dripley

I am saving up for the eclipse!!!!!

I did not. by any means. I too was into a twelve pack after the drive home and no insult was taken nor did I think one was implied. I was looking for a new emoticon and just made up the stick poking monkey thing. All in fun my friend. That was how I meant my response and took yours.

I dont remember mine ever having a clunk until a little over a year ago after replacing the front shocks. Might be off on the time but even just before I rebuilt my front end I never heard a clunk. The clunk is only recent to mine so not sure what the cause is. So rasberry to you, ya stick pokin monkey!!!!!!!!!!!!

I dont think it is a common failure on trucks like ours @JAG1. Maybe with jacked up twins it is, but not ours. Dont know for sure.

I am a firm believer in the one trip thing, but that is out of the ordinary for me there. Liking it though.

When I installed my ball joints, Moog, their add and many others said the uppers would have some up and down movement. They said nothing about the lowers. I would think that there would have to some give in one of them to make up for differences in the associated parts they joinl I never noticed a clunk in mine until I put the cheap Monroe shocks on mine. After replacing my front u joints the clunk seemed to go away but it is returning. I am leaning towards shocks on mine.

That sucks. Better luck in the future.

Not to mention if you start cutting up the wiring harness and are electronically challenged as I am, you pen yourself up for different problems down the road. My ECM failed many years ago and the trouble codes were no help. When it went it spit out codes left and right for every system in truck but the ECM. A new fixed it. You do seem to have warning signs of yours failing. Might last a year or a day who knows. While these truck do have short comings like any other vehicle, mine has been very reliable. In 15 years mine has only left me stranded three, failed ECM, failed lift pump and a blown radiator. I did loose 4th gear out of the oem tranny but it got me home for the repair. The ecm and the lift pump were expensive repairs, but I learned alot from them and finding this site. Knowledge of the vehicle is priceless and having the help I received here has kept me on the road for 390k with much more to come.

According to this you dont have to have a license if the guide lines listed for recreational are met. https://www.faa.gov/uas/faqs/#ffr

Waste gate stuck open? You could put 20 or so psi on it and check. I dont think that would set a code.

long beds have the 35 gallon tank and short beds have a 34 i believe. my long is definitely 35. My gauge is similar to the above 3/4 tank is a bout 2/3rds, half is about a 1/3rd left. Takes for ever to move off of full. When it was new it was the opposite. Used to be when it hit the low fuel light I could drive 100+ miles before filling. That all changed with the in tank pump install. Just went the other way. But it is always the same. It being accurate on gallons never bothered me. I still know how much fuel I have. Now when the light comes on I have maybe 50 miles to go, about 3 gallons. I really thought I was getting some good mileage after the pump change.

you mean to tell me that in Cali they have done a study on whether to breathe exhaust gases directly from the exhaust pipe of vhicle.and found that to be harmful;l? Kind of like the one our gov did on how would a 2k # car would do in a collision with a 7k # truck. Car usually looses. Several cases like that on Mr Earp.

Check your fuse with the volt meter just to eliminate it. I would think it is on a circuit of its own. could be wrong though.

Pretty cool. Got my stock 02 beat. Not sure what it is now. I also don't think my butt dyno has a print out. If it did it would say 800hp and 1500 #'s of torque at 1500 rpm.. All on RV 275's!!!!!

FWIW i have been using the Wally world ATF4 for the past few years. The price is good and it it should meet the specs for ATF4. So far so good. I have met 2 dirt men working for me who use Super tech 15 40 for all their equipment in the past couple years. It does meet the same specs as other oils. But I have no idea of what the additive package is for the oil. So there is most likely some differences I do not know about.

I bought an aftermarket oem style made by Eagle Eyes. Cant remember where though. $75.00 with the oe bulbs. The work fine for me and the only problem I had was the left one, I had to really adjust it it to get the light to light up the road and not the shoulder. Not sure what was wrong. If you want both high and low beams on at the same time it requires something extra. I know there was product out called Brite Box just for that purpose. Never felt the need for both myself.

I am trying to figure out which one is exaggerating. @JAG1 says he want drink all the coffee and @IBMobile says he wont drink all the beer. There is something wrong with both those statements.

A never ending supply.

The joints are sitting in a box next to my chair. So I am pretty well committed to just building what is there.

I have a couple of BFH's. Mines coming soon I think.

I enjoy the snow on occasions and when I dont have to work in it. Just adds a whole other dimension to what can be a difficult job anyway. Plus I aint used to it in the least.

DAP used to do it and it appears they still do.http://dieselautopower.com/smarty-s-03-rental-sr-s03a/

Good to hear. Did you use the oven trick on the carrier bearing? Whats the trick to getting it off?

19.9 at 75 is pretty darn good mileage. My HO 4X4 with 3.55 will barely do that. What size tires are you running?