dripley

You have to tell how you are turning so low an rpm at 70 mph. How much bigger are you tires than mine? I have the same gears on 265 75r 16's and turn 2k at 70 mph.

Mine went out about 6 months ago and they sent me a new one even though my warranty info was at home and I was not. They questioned me a little then asked where to send it to. But if you dont send the warranty card in, thats a different story.

Looks like something good came out of the K&N set up. It does look good. I ran a K&N for quite a while in the stock filter box. Had a little oil in my turbo mostly on the blades. Nothing like what you had though.

Be sure and get a fp gauge on it. Even the FRRP does not have a great reputation. For that matter AD's reputation has suffered a lot in the past several years. I take you bought the original?

If you pull the clock spring be sure the center of it does not rotate much. It should go back in the way it comes out. You can tape it in place to keep it from rotating or just be careful it does not rotate.

In NC we get a new sticker every year with the year on it. It is color coded also. My tag was on my 96 for 4 years and I swapped it to the 02. the stickers are about a quarter inch thick. Got to scrape them of next year and thin it down. i cant believe after all the pics i seen of your truck that I never noticed what is says on your plate. Good job on the sensors!!

Utah, If you dont have an actuator then the problem is probably in the ECM or wiring/connector I dont know. Here is to hoping you have an actuator. When my ECM went out and I bought a rebuild off the internet, the second one they sent, the light would come on but no cruise. Drove it that way for a year until that one crapped out and I had to buy on from Cummins. solved the cruise proble but hurt the wallet.

The OP has a 01 manual that is why I brought it up. so he is not looking for something that might not be on his truck. i struggle with some things on mine and looking for something that is not there would have me .

If it is fly by wire there would not be an actuator. Mine is fly by wire and no actuator. Strictly thru the ECM. Mine is an 02 manual, the autos came with the actuator. But it could be different in the 01. Not sure when they changed other than late model 2nd gens.

I lived in Atlanta for 9 years and left in 92. There were 1 million people living in the Atlanta area then and there are now over 3.5 million people there. I do not miss it one bit. I dont even like driving thru on trips home. The only place I have seen worse is the Northern Virginia/DC area. It is can be like Atlanta on steroids at times.

One more question, Does it really say Famous Potatoes on it? If it does Mike has some "splainin" to do.

I cant match the airiel photography, but you have an extraordinarily excellent taste in trucks.

It looks good, like it came that way. i would take 1 to 2 mpg. Question, Is that a Idaho tag I see on the front of your truck?

I just upload right from my devices, no big deal. It is fine for the photos I post anyway.

You and i have 2 different daughters for sure. I could see the look on my daughters face right now and then the question " what do you want me to do with that?". Shes just not a pickup girl. The expression on her face would be one for the books. I have been driving mine for 14 years and a member here for 5 and still keep learning. it is a work in progress.

I used to have an outer ware and got tired of messing with it so I pitched. it seemed to pick up any oil that was moving around.Had a good bit back when the tappet cover was leaking. The vent tube for my front diff puked some diff lube on it also. Might add one back one day.

I run mine with no heat shield. I just started watching my IAT temps this summer and typically see temps of around 25* to 30* above ambient. Not sure what I will see this winter. I used the stock tube clamped to the BHAF. I fashioned a simple cradle out of a strip of aluminum for the filter to sit in bolted to two of the stock filter box mounting bolts. Simple but effective,

i have 130k on my current pump and 350k on the clock, but mine will be 14 years old next month. My first pump went at 75k under warranty all on the oe lift pump. The second one went 145k with the oe lift pump and its failure and then to the in tank pump where I started having problems with it. The current one has been on an AD and 2 stroke all of its life. Did not know much about fuel pressure until shortly before joining this forum. I have high expectations out of this one.

Just to humor myself I searched for Mopar OE ball joints. part # 501511AA. Found them on many "Genuine Mopar" wholesale sites, no picture or desciption from $135 to $165. Amazon being the cheapest. This is the lower ball joint didn't try to find the upper. My OE's were sealed and the Spicer I found is grease able. So while Spicer may be the OE manufacturer the joints I found are not OE. My sealed OE's lasted 200k and the Moog grease able lasted 80k though I probably did not grease them that often. So I guess I am going to pick one, stick them in and keep my fingers crossed.

I am like Mr Squire above. They wont light with out the head lights on.

I fit into this category of short tripping. Alot of my trips are in the 1 mile or less range and it is not feasible to drive around enough to make up for it. It is hard on them. Lost one of my last pair going bad. Duralast from auto zone. I got the guy to condemn both of them and got a new pair for $110 or 20. 3 year free replacement and I forget the pro rated time, 5 or 6 years I think.

I think you are right about Carli. When I saw the price i knew they were out of my league. i read about them and never looked to see if they had them for my truck. Dyntrac makes them for the 2nd gen except for 00-02. There price turned me off too.

Now if I could find someone who ran them in their 00-02 4wd with the same performance I would consider them.

i would like to find the oem that were on my truck. every thing under the front axle was sealed and lasted 200k. Everything I find today is grease able. Kinda makes me wonder. .

Not really. I replaced everything under there 80k miles ago so i know what I am in for. Shopping for them has been a PITA. You can spend anywhere from $20 to $150 for one. I got 80k out of the Moog which is betters than a lot of folks and they were just shy of $50 apiece. I like you got a little frustrated on reviews so many on both sides. I especially liked the positive reviews with 5k or 10k on them. I would like to think I could be that happy with a $20 one. Figure I will get some u joints for the front also. i still have the OE's in there.