from reviews here. Tis is just another plus for them. I am curious why you went with the oem pulley versus the smaller one? Not critiquing your choice just curious.

He started in a low voice and hit the high notes well and then when music cranks u[ he came out with that raspy voice during all that. Then finished back where he started from. It was not what I expected when I saw him. I was almost expecting a some heavy metal in there somewhere. Got a little from the voice but it melded with the music quite well. Tell your wife she has good taste. That from a NC hillbilly.

Speaking as someone who saw S&G sing that on the Ed Sullivan Show back in the 60's, he did the song quite well. I too have always liked this song. I turn up the radio anytime I hear it. He has wide range on the vocals. Great rendition of an old song.

The video looked like mine starting at 15 above with no grids or being plugged in except mine hit on the second try. Had the grids been connected I would of expected to fire right off. The link was working this morning.

Possibly the block heater is not working. I would think if it was plugged in for 6 hours the coolant would have been above freezing at least. Not sure what temp difference there is at -10. Did you happen to notice your coolant temp after starting? Were the grid heaters working? The link to the video didn't work.

mostly cloudy here. Got some family here and we are low key, but a good day. Merry Christmas to you all.

My temp sensor has gone whacky, but I am pretty sure mine is a wiring issue. Just jumps all over the place with 100* swings. Seems to happen more on the highway than anywhere else. Still happens in town but not near as bad. Thought it had something to do with the surging I was experiencing but dont think so. thinking more on the connector that is hanging in the wind at the tranny.

I did a little looking around and did not see anything definite about legality. Sounds like some more searching is in order. I guess until mine starts giving me trouble I will stick with what I have too. In the 6 or 7 years I have had the AD I have never heard it run except when the engine was off. I know my ears aren't what they used to be but I still cant hear it unless I get under the truck.

I cant help with the Adrenaline, but it would be good to turn your FP up a little more. It is best to see 14psi minimum at WOT. That keeps max fuel flowing thru the pump for cooling. The fuel also lubes the pumps. A lot of us here run two cycle oil to help the ULSD with that. Your VP will appreciate it.

18.5 at idle and 15 at wot. I do have quick disconnect on the top of the fuel tank and at the pump. I did however forget that the AD is suppose to remove the air. The miss is so seldom and so intermittent it doesn't really bother me. Several months back it was bothersome, Happened almost every time I matted it, but it went away. I have just recently noticed it happening again. And no I have not disconnected the Comp to see what happens. If it gets worse I would try that.

Did this start after the VP install? If so might it be possible that you installed the wrong key? They are different from pump to pump.

FWIW I have JIC's, pushloc's, and AD quick disconnects. So far no leaks in any for the past 6 years. Outward leaks anyway. Might possibly have a small suction leak. Every so often I get very intermittent miss under hard throttle.

If you are getting fuel to 3 and 4 close them. Might be the first cylinders getting fuel. Once it kicks off the pump will get fuel to the others. Like mentioned above it will run rough until they all start getting fuel.

I wonder if it might have something to do with the 02 auto truck having the vacuum assisted cruise versus the 02 manual being fly by wire. Which system are you using now?

Welcome to the site. Glad your install went well. I have had the steady light problem on a rebuilt ECM several years ago. The light stayed on but the cruise did not work. That did fail completely later and a reman from Cummins fixed it. I am not telling that is your problem and replace it, just relaying my experience. There are others here more knowledgeable of such things than me. ECM's are tricky to diagnose. Have you spoken to Smarty about the issue with the cruise? The $Mopar apps sucks price wise. Especially when all you need is the sensor and not the bell crank it comes on. Did you let the ECM re learn the apps after install? After reconnecting the batteries you just turn the key on, slowly depress the throttle and slowly release. Turn the key off and your done. Might be your surging issue. Again, welcome and some more electronically inclined folks should be along.

That would be one of our typical but few snow falls, mostly straight down and little breezy. 6" deep, pretty big. 2 consecutive days of snow unusual. Your temps and 50 mph winds you can have. My system aint up to it. If you get up early in the morning when snows around here while all is quiet you can hear the snow fall. It is really quite the sight, very beautiful. I am glad it does not hang around for too long.

it seems I here a lot from you fellas about how you miss cold winters and the snow. You stayed in Florida just long enough it seems.

I guess I am confused then. On page 2 you said that you redid the test and it ran fine hot wired. Did I miss something between then and now?

Vulcan has a JIC to push lock 90. I could not find a straight push lock 90, only combos.

Glad to see you did not float away when tide went back out. Been cold out here on the east coast but nothing like the folks north of you. Just dealing with the mud on the job from the little rain showers every week or so. All is pretty normal for this time of the year except for some cold weather.

Is the sensor and the pedal made as an assembly where both have to be replaced?

The pump can fail with out a code. It is very unusual however from what I have read. You did do the hot wire test and it seemed to work. That test is suppose to eliminate the pump as the issue. I going back to something that @JAG1pointed out. The volt meter was reading pretty normal in the first video but looked out wack in the second one almost like the grids were running. Your coolant temp looked high enough for them not to be. How does the voltage look with everything hooked normally and warm? Low voltage will make these trucks do weird things.