dripley

I had forgotten about the hard starts, but was only speaking of the growing oil. Point taken.

If they were working fine but the oil was growing it could just be a bad O ring on the injector. I had the same issue 5 or so years ago. Put in a set of DAP's version of rv 275's and the are still going strong. I never had the stockers checked out, just used it as an excuse to go bigger.

I agree with @Hawkez on the ECM. Pretty pricey part to just throw on and hope it fixes it. Is your WTS light delayed in coming on? A few post back you mentioned that you pulled a relay and then turned the key and the WTS light came on and it fired right up. Which relay did you pull?

That is the same way mine connected. I only asked because I thought it help those that know how to answer your question. I cannot.

Does it plug into the TPS? The banks ottomind I installed in 2005 plugged the MAP and TPS. Did not know what the data link was until I got the COMP.

I use a needle valve on my 1/8" line and have had no needle bounce in the 6 or so years it has been in the truck. When @Dieselfuture mentioned a "Niddle" valve I had to re read it. Just thought he miss spelled "needle". Then what do I see but a picture of a Niddle valve. So I have learned something today.

While I dont think tires are the primary reason they at least have contributed to my experience. When it first happened me my tires were about shot. My track was getting worn and a little loose but with new tires it stopped and never happened again until the next set were on their last leg. This was after I replaced the track. I dont disagree with @hex0rz on worn suspension parts, but old tires seems to bring mine on. Maybe it is the ATP's, dont know.

I believe that would be the clamp that holds the end of the shock to be sure you have adjusted properly so does not over or under extend for lack of a better term. Wouldn't want to rip its guts out.

A leaky return line will cause hard starts. It allows air into the fuel system allowing the fuel to flow back to the tank. It should not have anything to do with the engine shutting down at temp.

I did a little looking a round and the only one I found was $460 for a used one. I cant get into that. Probably need to do a little inspecting of the one I own. I could sell it and have enough money to do what the other fellow did and have some extra cash.

I have to agree but I have never heard of this being a problem. Evidently the poster did have and found a reasonable solution. Is this a problem you have seen in other forums?

Quite the story. Good to see that setbacks turned out so well and you kept up your spirits thru it all.Having good friends like Mike helps. I like you grew up with my mom's mom, Bubby is what we all called her. She lived with us right into high school. Being born in 1880, she had a different perspective of looking at things than I. I do sorely wish I could make the journey you did and see Bubby again.

My 02 has a tag in the glove box the lists both the front and rear diffs that came on the truck. Maybe the 03 does also.

You could just hot wire the lift pump, not the VP, from the battery to see if stays running. You also need to know if that pump is putting out any pressure while it is running. You can hook a test gauge to the shrader valve on the VP inlet to test it. Not sure if you have already tried this.

Looks like a lot more folks are making APPS sensors there also. I bought a cheap one on ebay to try it and it works but throws a constant 222 code. The instructions were mainly in Chinese I think.

Thanks for the education there Bill. That was interesting.

I have been waiting to hear the rest of the story myself. I am sure you will do it just fine.

I think first, for the 1689, I would check your ECM and VP wiring connectors and be sure they are clean and tight. Some dielctric grease on the connectors will help protect them from future corrosion. The 1690 is pointing to the cam shaft positioning sensor. A bad one will make the truck run rough. It is not expensive but is located behind the VP. I have heard of folks replacing with the vp on but is back there pretty good. It is possible your VP computer has failed. But dont condemn it on the one code. The above measures are cheaper to try without throwing expensive parts at the problem. It never hurts to clean up all of your ground connection also. If you look under the articles tab at the top of the age, 2nd gen, engine, then OBD codes you find the codes listed with diagnostic info. As a member of the electrically challenged here others should weigh in on the subject also.

I have run plain old ethylene glycol in mine since it was new. I dont have creek water like Mike but have used the well water at home the whole time. I did loose a radiator around 250k. Got a pretty good view of the old ones inards.

Ceramisized seems to be a new word for spell check too. So if you cant take the heat of the fire get the heck out of the kitchen.

The fuel filter changes on my 2nd gen are the same color but i do not remember any oily look on my finger like you show.

You only need to unbolt the cushion from the seat for sure. I swapped the passenger and the driver's seat in about 15 minutes with out removing the seats from the truck. Could have been 45 minutes, I did not count.

It will open it up from stock but is not 1/2" thru all of the connections. But the inlet into the VP is not either. You will have good fuel flow using the big line kit. DAP has one also but I think it is the same kit.

Good luck on your endeavor. Keep as much of your money in your pocket as you can. And may DW not visit your ride again.