dripley

mine came with extra springs and a stabilizer bar on the rear and that might have made the differance. i would hate to haul my 5th with out them. i hauled my last 5th with a 2500 that did not have them. you could tell adifferance though the last one was about 3500# lighter than the one i have now. i was suprised there was no differance in gcvw of the two. i did not want a dually cause i figured the fenders would have lasted me about 6 months before i knocked them off. plus i only move my rv 3 or 4 time a year. some of the trips are pretty long, 500+ miles.

the dually offers more stability when towing large trailers or 5th wheels.

Mike, have you moved yours from where you show it in the picture? i did reinstall my stock fuel canister, with a big line kit and felt that having it after the last fuel filter would be the best place. with out doing that i probably would have installed it closer to the pump.

according to the manufacturers web site flickering lights is a sgn of the coverter being overloaded.i did find my battery to be bad. checked it out last night and it had about 3 volts when disconnected. it also had about 3 oz of water in it:doh:. buying a new one today and see if that might not sove the problem. i did get the ac to work last night after i refilled the battery and took out all but two of the fuses. i think the battery was the overload problem, but i will sart reinstalling the fuses this evening and wee what happens.

i have heard of that before. i think the wifes dakota will do that. i know i have read it somewhere. i never put much stock in it though.

i just got a new pair of glasses a couple months ago. the odd thing is when the sweat drips on them it just runs right of and i dont have to wipe them off. i gotta go back to wally sorld and find out if there is something special on them. i have been wearing glasse since i was 6 and never had a pair that would do this.

the installation is not difficult at all. there are some good instructions here for that. Blue chip diesel also has some good instructions. those are the ones i used to install mine. my son and i did the job in 4.5 hours form start to finish. i know of no calibration necessary for the pump after install. there is a keyway in the pump shaft that has to be installed just right for the timing i believe. that is covered in the installation instructions. Mine was good to go right after install. just take your time and follow the intructions. read them over a couple of times before you start. once you read them over you will understand the importance of the keyway and they care you need to take when installing it. a dropped keyway can cause a lot of extra work

when i bought my 02 both the 3500 dually and the 2500 had gcvw of 20k with the same rear end and manual tranny. the auto's were only rated at 16k or 17k.

you gotta love nascar. especially if you live in Hickory NC. i would also like to thank God for having a sense of humor.

local napa guy just looked at me funny when i asked for polyon. same thing with the valve, if it wasnt inthe store it must not exist. i willl find some and swap it one day soon. hopefully before it breaks. i also drilled a small hole in my 3 pod apillar to let me know if it starts leaking behind the gauge. i figured that would be better than depending on my nose to smell it as it runs down the apillar and behind the dash.

i just instaled mine this weekend. i got the tapped push lock from Vulcan Performance along with the valve and big line kit. the tubing and connection to the valve came from auto zone.there was a like fitting to connect to my fp gauge. all in a little kit for $6. i tried to get the polyon from napa but my local store is a little less than helpful. i did not have time to wait so i used what i could get. from the looks of my tubing the polyon would be much better and i will swap mine out one day.

is that one of thowe invisible attachments? gotta go back to the rv in a little while and deal with it tommorow. got my new fp gauge in and working today. i spent about 2 1/2 hours chasing a leak and the truck not starting. turned out to be fuel coming from #4 injector that i had cracked open to resart the truck. the AD had pumped fuel all the way to the injectors but would not start. turns out the one and only me forgot to plug the vp back up.

mine cracked pretty bad but has not fellthru anywhere. just a matter of time. that is the cheapest i have seen one. maybe with all of the cracked dashes out there the price is coming down. idont know who makes the one on genos garage.

i saw a dash replacement on comp diesel yesterday. it is made by LMC. dont kow how to post a link but is is LMC.com. it is only $200. just wondering if any of you have seen one in person. some of the guys over there spoke well of it.

i think my 6speed came with brass. i do believe there are some new ones of a differant material. though i know about as much about the internals as you do.

how long did it take to find out you are not a smoker? get a wife my reminds me every chance she gets:smart:. kinda hard to loose track of. good fit though.

it was 102 in raliegh NC when i went thru yesterday. ac does not work so i had the windows down. even going 75 the sun was brutal. funny though i am working near the coast and the temp ther has been less than back towards home. it was a beautiful 96 in Elizabrth city NC. rains over here gotta mow the grass. sure hope my belts dont break cause i only have the one for the deck and not one for the drive.

it appears that i have good power to the trailer. i am thinking just by unplugging the ac power and turning on the lights it will be on battery alone and if they work for 30 to 40 minutes that would narrow it down to the converter. i have about 10 circuits in the rv. all run thru a fuse box very much like our trucks. two prong plug ins. battery is negative ground i am leanig towrd the converter my self. i am home this weekend and will be headed back tommorow. if the ac is running i will check some of it out. if not i guess i will worl on that instead.

got ot agree with russ on the easy outs, they are hardened. the machine oight to have something. trying to get my leaks and fp gauge in and it is raining just like last week, but at least it isnt 102 outside.

tractor running?

i think i'm speechless:thud:but not yet leakless.

i meant the brake lines. replaced all but the fuel return line weh i installed the AD. did not mean to hijack the thread.

i appreciate the help.

what did you use to replace the hard lines with? i notice rust on my break lines neear the fuel tank when i installed myAD>

i talked to and electrician on my 12 volt issue he is going to help me with that. i had 120 voltson both sides f the main breaker. that was with out the ac runnig though. ill check it with it on and see if i am loosing voltage. i was plugged into a 50 amp and swapped the other source which was a 30 amp and it ran awhile longer but eventually shut down. the park is only 30% full so unless he has a really bad system idont think that is it,but you never know. i have had experiance that before in a really full park, it is like a brown out, but everything still worked. my cord is either 6 or 8 gauge probably 8 and is at least 20' long and weighs a ton. just gonna have to do some more trouble shooting when i get back. it is supposed to be a little cooler next week.