dripley

I have never been able to determine that delivery/curb/brochure weight even includes the furniture, tv and such. As far as the tires go even though they rate at a total of 15840#, my axles are only rated at 7k each'

Maybe it was a Kalashnikov Motors truck????

Beware that the Chickapocalypse. I would run and hide or set the table. I can smell the charcoal already.

Here is the link for the tire http://www.carlstargroup.com/product/tires/trailers-toy-haulers-towables/radial-trail-rh. I was a little off on the tire pressure. 95 instead of 90. And there is a note that says the PSI shown is the recommended PSI. I have run these at a lower psi based on 12k to 12.5k on the axles, around 85 psi. On that trip I was running 65 to 70 mph on the interstate.I was trying to stay around 2k rpm but since have found the truck pulls just as good at 1850 as it does at 2k. Thanks for slowing me down because I used tow 70 to 75. My old tires had about 3 to 3.5 years on them and that is the best I seem to be able to get out of a set of tires, ST or LT. So far I have 3.5 years on these and they still seem fine, but so did all my others. My next trip will tell.

HEY HEY, be careful with my bothers and sisters there. They try to live a clean life just to make it to your grill. CHICKENS UNITE!!!!!!!!!!!

Just to stir the pot on tire ratings. I had to buy my last set under duress. Lost one with 2 more on the way out on a Sunday drive back home from Iowa I believe. I ended up with a set a Carlisle Dura Trac. It was the quickest I could get my hands on at the time. I asked about the load rating and all seemed fine. Upon further inspection they turned out to be load range F tires and not G's. But the load rating on them are 3960# at 90 psi. As I remember my G's were all rated around 3750# at 110 psi or there abouts. Not sure what to think of that but they have held up better than anything I have run on this trailer.

Not sure how to look at mine. I paid 33k for it back in 01. The only big issues I had was losing the VP at 75k under warranty and then the lift pump around 150k not under warranty, $1000 for that. No other issues until 217k. That was 8 years into ownership. I have always thought I got my moneys worth out of that 8 years Now at 215k I lost both front wheel bearings. That was my first introduction into pricey parts. Got all that fixed and lost the ECM at 217k. Not sure "pricey" is an accurate term for that one. Then around 230k a VP and at 255 tranny. That was the worst 2 years I owned the truck. All big ticket stuff there. This really had me thinking of getting a new one. Now here 5 years and 8 months later the worst thing that has happened is replacing the clutch that failed prematurely and an AD fuel system. Not to bad a pill to swallow as above. But none the less unexpected. I did not include things like brakes, ball joints, TRE's, and all the other things that just wear out. Just a cost of ownership. I also left out any performance things, exhaust break, and such because I did not have to have them, just wanted them. All in all after 15 years and 8 months it is probably the best automotive money I have ever spent. To @The_Hammer that 12v is pretty but pricey.

Bought mine in october of 01, a year earlier, and I am not done with it yet by any means. I would like to see the 500k mark. Might be difficult if I do retire at 66 but 400k is just over the horizon.

I have looked at both in the past and seem to see about as much good and bad about both. So if I had to choose one I would probably just go with the cheaper of the two or maybe rebuild mine if I had the time.

At least you found the problem.

Well I guess I should have paid better attention. I didnt remember a lifetime warranty. A for me. Looked the warranty up on Rock Auto and they have a manufacturer rebate for Monroe and Rancho on the same form. Monroe makes Rancho or visa versa? If I read the warranty right on the cheapy Monroe's there is no warranty. WTF

An obese road. I ran rancho 5000. They worked well and I liked them but after 50k they were shot. I ended up putting a cheap set of Monroe's on and they work good but ride pretty hard. Not expecting great mileage since the whole set only cost about $90.

I bet he cant hide in the dark anymore.

This is to much like a delayed WTS. It has to be related to that.

Just so I understand you pulled the relay and just turned the key on, then replaced the relay and started the truck? All this on a cold engine.

That is what I was trying to ask you. Couldn't get the words out right though. No way it is loosing prime that quickly.

Never used one. I just toss mine in the bed(mainly to save my shin bones) and have not lost one yet. Maybe I am just lucky.

I am assuming that you are getting no power from the ecm to trigger the fass relay until you see the pressure move. Does this repeat itself on the next start? By that I mean not letting it sit for long. If you were losing prime and not seeing any fuel leaking, it would take a while for it leak down. I am definitely not the electronics expert around here but I would think at key on and the ecm boots up that it is looking for signals from many sources for engine start up. I would think that seeing that the lift pump is operating would be a prime issue for start up.

In the Walmart's out this way the Rotella in 5 gallon buckets always cost more per gallon than buying one gallon jugs. Bought some Delo here at home the other week and they did not even have the 2.5 gallon jugs.

The RV's themselves will give you a nice little bump in power and MPG. I drove my truck with just them for a little over 2 years and was quite happy with. Did better than I thought DD and towing. But now with the Comp on it stock sure is tame. I also would not just change the pump with no symptoms other than the mpg being off a little.

If you are lucky the relay in the Fass might be the same as the ones in the PDC and you could swap and see it the problem persists or moves with the relay.

I do travel dry except for a few gallons in the gray and black tanks. Some slosh in there will help keep them clean. I do carry about 15 gallons of fresh water for emergencies. I did make the mistake along time ago of leaving all the tanks open while parked. Was not much fun dealing with the poo pile. I myself would not purposely travel with the holding tanks full. But if you are dry camping there is not much choice. A good while back you could still find some places that let you dump your gray right on the ground. Have not seen that in long time though. @Mopar1973Man I have slowed down a little over the years. Not as much as you though. I try and keep it 65 and below.

Is your WTS delayed also? That would be another sign pointing to the ECM. From your description it does sound more electronics related than mechanical. Never hurts to check some of the simpler mechanical stuff though.

The VP will appear to run fine on to low or to high a pressure. My AD lift pump went out, blew a fuse, and I drove for 60 or more miles with no issues. My oe lift pump went out and the truck just died. My oe VP went out at 75k, loss of power and RPM's but blue smoke and not black. Not sure what was going on and was to naive ti ask. I have to assume from your post that you got you FP gauge or at least a test gauge to read pressure, you are using a code reader for checking and clearing codes and the waste gate is functioning properly with air pressure. What fuel pressure are you seeing at WOT? If you can warranty the pump and go thru the expense to see it that fixes it, by all means go ahead. Let us know how that works.

With a small air leak the engine is always going the be cold for it to happen. It could take several hours for it to leak down enough to cause the hard starting. It is also possible for air to leak in and fuel to NOT leak out.