dripley

While the air box would be nice, the set u I have now has served me well and I would be hard pressed to spend $300 for something new that might gain me some thing. My vote would be for the filter alone.

me too!!! That is in my future, but I dont see the CON OFE any more. It appears is a 1947 OFE, same facings different name. I need the OFEK that comes with the flywheel. Still have the stocker on.

I cant explain why. Why do some folks say they can get 80k, 90k out of set tires when I am lucky to 65k out of a set of Michelins? I will go with sealed if i am convinced they are of good quality. Mainly because I will not grease them regularly. A personal issue.

I actually did not replace them until 240k. But the steering was loose to say the least. I have found some Mopar "OEM" lowers at $135 each. If knew for sure they were the same i would most likely buy them. I would add while most everything on the front end was worn out, nothing ever failed.

Like mike says, the cross over orings. You are going to like what you are doing. The RV's themselves are a nice addition and I did see some mpg increase with them. I just put a comp on mine but my clutch would not hold it and will have to be replaced. That could be a concern. I have seen a fuel mileage increase since my install of the comp even with it off.

I noticed when i first got mine that when you set the cruise the pedal did not stay down. Every cruise control me and the wife ever had the pedal stayed down when set and came back up when canceled. Never gave it much thought until I found out it was all electronic and not mechanical.

Rotella from the first oil change with a little Delo in the mix in the past year or so. CJ-4 when ever they changed over

The ones in Mike's picture are around $89. That is more my speed but still alot more than the BHAF.

Thats a lotta boat!!

That means it does not fit the factory air box, correct?

That's a gooden right there. I need Barney style my self on occasions.

I would agree highway miles are easier on the truck. But Caj's highway miles and mine are a lot different. He strapped some pretty good loads on that truck. I tow pretty heavy at 15k but less than 10% of my miles are loaded. Empty I am only about 7500# depending on what is in the bed at the time.

My logic at the time was since the stocker held up under the extra power and the load that an upgraded clutch ought to work out just fine. My mistake as I only got maybe half the life out of it. Live and learn.

After seeing the pdf in Mikes post it make me wonder about the Delo 400 LE. It seems the Delo 400 ranked much better. I have used Rotella T for almost the entire life of the truck.

My trailer is 15k. i pull it 4 to 6 times a year for maybe 2k miles. This is the one I bought, just not from DAPhttp://dieselautopower.com/1999-2005-cummins-nv5600-13-x-1-375-single-disc-hd-replacement-brass-woven-organic/. The upper description says 400hp and 900lbs of torque. the lower says 350 hp and 800lbs of torque. I did not notice that until after I had purchased. But I figured if the stock clutch help the power while towing and lasted 245k(100k of that with the 15k trailer) that this clutch should have done better. Maybe an install problem, not sure. It does make me gun shy of the valair though. I am also a little gunshy of a dual disc. I dont need it for daily driving which is what I am doing over 90% of the time.

The clock spring is not big deal really to get to. I definitely would start with the simple things first. Brake light switch is pretty simple. I do remember some threads here that the switch did turn out to be the culprit. I get cold chills every time I think about a bad ECM. That was the least fun experience I have had with this truck.

I have a valair on now. Lost the throw out bearing at 70k and now the clutch at 110k. My stocker lasted 245k.

The most i ill ever see is 50 to 75 hp injectors but that would be out of curiosity or just wanting new injectors. Need a new clutch first.

350k on the clock on mostly Rotella. Some Delo 400 le in the mix of late. no additives or synthetic.

That is the main reason I went with a manny. Replaced a NV5600 lately. Pretty pricey too, though not as bad as a built auto I guess.

Mine is a pavement KING !!!!!

think i will stick with the OE HX on mine. Laggy off the line but spools pretty good if I want to run thru the gears quickly, as long as you keep the rpm's u p a little. Got you on the tires. looked up the difference on the diameters.

Did you get your headlight fixed?. If it was the bulb dont let it bother you. If I had a nickle for every simple fix I missed I would be a rich man.

I always thought that the HY was better at low rpm that high rpm. Am I wrong?

My speedo is right for the tires and I know when I am speeding, 78 in a 70 is about my norm. Thats why I was wondering. My hearing is bad and I could have missed that one easy. So I am turning about 2250 at 78 mph on my tires