dripley

Your stock turbo ought to make about 20 psi. You will need the boost elbow to get to 35. If you are only making 12psi now you definitely have a leak or your waste gate is sticky and not closing all the way. You will see your max boost under load. Free revving the engine does to produce any boost

And it is the only way we can make them disappear!!!!!!!

The pieces I have used hold up fine. I guess they are drying almost as fast as they get wet. you can definitely tell they do get wet but I have never had one come apart. Finding a replacement piece on the job is easy anyway. Mine will still bust off at 30 very quickly though it does sound like the starter is turning slower. It is hard to tell though since i starts so quickly but the starter does sound different when its that cold.

There you go getting sophisticated on us. Just kidding AH. That would be a good option for me or anyone who experiences cold am and warmer pm conditions. Easy to open of close the flaps. You just have to remember it is on there before you go towing. Sometimes my memory is not so good.

I dont disagree with what you are saying at all. If I know I am going to be somewhere it is going to be cold both night and day I will use my fronts but around here you might be winter in the am and spring in the pm. When using the card board I dont block off the whole radiator maybe 3/4 of it.

Things go boom!!!!! At least I found out how easy it is to change a radiator. Already knew it would be no fun buying it. I went back to this method too. Easy in, easy out.

I have some winter fronts but dont use them alot unless I am somewhere where it stays cold. Even some of 20* weather overnight can turn into 50*+ weather in the pm here in the SE. When I blew my radiator I had them from a stretch of cold weather and that day turned into a 50* day. Of course I was pulling the 5th wheel up a 6% grade and dogging pretty hard. Forgot they were in. Sometimes you reap what sow.

My truck will start fine in 30 to 40 degree weather with no help so 60 to 70 on a 20* day is just gravy. I just dont see any need to get it up to 80 or 90 or even higher.

Will the rubber withstand the heat or do you have to take it apart?

I had been on their site before looking at ball joints. Never could convince myself the ones I was seeing were what I wanted. Never looked at ujoints. When you brought them up I went over there again for the hell of it and went straight to the ujoint I had been looking for half the price.They appear to be the same. Its only money I guess.

I plugged mine in a good bit last winter but never saw temps that high. Mine was usually in the 60* to 70* range. Started great even in the teens. I let it come on about 2 hours before leaving. Worked great for me.

my grids are disconnected at the moment. When the temps get to near 20 I plug it in on a timer that comes on about 1.5 hours before I leave and works fine. No timer and it stays on all night. Wasted power bill.

I bought the oe non greasable Spicer's in a mopar box. New old stock on ebay. $50 buck apiece. Now to find the center bearing. I am a fan of not having to grease anything. The old ones have lasted darn near 400k so me thinks as long as they are actually the same I cant go wrong. I have a vibration around 70 mph but am thinking it is probably tire related. It was not there when they were new. I am getting them rotated and balance Saturday see what happens.

Hmmmmm!!!

I might have to be digging into mine again in the near future. I am going to look into some new old stock on them. Found my ujoints that way. I used the parts look up tool for the part #'s. I appreciate the effort you put into that. Alot of my OE parts lasted a long time and I am wanting to duplicate that. I really only want to tackle this one more time.

Looks like the Batmobile. I had a 68 dodge 4 door Monaco with the 383 2 bbl. Car had some iron in it for sure but that engine let haul the mail. Loved that car and it only cost me about $400 bucks back in 74 or so. Sold it about 2 years later for $200. Are you going to pull your Barricuda with it?

I have pretty well decided to do my shaft except for the carrier bearing. I have a press to do the joints, just dont want to use the BFH on the carrier. And I need to rebalance it any way. Mine all seems tight but I have small vibration at 70 mph that I cant make go away. Plus at 390k I have my money out of the oe stuff.

Sounds like you will feel right at home. But I would bet you are going to miss the view and the sun from Cape Coral.

Drive shaft maybe. Had an old 68 Falcon that did that and nobody could figure it out until the drive shaft fell out. Lost the front yoke or u joint not sure which now. That was back in 1969, my first car.

Princess, now that is "sweet" as they say. Mike "The Princess" Nelson. @Taz you gotta be proud!! You can't make this s**t up.

The only thing missing is the purple, sorry MAROON one covered in mud!!!!

Those dont look like your pizza cutters. Did you change your tires?

Another strike against the ECM. Pretty sure the grids are ECM controlled also. Most of the situations I have read here with a delayed WTS involve all the items you are experiencing. Though for the most part all the things you are seeing usually start working when the WTS light finally illuminates. But your does not. That is a bit out of the norm but all still signs a failing ECM. I am not telling you to just drop the cash on an ECM if you have a route of borrowing one to test the theory. It would not have to be perfect match just to test the systems that are not functioning. To help you when its cold, plug it in and it will start much easier. Spent last winter in western Tennessee with family and had many cold nights up there, 20* and some lower,. I plugged it in on a timer and had it come on about 2 hours before leaving and it was always around 70* in the engine. Sure made starting an easy affair. Not to mention quick heat in the cab.

Are the grids disconnected or just not working? I disconnected mine due to one of the insulating caps on the intake had partially melted. Not sure why. Mine will start ok down to about 28 or so, below that i plug it in and it starts fine. It will start in the low twenty's but it is angry.

Does the pump have a problem? I am asking because the fuel line should not be vibrating as you describe. The fuel line might be transmitting the noise. Not sure just spit balling. If you look at the bottom of my post you will see my signature. It appears on all of my post so everyone knows what I am running. That is different from the bio. Not trying to beat you up it just helps.