dripley

Well I am a VP man and cant add anything to ya'lls discussion much less trouble shooting. I do like that you want to see it to the end and share what you found out. I have seen to many threads that get 90% there and they just disappear. i look forward to seeing the conclusion to this and wish you all the luck.

Nothing like winning an argument that you did not have to argue to win and then standing there scratching your head trying it figure out how you did it. We just celebrated our 42nd anniversary and I have scratched most of my hair off. I will figure it out one day. Congrats on the wedding.

With 2 on one side and none on the other that would make me think there is enough difference in them that they might have to shimmed for proper spacing. Just thinking out loud. I saw alot of info on the net but not for your specific problem. but apparently the gap is pretty important.

I can accelerate in mine and not loose the cruise. Accelerate, lift and it returns to the speed I have it set on. It has been like that since new.

Possibly they are a touch to close or far away from the tone ring? Shimming? I seem to remember reading something about that somewhere before, a long time ago.

The alternator fuse just takes the alternator out of the system. You still have battery power just no charging and the truck should run until the batteries die.

Maybe I missed something. If you installed a check valve and that solved your priming issue, What makes you think the fuel is draining back?

Went out and turned the lights on and everything illuminated, even the gauges I have added.

I have not seen it, but the ad says it is a cross over/ connector tube removal tool. You can buy one from Mopar or just use a screw driver, thats what I used. Screw driver that is.

I found a small wire loom hanging from the truck which and one time was up under the hood. I dont know what it goes to but i traced the loom back to a connector in the drivers front wheel well between the inner fender liner and the fender at the front of the door. It is the single red wire coming out of the loom. On the way home my tranny temp gauge went nutty. Should not have anything to do with the above since it is not factory. I got home shut the engine off. Restarted a couple minutes and it was working fine. Coincidence ??

That sir is almost too much pain to bare. 53 is an evil number.

As I remember I had to buy them also, but seems he sends the orings with them according to his ad. Even something to remove the cross over tubes. the ad mentions connector tube o rings, and copper sealing washers but not the orings on the injectors. I know mine came with them but it might be wise just to ask. Give them a call they ar very helpful.

I feel your pain. I am counting ball joints to fall asleep by instead of sheep now.

One other thing I would like to add without reading anyones instructions on doing this. When you install the injuctors do NOT torque them down until you have installed the cross over tubes and snugged the injector lines back on. This will center them in the injectors. If you torque the injectors down first the cross over tubes will likely leak.

You are correct. The only dumb question is the one you dont ask. We have all been there before, so dont let that bother you.

I am running RV's from DAP in mine and have been for about 4 years and 100k miles. As I remember his were cheaper than Vulcan wanted then also. Price is telling to go with DAP and they are very good to work with. I have also dealt with Vulcan and they are very good to work with. Both very reputable. Dont think you are going to beat DAP's price though.

Dave, be sure and let us know what you think them. This thread sure went beyond XRF in hurry. Still not sure what am going to do, but I still have some time to think.

you are most welcome, my friend, and I can identify with the age very well!!!

That is correct. I have seen some other brands that way and a lot of others with the zerk pointing up. I did not know anything about the set up you had until it was discussed here. I also have a 90* fitting for my grease gun. I did a poor job of aligning the fitting how ever.

I have run Rotella for 14 years and never noticed it. I have heard that a lot though.

I remember looking at the Con OFE several years back, but as I have began looking again the only way I see it listed is the 1947 OFE. I assume it is the same clutch.http://www.southbendclutch.com/1947ofe.html

That is pretty much what i was seeing when I looked.

There is a sticker on my glove box door the identifies both axles. Front Dana 60/2, rear Dana 80. should be one in yours I would think. My Moog lowers have the zerk sticking out on an angle for greasing. I have had good luck with the sealed stuff on this truck and that is why I would like to have them back, especially if I can get another 200k+ out of them. I stll have the sealed factory you joints all the way around with 350k miles. But who is to say that the OEM parts you buy today are really the same part they used back in 01 when the truck was built.

Jag is your sport 4wd with the Dana 60 axle?

i wont argue with what your are saying, but I can slip my clutch with the comp off. Once the turbo spools it slips. 5th and 6th anyway. if I roll into it I can make it hold. New clutch coming soon and I will be able to enjoy the power.