dripley

Hex, what do you do for a living? I thought it involved glazing. If so look at all of the glass. If not I will go stand in the corner with my funny hat on.

The oil could just be migrating back there from the tappet cover I guess. The wind could whip it around there. There is to much stuff in the way to tell. The oil in the back is minimal. From what i can see it has only stained the rear of the block and actually there is not enough for to run off, yet. There is a thin line of wet oil right across the rear at the cylinder head/block joint. I am going to do my tappet cover gasket and vacuum pump reseal pretty soon and and will have that side of the motor stripped pretty clean. I should be able to get a good look at it then. I guess the line being wet is what bothers me the most, it makes it look like it is leaking(more a weep than a leak) from the head. I will keep an eye on it for now until i can go in for the rest of the leak repairs. Keeping my fingers crossed it aint the head gasket.

I have some oil leaks in some usual places such as the tappet cover, vacuum pump, and maybe the front cover and /or the front main seal. The other day I noticed some oil coming around from the rear of the engine. I thought it was from the valve cover but upon further inspection it appears that it is coming from between the head and the block. I looked at it with a mirror and can see the joint between the two has a wet oily line. the oil is migrating down and onto the block. About 4 months ago I blew my radiator climbing the mountain and briefly overheated the engine(my fault), could this be a by product of the incident and I almost blew my head gasket or could there be a simpler explanation? No coolant in the oil and no oil in the coolant.

I have the Banks quick turbo exhaust housing with the big head waste gate actuator. It opens around 34# and the tuner did the boost fooling. No tuner, no boost fooling.

Well I made my trip back without the banks and the gauges. I did hook the TC up straight to the gauge and got a reading though way off. The trip was very uneventful and the truck ran just fine. I missed the extra HP the banks provided, but with the rv 275's I had sufficient power for the mountains. Just drove a little slower and kept my foot out of it on the steeper grades. I did get me some new gauges but did not get to install them before leaving.

We work on 1.5 to 2 acre lots. 100 foot increments is about all we use. Keeps it simple. Funny thing is I dont remember seeing your explanation when I replied.

If it were me I would work on the electrical gremlins first then on to the fuel system. But it sounds like that is on its last leg also. Low voltage can make these truck do funny things. Get your batteries load tested and your alternator bench tested. Make sure they check AC voltage on it also. Stray AC voltage will wreak havoc with tbe electronics. As far as the no bus and ccd network we are going to need some help from other family members. I dont know enough about them.While I have a BC pump in mine and it works beautifully, they are pricey and if money is an issue there are other routes that are more economical.

I am ready to do it as long as we can stay in that $200 price range.

That would explain it.

You need to get your signature filled out so every one knows as much about your truck. Year, make, model, any mods and such.Is the truck running? You say you still get the codes, were they present when you bought it? Oil on the wires by itself should not hurt any thing as long as the joints are tight and sealed.

I would like to find a bed for 200 and I would be happy. Hope your good luck keeps going.

I did not think the 01's had a tap on top of the filter. I thought they were like my 02 with the screw on cap and drop in filter. Early 01's maybe not?

So CDP, how's she starting now?

The 265's came as an option and I believe it was listed that way on the price sticker. I seem to remember choosing it because my 96 had 245's and they always looked small on the truck. It might have been part of the camper package. I will have to dig out my sticker and see what it says.

I never tried a 16% with the trailer. 8 is maybe the most I have ever seen towing.

That is something. Never seen anything like that.

Mennen/Fruit of the loom. - - - Updated - - - Mennen/Fruit of the loom. - - - Updated - - - Mennen/Fruit of the loom. - - - Updated - - - I think I have reply finger malfunctions too.

Welcome to the family.

Sits very well on the truck. How is your stopping power?

I have seen 20 in mine on a pure interstate run at 65 to 70, but never with any city driving with it.

I am running Cooper ATP's in 265 75r, 16 LR E. That is what come on it as an option as I remember. Stock on mine would have been 245's per the sticker in the door frame. I think I will get 50 maybe 55 out of them. We will see. The do ride good on the highway and work good around the job site. I have not driven them in the snow and I dont off road enough to talk about.

16% grade = 16' of rise in 100' feet of road.

I have mine registered for for 10k and the fee is $110. When I renewed it I asked about registering it for 20k and the shot to something over $300. I kept it at 10k. My 5th tag only cost $20 IIRC. - - - Updated - - - I have mine registered for for 10k and the fee is $110. When I renewed it I asked about registering it for 20k and the shot to something over $300. I kept it at 10k. My 5th tag only cost $20 IIRC.

Welcome. That is very good looking truck. I would say do the thread anyway you are comfortable with.

Codes?