dripley

If you dont need or want the extra gear stay with the 5 speed. just my opinion.

I am no tranny guy and could not answer the question. i lost 4th gear in my OE tranny and started thinking about rebuilding. But after seeing what is inside that tranny i changed my mind. I understand that you have to have a 75 or 100 ton press for a couple of the bearings and the gear train in that thing is way over my head. There was a thread on CF of a guy the pulled his apart and I was astonished at what was in there. i am not trying to discourage you at all, go for it if you can. I have done alot to my truck that i would not have done if it was not for this forum. I might tackle a 5 speed but not my 6 speed. I ended up buying one from a junk yard. Supposedly with only 54k on it after i lost 4th. it has and still serves me well. it cost me $2500. I am not advising either way on what to do, just expressing my experience. By the way it is still going strong 100k miles later.

have you checked for trouble codes? The bucking and such could easily be tied to something else. I had a similar issue years back and fuel pressure was the culprit.

I have never had any trouble shifting mine 5600. Notchey is not a term I would use either. I can get thru them quickly if I want to except for the occasional 5th gear hiccup. i never had the Cummins with the 5 speed but I would have to agree with John on the fun part. My 96 had the 5 speed hooked up with a V10 and it was fun empty. It had a lot range in the gears with the wider rpm range.

what would you be looking for on the valve cover? I never looked at an SO to know the difference.

Might look at your tappet cover while you are in there. I knew mine was leaking and also thought the pumps were leaking. It all turned out to be the tappet cover by itself.

Mine are just clamped together and i can still take them out as one piece and they stay together. The 4' pipe is a good idea however.

mine is blue over silver. The blue is on the door jambs and the threshold. The silver comes up to the tops of the rocker panels under the doors but not into the cab anywhere.

I also filled up on the 8-1 near Moody Al off of I 20 for 2.39 a gallon. I believe in helping local business but at 60 cents a gallon more I might have to rethink.

I used a part from theses folks https://heatertreater.net/. I dont know how the 2 compare.

Muscle Shoals. You must be in the most expensive part of Alabama. It is only about $2.60 in NC.

Kind of reminds of wood and a screaming beaver as I recall. Feel the love, Mikey!!!

I have the ADII 165. Installed it about 5 years ago. The pump started popping fuses about 6 months ago and I had to replace. I called them up and they sent me a new no questions asked. It has been running fine but still worries me a little.

I could see that being a problem and the only reason I bought this one was the price. I paid 80 bucks for it.

I was driving to town here in Alabama on a 4 lane divided highway with cut thrus in the median for left turns. The speed limit was 65. I see a small 2 door coming from the opposite direction slowing down to make a left. At the last second he makes the turn, comes across my travel lanes on a 45* angle and passes me in my emergency lane all to get into a parking lot that did not line up with his cut thru. About the most idiotic thing i have seen any one do in a long time. For a lit second I thought should just run over him instead of putting the brakes on.

Well said and very true. The more Mike has advanced the site the more it cost.

Whats up with the fuel prices out west. I have not seen diesel less than gas in 8 or 10 years. The cheapest I have seen in Alabama is one station 87 UL 2.15 and B-15 diesel 2.35. Back home in NC they are both about 30 cents higher.

No. The sealing washers on the return fitting on the back of the head.

I used the LMC Truck dash pad. Color and fit were great. It list for $259.95. There is a large part charge and shipping. Still might be a little cheaper than Geno's. Chec them out. http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/de/full.aspx?Page=37

I have one of those HF tranny jacks described. Except for the forward to back tilt being difficult to turn it handled my NV5600 at near 400# fine. It would not be something I would want to use everyday for a living, but served me well the one time I used it. I have to put in a new clutch soon so I will be breaking it out again. Got lucky on mine and found it on Craigs list at half retail and it had hardly been used.

I am assuming the Mike means that it can bleed thru the hole. It is the only way my explanation makes any sense. I know in my case when i replaced the o rings and sealing washer the hard start issue stopped. So there has to be a way for the fuel to drain from the HP side thru the return. My problem was definitely not as bad as what Hex is experiencing. Hex, any progress with your problem?

348k on my oe box. Loosing a track bar and lower ball join though. Replaced those about 100k ago. Looks like I might have to do it again soon.

The way I saw when I had the leaky tee and fitting was like this. After engine shutdown the leaky parts were allowing air into the return lines and letting the fuel drain back into the tank thru the return line. When the return line emptied it was allowing fuel from the high pressure side of the VP to leak back thru the return by gravity. It would not make any difference with the supply being submerged or not. All the air coming in and fuel draining back was coming from the return.

I finally made my trip with the RV in tow. Only problem was when I stopped in GA to fill up they had straight #2. It appears Loves does not use the bio blend in GA. Anyway I made the trip differently than I normally would. I drove 65 all the way in 5th instead of using OD. My mileage worked out to 10.15 mpg, about the same as I would have seen using OD. The biggest difference I experienced was a drop in trans temp from 215* in OD versus 195* in 5th. It also took near 100 miles for it to creep up to that temp and level off. Maybe next time I will get to used bio to see if there is any difference. I did use 2 stroke in the tank, about 33 oz's. The weird thing happened on the way to AL from home empty. I stopped in Charleston TN at a Loves and this one had BIO BLEND and not BIO MASS. I have read enough to know there is a difference, but little enough to quite understand it. They seem to over lap somewhat, but are definitely labeled differently. I drove from Charleston TN to Muscle Shoals AL and then from Muscle shoals to Thomson GA for a total 660 miles. I drove 5% city, 35% at 65 to 70 mph, and 60% at 75 to 80 mph. This is pretty normal driving for me. I put in 33.5 gallons and at 660 miles the mileage came up to 19.7 mpg. I have never seen that kind of mileage without driving 65 or less which is very abnormal for me. This was weird and had I not been there myself I would call BS on myself. I am going to try a duplicate the trip soon and check my odo to the mile markers and see how closely they match. I check it in 50 or 100 mile increments. The last time I checked, a few years ago, it was off by 1/2 of 1%, .005%. Nothing else is different on the truck other than the fuel. May be a fluke I don't know. The truck does run quieter.

My return tee o rings and the sealing washer on the back of the head were all leaking and it did cause hard starts for me. Not to the degree Hex is seeing however. Sometimes it would only take one cycle with the lift pump and sometimes more, just depended on how long it sat. I never had to open the injectors to get it started. All I could figure is that air got in and let the fuel back to the tank and took some of the fuel out of the high pressure lines. I do know when I replaced the leaky parts the problem went away.