dripley

I will say if mine had not crapped out I would not have bought the comp. Probably would have bought a comp instead of the Banks had I known differently at the time. I have learned a lot here since then.

As ever your heart is as big as the outdoors. We will keep ya'll in our thoughts and prayers out here.

How can you tell by those pictures the cables are shot? I can see the end is shot but cant see the cables themselves. The oil trick works better than anything I have tried in the past.

I ran an Otto mind for about 6 years and it worked fine. I bought in their Stinger plus package. It died about 2 years ago. When it died I lost the pyro and boost gauges since they were interconnected and will not work with a different chip . I can't complain about it because it worked as advertised and i had plenty of power, 75 rwhp claimed and not far off I dont think. Do you know what package is on the truck? They sold them in 2 or 3 configs. Mine came with the gauges, exhaust housing for the turbo with a wastegate that opens around 33 or 34 psi, 4" exhaust, and I thinks that's it. I have since redone my gauges and bought a Edge comp from DAP just a couple months ago and Edge still advertised them on there site at that time. if the quit making them it has to be very recent. Only bad thing for me is my clutch wont hold it and it has to be replaced. So a comp might go beyond your clutch. For an example I just hauled my fifth wheel(15k#) about 400 miles with the Comp off and no problem even in 6th gear. Empty and the Comp on level 1 and sub level 1 as soon as the turbo spools the clutch slips.

I did a little research this afternoon and I found that what you experienced was what I was thinking about. Delayed light and no start until it came on. Even though this is leaning toward a new ECM, I think i would start checking and cleaning any connectors just to be sure. ECM's are quite pricey. i lost my ECM several years ago but with little or no symptoms. Ran a little funny one evening and the next day going to work it just crapped. it would start and idle but was undriveable.

I just cycled mine and the WTS light only stays on briefly. It is one of the first lights that goes off and might be easy to miss. IIRC the WTS issues were the truck not starting until the light went off. I could be wrong though, it has been a while.

Damn John. looks like you moved to the Smokey Mountains. That is a very common look at the Smokies. Micheal, you and Rosa Lee take care now. I will be thinking about ya both.

i guess because the turned the trucks upside down. Missed that one earlier.

Be safe my friend.

That is the same instructions that came with both of mine. Having a little problem with mine, but that is for another thread.

If it is all OE it probably all needs replacing. It is not difficult just a little time consuming. All pretty much bolt on and off. Some beating is required and decent pullers help.

Sitting here watching cops on TV and listening to the rain bouncing off of my new roof vents. The buckets are put up. Ahhhh, life is dry!!!

I had nothing angled in my set, everything was square as I recall. it worked great other than that.

I cant take credit for the write up, I stumbled across it somewhere but don't remember where. As far as the torque I would look it up in the FSM or a Haynes manual or such. Don't have either with me at the moment.

That is all mine had in it was the little clip.

More than likely is shot if it is cracked. so I would vote yes.

I have to add mine is an 02 and I believe differs from your 99 as far as removing some of the parts, rotor,ect.

I can offer you this. I did mine with the same set as shown, but I dont remember having angled spacer so some beating was required for removal of the lowers as I recall. Replacing_Ball_Joints.pdf Also the press kit came from Advance Auto and I could have returned but kept it for future use. $150

A new government program.

My memory is back now. I found the socket easily and it was local. When pulled that little clip out I dropped in the gravel driveway and lost it. Spent an hour trying to find with my fingers and a magnet. The local dealer was out and I had to drive 50 miles to get to a dealer that had it. They then charged me almost $15 for it. A 50 cent clip. That was the only difficult part I had to deal with.

I thought it was to get more fluid to the 6th gear bearings, but my memory is out to lunch and can't find the taco truck.

I would second the idea on the return fitting and tee. I had the same issue a few years back and it cured mine. i did NOT however have white smoke billowing out.

I always knew the Drip stood for something.

maybe you have better ones than i do. never saw hard plastic get so soft.

I did my right one a few years back and all I remember getting was the seal and reusing all hardware. IIRC!!