dripley

I am not sure I could have reached 25 pounds, they just cranked down fairly easy until I ran out of threads. The truck rode and handled much better with the new ones. My truck has always had an issue with bump steering, not bad, just bad enough to freak you out every once in a while. I put Max Links on about 3 years ago and dont remember much difference. I rebuilt the front end about 1.5 years ago and that did make a difference. You could feel it want to bump steer but the effect was reduced by 80% or 90%. With the new links I never once felt any bump steer on my 630 mile ride last night. I74 and I70 in Indiana will beat you to death. quite happy with the results. I was surprised the links make as big a difference as I thought it was steering geometry that caused bump steering and I did not know the links played that big a part. Adjusting the steering box helped with my steering. It reduced the amount of input to maintain straight line steering. I not even sure I turned the adjuster 1/8 of a turn. I used to have a Chevy S-10 that i did this to but turned way more than 1/8 turn. It worked great in the driveway, steered a whole easier(manual steering). Took it out on the road a whipped around my first turn and let go of the wheel and no steering return:stuned:. That will wake you up. No issues with that this time. Every thing else works just fine.

See if you have any trouble codes while you are at it.

I just put on two new stabilizer links on the front. No problem installing them except for knowing how much to tighten the nut down on the bushings. They tightened easily until I ran out of threads. Is there a proper squish value on the bushings? I also tighten sector shaft adjustment on the steering box about 1/8 turn and it seems to be working better on the test drive here at home. I am leaving for Indiana shortly and will put it to the test then.

I might have to agree with you on more pressure. If nothing else it would seem to me to wear the centers out prematurely. The photo does appear to show them riding on the center 2/3 of the tread. I am curious as to what you ended up with cost wise. Tires, shipping, mounting and balancing.

My mother-in-law is Japanese and my wife 1/2 Japanese(other half redneck and I do mean red)and they can come up with some weird stuff to eat, but I think they would draw the line on that one. I sure hope so any way. I think I better be careful what I eat next time I am at home.

Wire nuts and butt splices, definitely some concern. The one picture you ask about the ECM. It is the PCM in the photo. The ECM would be on the left side of the block if it was left in the stock location.

This is what i did. I closed the drain valve and left the toilet valve closed and hooked up to the rinse connection and left the water on. I then proceeded to the beer locker and stopped and talked to the neighbor. As we were BS'ing, I noticed water coming off the roof of the rv. Somebody forgot the water was on. It actually filled the black water tank and went up the vent pipe and was venting water onto the roof. Fortunately I had already dumped the tank and was just rinsing. I did not even know that was possible, but it is.

Welcome again, I would have to agree with Mike, both inside and outside of the hood.

nice looking truck and welcome to the forum. That was one nasty looking air filter.

I do use a chemical in the hot weather for odor control. It can knock you down like MM says. I just use something mild and inexpensive. I am not trying to dissolve anything, its not in there long enough. Just for odor. I usually rinse mine once a month and it keeps it clean and the sensors still read just fine. When I travel I will leave 5 gallons in the black tank so it sloshes around and rinse it when I first set up. Now this is important about rinsing, never connect the hose, get another beer and start talking to the neighbors. It can lead to a mess.

The 4 or 2 wheel low gives you better mechanical advantage and works everything a little less. Another way to think when backing is, if you want the trailer to go to the left steer to the right. You want to go right steer to the left. The trick is learning when to following it up so you dont over steer. That is one that just comes with practice. I still over steer mine sometimes and just have to pull up a little to regain the angle you are looking for. Happens to all of us some times.

,All I see is tapping the pump wire, no mention of the stealth plate. Call DAP and ask them. They cant void it for asking. Jacob will be straight up with you about it.

You dont have to tap the pump, but to get the full benefit of the comp, tapping the pump is necessary. Tapping the wire will void the warranty. I have seen some vendors state that the stealth plate will void the warranty also. some dont.

I use it. It cost more but not enough for me to worry about. I have used regular when necessary with out incident but still but the rv stuff. That is most in depth discussion I have ever had about TP.

Seems the older I get the more I enjoy working on and around the house as long as it is on my terms and not say the water heater blew up and HAS to be replaced now. Painting is definitely my least favorite. I get home so little though that I am always behind.

You aren't making fun of my professionally crafted "blue" wiring harness are you?

I guess I am not seeing what the pin on my trailer fits in. Is there something I am missing or an adapter you must by with it?

Well this is going to sound bone headed but I took my snap ring pliers and tried to depress them, never tried prying them up:doh:. As you said they are hard to see but I could not feel anything to pry up on. I will give that a try this week end.

Well I have seen the black tabs, kind of rectangular i think. Definitely cant get at them by removing anything on the front. bet I could have seen them when the dash was out though. Sounds like I picking at the right tabs so I guess I will keep trying.

Has anyone pulled their lighter or power port? The FSM says there are 2 tabs in them you depress with snap ring pliers from the inside. I seem to feel something like that in there, but have not been successful in removing either of them. All I have done is booger them up.

There is also a relay in the PDC for the horn. You can swap one of the other relays in its place and see if it is relay.

Lone Watie is right. You should be reading your pressure up stream of your filters. I have mine plumbed into the line between the fuel filter canister and the vp. I chose to keep my oe canister in the system for the fuel heater and the water in fuel sensor. A little extra filtration does not hurt either. It is not absolutely necessary, just what i wanted. Dont mess with the overflow it should remain and the pressure reading there would do you no good.you can ignore the second picture. got it on there and could not get it off.

with all of the above. Your vp will love you for it.

I am going to have to assume that she either agrees with you or there is no way she is going to read this.

Hey Denhop, you might have to shoot some more pics the totm or the ban hammer might get you. Rogan can be obliging when asked.