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dripley

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Everything posted by dripley

  1. I might try that one my self. I could not tell in the picture if it might just thread into the existing whole for the oe one. I could not see the whether it had male or female threads.
  2. Well I dont have a tp filter, but I like the idea of the product. I also like this thread. Wher else are you gonna hear anything about my arse getting wider or the paper is getting smaller.. Best laugh I have had all day. I wieghed in at 155 when I went for my army physical in 1971. Now in 2012 I weigh in at 205, but my arse is still just as narrow as it was then. It is a Ripley thing. Us Ripley men folk just have narrow arses. I guess TP has gone they way of every thing else, to keep the consumer cost the same, just shrink the size and hope they dont notice. Can you still by a HALF GALLON of ice cream any where or is it just a bit shy?Anyway, Dork, MM, and Russ, thanks for the laugh, I needed that one.
  3. Welcome to the farm. What kind of fuel pressure problem are you having?
  4. The one I bought from BD diesel years ago turned out to be a carter. I did not know much about it then. It did keep decent pressure though. Much better than the in tank pump. Mine did not look as crusty as JP's.
  5. Mine started long before the big line kit I installed. I might have to make sure I try purely old style anti freeze next time. I believe I have been using the type that works in both newer and older. I will give it a try with just water and see what happens with mine. I know we have the opposite problem, but it would be worth experimenting.
  6. That pan fried sounds pretty good to me, John.
  7. I have never installed a Raptor, but I would think it comes with a haress very similar to the AD I installed on mine. If so you will be plugging the harnes from the oe lift pump into the harness. That will provide the signal from the ECM to engage the relay in the new harness. The power for the pump will come from elsewhere. I have wired to the altenator for a power source. It can also run straight from the battery. All of that should be addressed in the instalation instructions. You can download the instructions from pure flow's web site without purchasing if you want to look them over.The pump on the frame rail looks alot like the one I had. Looks like it might have been there a while. It would not hurt to see the pressure its putting out, at least you can see what the VP has been running on. Good luck.
  8. My intank pump was connected thru a harness very simmilar to the AD harness. I am not sure where it got its signal to run though. The oe harness was dangling and not being used. The booster pump was wired into an oil pressure switch on the drivers side of the block. The booster pump did not come on until a certain oil pressure was reached. I dont remember what that pressure was though. I am certain it was there to keep from over powering the VP on start up.Thanks Gasser for carifying the pump/filter thing.
  9. I am seeing neat 17.5 right now. That is with about 65% highway and 35% in town.
  10. That is a funny one there. - - - Updated - - - The first smart car I ever saw was in Maryland and it had a vanity plate on it. It read "DTHTRAP". I agree. - - - Updated - - - The left line riders who pace the people beside really grind my gears. Especiallly when they are passing the SLOWER TRAFFIC KEEP RIGHT signs. How does one get a spot in the Idaho 300? - - - Updated - - - Well I can see by this that I am already qualified for the 300.
  11. My second pump was a BD diesel booster pump. I bought it from them for $300 i think. Installed it after the in tank pump pressure fell off badly and it did keep my presure to safe margin. When I finally installed the AD I noticed the pump was made by Carter. I was a little more than suprised. As far as frunning thru the stock filter canister, the last time I looked at a Raptor, it does not come with any filtration and needs the stock filter, unless you add one somewher else.
  12. That is something, next time I have a day off I am going to read it. I hope one day off is enough!
  13. just turned over 260k yeterday.DW i'm glad you put in that caveat on the wood.
  14. I had a similar set up on mine at one time except my oe lift pump had been replaced with the in tank version. It did work, but i kept worrrying one of th pumps would go out. Since you are getting the Raptor it would best to toss the other two. Since the Raptor has no filtration you will need to run it to the filter cansiter or add a filter somewhere else. It would also be good to installl abig line kit from the cannister to the vp to open that line up. A fuel pressure gauge is something you really need so you cna monitor that pressure. You want to keep it above 14 psi at all times. You need the pressure so the pump is coolled properly. I have mine set at 19 at idle and it drops to 16 at WOT.Your vp is colled and lubed by the fuel that passes thru it. The check valve that lets this fuel thru is fully open near 14psi. Welcome to the family.
  15. I noticed a nice kick with mine. Almost as good as I got with the addition on the Banks system I installed. I dont know how much differance there is between the auto and the manual however.
  16. Ohhhh! in the hauler and not infront of the hauler, now I am catching on.
  17. I try and stay out of these convesations due to one fact. Banks. There I said it. Banks is not popular here, but I bought mine long before finding this place and all of the good folks here. I bought the banks stinger plus system 7 years ago and have had nothing but good service with it. It is non adjustable, except with your right foot. They stated a gain of 75rwhp, though I have never dynoed it. It did make an impressive to me differance. My kit came with 4" exhaust, exhaust turbo housing, egt and boost gauge, oiled air filter(I dont recomend that), and the Ottomind tuner. As stated before, it has served me well with no problems. It does tap the pump. The Ottomind tuner can be purchased seperately. and has a stated hp gain of near 100hp i believe. I am not sure how it compares in price with the Edge comp. If I were to need to change mine I would definately look closely at the Comp and the Ottomind.
  18. You got me beat on milage hands down. I dont tow alot, but when I do I tow 15k. Plus I did put 6k in the bed once, but for less than 100 miles. It still amazes me what this truck will do when you need it to. - - - Updated - - - I always thought that is what you pulled the trailer with.
  19. I am a little curious as to why you would hear air in your down pipe when pressurizing the intake system.
  20. Mine started leaking by and went completely after about 4 months. But yours might go tomorrow, I think I was lucky. When it goes, no more clutch where ever you might be. I should have replaced mine alot sooner. At least I could have done it at home where my tools were instead of in a parking lot. I's say replace at your ealiest convenience, it going go sometime some where.
  21. sounds to me like your clutch hydros are going out. Either the master or the slave, could even be both. Most folks change it out with a completet unit, pre blead with fluid. Just change the whole thing out. I for one changed my master about 3 years ago and the slave about 6 months ago. It can be done either way, though bleed the master is a pita. Her is xome reading on the subject.http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/28-transmission-systems/54-hydraulic-clutch-master-and-slave-replacement
  22. My trailer will hold me back some, but on a twisty steep down grade it will not slow me enough, but the ebrake does.
  23. Check and see if you have 12v to the raptor after you bump the starter.
  24. I have been thru Bluemont when I was working in Maryland a few years back. I built 3 CFA's between Fredrick and Rockville. We used to cut thru that area going over to 81 south to get home. Pretty country up thru there, but we never made to the highway you speak. We were always a little north of the strech of road, just sight seeing.