dripley

all you re trying to do is get fuel to the draw straw. drill some holes. ther cannot be to many. the most i have is 2. speaking of memory i just installed mine a little while ago and cannnot remember how many i drilled. good luck.

as i remember i drilled one or two holes in the basket to allow fuel in. i also removed the rubber flapper on the bottom of the basket to allow fuel in. i cant find the pictures and am not at home to confirm. the object is io get fuel in the basket so you do not run out. i dont think you can drill to many or to big to accomplish that.

darn good to hear.:hyper: do you know what the DMF stands for?

does the draw straw pull fuel from the tank or the fuel basket? i thought all draw straws pulled directly from the tank. in that case i do not know why you would need extra holes in the fuel basket. i just installled an ADII and the fuel pick up is in the basket and i had to drill 2 hole as i remember.

something is definately wrong in the cluctch. it is not disengaging. the blonde in me has stopped this truck and others while the clutch was engaged with no adverse problems. i know that it is not good for them but it would suprise if that could totaly trash one. though something has happened. what is a DMF anyway. i have seen that term and dont know what it stands for.

when i was looking into power upgrades everything i read said to add better air flow before adding power so i installed a 4" exhaust and a k&n filter. i have since replaced the k&n with a BHAF. i bought my exhaust with the stinger plus package i iinstalled 6 years ago. so far it has served me well. no better milage for me, but that has alot to do with driving style. i know mopar man has a straight 3" exhaust on his and it is working fine with his edge. the 3" will support some power upgrades but i dont know how much.

appreciate the info. do you carry the OEM bodies?

i am gla d she was polite and respecful. hate to see her pissed off.:cookoo:

thanks, i hope to put some rv 275's in soon. DAP has got them for 200+125 core. thats as cheap as i have seen them any where. it says they use and after market body. i am going to have to ask jkidd what that means. dont remember seeing that before. it also says they can add 40 hp to a stock truck. i know yours is not stock. did they add soem hp to yours even with the edge comp?

i did mine about 6 months ago. it was the first time for me. i like you have to have my truck all the time since i have to travel to work. i did mine in 3 trips. i was not that difficult, i just did not have the time to do it on one trip. drove better after every trip. you will need an alignment after you are done.

i think the michelens are the best i have run on this truck. 11 to 1200 bucks for a set of tires sucks. i run 98% of my miles on the highway. probably tow my rv about 5k to 6k out of the life time of a set. but i do like to use my horsepower, spool up the turbo just to hear it, and sometimes i think i have a large sportscar. all that aand a truck that weighs 7500# will take its toll on the rubber.

who is a good source for these filters?

i replaced everything on the steering. ball joints, upper and lower, tie rods, tie rod ends, drag link. did not change pitman arm, steering box or control arms. you can buy the parts for near $400 depending on the brand. one tool you will need is a press, they can be had from your auto parts supplier on loan. rockauto.com is a good place to buy the parts. cant recomend a shock i still have my ranchos in the box and cant find the time toput them on.

mive been ramping up in the past year. will be looking at one quarter of a million near the end of the year. that really sounds like alot more than 250k, but i beleive it is the same.

#2worn fornt end parts including shocks. if they are all oe they probably need replacing. maybe not all but if they are oe it would not hert to replace then all if you have the time and the $$$.

you could be right. i am not sure. it just sounds like something is not getting the proper signal.a few questionsyou say the truck runs great. does it run as good as before your problems?is it just the gauges that are not working?can you check for dtc's in the computer?

it sounds like no signal is going from the otto to the gauge or the signal is not coming from the map sensor. i know the signal voltage is going to change to brighten that led. is there any way tocheck and see if you are getting a signal to the gauge. i believe you would have to drive the truck to load the engine for boost and see if you are getting a signal while under load. you might check and see if you have any dtc's pretaining to the map sensor. it might be bad. i dont know how that sensor acts when it goes bad. alright guys, i know there are not alot of Banks fans here, but when dripley is giving advice on electronics we might be in trouble. any suggestions.

i put mine on about 6 years ago and i dont really remember what i had to do to connect them. as i remeber power for gauges comes from the fuse box and there are signal wires coming from the tuner. i would check and see if you have power to them and then see if you have any signal going to them. I would not have a clue as to what values you ought to see from the signal wires though.is the tuner still working as far as added power to the engine? i hope this make sense because electronics is not one of my strong points. i have never had problems with mine to have to work on it.

better safe than sorry. i have been using rotella since the truck was new and never paid any attention to any changes on the label. i guess i should open my eyes every once in a while.

i thought they only had engine bonnets in England. i did not know they had them in Canada also.

thanks

Yall both need to be careful because Mike has wood.

after my fuel life thread kinda turned into a fuel filter thread, i thought i would just ask what is best.my set up;AD II 165 with AD filters, run to the stock fuel canister, vulcan bif line kit to the vp.i am currently running the stock filters on the AD and the filter in the stock fuel canister is what ever i bought last. it seems the filter in the stock fuel canister no matter where you buy it is the same. in other words i do not have a clue as how good it is. My AD has a WS100 and a ff100-2. i need to order some replacements. thru all the discussions i am not sure which way to go. AH you are the man on filters which ones should i be using. As a father who has one son and one son in law in the military, your service is greatly appreciated and your opinions are respected. your humble tax payer, Dripley to some

is i remember it was $400 maybe $450. the mech could not figure why it was so much until we talked about the nv5600. if i had a shop it would not be a big deal to do. on a piece of plywood in the driveway makes it a little more dificult. i might could make some money at $1000 though, even in the drive way.

AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! thats about 215. shoulda listened.