dripley

There are 2 drain holes on each end of my 02's doors. Slots about 1/2" long. i squirt a little motor oil in there every so often and then stick some paper towel in there to soak up any excess. I have a little rust in the door fold over at the bottom on the inside. Thanks Mike. He told me about that one.

did the 3500 come with that emergency brake or is it aftermarket?

Such an easy gasket to replace if it wasnt for all the stuff you have to take off to get to it. Mine got leaking a quart every 200 to 300 miles. It is a great rust inhibitor.

Mike, I finally found you some proper tires. 2 per trailer.

everything!!!!!

I would not think of trying to stop mine like you do. i remember the video you posted a while back and yours really does free wheel a lot. Mine does not but you can really tell when mine engages. Sounds like a turbo prop buzzing you.

Another high dollar piece of cheap stamped metal.

5th gear is 1:1 on the 5600 just like the 4th in the 4500. Pardon me I miss read your post on the gears

DAP has a very good deal on RV275's at the moment. DAP or Vulcan are very good folks to deal with. The RV's are a nice little bump in power and you will most likely pick up a little mpg bump. I know I did. Not knowing anything about your truck or what you want do makes it difficult to advise. If you go back to your profile and add your truck info to your signature it would help greatly.

Dont know the miles on your truck, but a new set of injectors is not high in cash unless your budget is limited. I never cleaned mine until one of the o rings let go at 250k. They still worked fine and were not that dirty when I pulled them. $350 to $400 will buy you a new set, better than the stockers, ready to go. It all depends on your budget and how far your existing ones have gone.

I don't know about the problems you dealt with, but that is one fine view. Not sure I have ever seen your property from that angle. replaced my water pump about 4.5 years ago? just prior to the new RV275's.

my gauge is after market and not wired thru any of wiring harnesses. the only stock wire i touched was for power out of the fuse panel in the cab.

i have one and use it when I know the part I am removing will not be reused. I have also had some luck with the wrapping method at times. Did not work well on the unit bearing however. Not sure I had a big enough wrapper for that.

I think I did post it earlier. Forgot about yours being a 99.

I understand what you are saying and I am overdue for a coolant flush. I have run every brand of tstat you can think of. I actually have one from mopar(190*) in it right now and cost $65 and has a funky extension on it that goes into the block . It behaves no differently that a $15 Stant. It has been like this since the day I bought it.

I ran the factory airbox for many years after a 3 or 4 years I quit trying to warm it up idling. I just crank it get the juices flowing and then idle out of the rv park. i keep the rpm below 2k until it warms up going down the highway. Never tried with the BHAF come to think of it. I am now to used to doing this way to change.

My tranny temp gauge is after market. I dont know why it went whacky at the same time but it has been working fine since. I guess I need to figure out where it comes from under the hood. the other end of the loom was strapped to the main wiring harness on the fire wall. Not a part of it I strapped there some time in the past. The yellow zip tie I used was still on it

Dave 110, this is a great offer, Just beware if Mike gets the torch. He as been known to strike a man in the cahones with a super heat ball stud in the past.

Replacing_Ball_Joints.pdf Here is a right up I stumbled across a little while back. i did not have the benefit of any pneumatic tools when I did mine. Still managed to do it however. It is basically bolt off bolt on except that everything is pretty well stuck. So be prepared for some frustration.

I have idled mine quite a bit thru the years. Especially when I use it for an office on the job in the winter time. That is a tame winter time compared to what a lot of ya'll see. A bad winter for me is a low of 20 and a high of 40. Once the engine is warmed up it will idle around 160 to 165. Once it start getting colder it will drop off lower.

Beer I will leave up to you. Band aids=electrical tape and a shop rag, clean preferably but a little diesel is good for you. Get us a picture of them when you get them.

In sub freezing weather mine just wont warm up idling. I have not tried it in some years but cant imagine it is any different now that then. Took a little getting used to swapping form gas to diesel. The 2nd winter I owned it I ended up in Indiana, 5 to 10 below at night and about 10 to 20 for a high. Going to work on surface streets it would start warming up and as soon as I stopped at a light you could watch the temp fall back down waiting on the light to change. I could take the out of the way route on the interstate and it would warm right up. I started plugging it in after that and it made all the difference. It would however still drop in temp at the red lights. I have in the course of owning this truck been blessed with not working where temps get that low. But it is still needs to be driven to warm up even i sub freezing weather.

This truck has been like this since it was new. It is not the tstat. Thru the years talking with people here and elsewhere it seems pretty common. I am talking in cold winter weather, not the summertime. I will crank and let it run a minute or so before driving off just t get the juices flowing, but if I want heat I have to drive it.

i dont think my truck will go past 120 from just idling from cold start up. i have to drive to get up to temp.