dripley

I have that issue too. Its like they think you are in a drag race. I launch in 2nd and when I go to 3rd they disappear behind my tailgate.

I have read of others with this issue. Not sure your sensor is bad. @Me78569 this is not uncommon is it? I cant remember what I have read about this.

Coasting in drive or neutral generates no boost pressure. The engine has to be under some load the generate boost pressure. How is the play in your turbo? Can move the shaft up and down or in and out? I noticed in one of your pics of the exhaust side seems to have some of the soot rubbed off of the wheel. Fingers maybe? Not sure what could rub it off in the turbo. Compressor wheel rubbing maybe?

Well if you are hearing the noise while coasting, you have no boost pressure to make a noise.

Think I woul call RA and ask them why.

Thats about the same as I paid for the work you describe in Hickory. No valave guides either. Mine were still good. 25k miles or so later and she still running fine.

If the ECM has a tune from say a Smarty on it, can the dealer flash over that back to stock settings?

I have used the cheapest and semi metalic. The semis are are alittle harsher on the rotors. Right now I have ceramic pads on anf they are holding up well but are harsher on the rotors. So much I will have to change the rotors when the pads go. Probably wont use them again. I got them in a package deal from Rock Auto for cheap so maybe the rotors are not that good. I have about 45k on them and they are about 50% gone and this is without my EB. Also I drive alot of highway miles. About 2 to 1 right now.

Before my exhaust brake I got 50kto 60k out of front brakes. Sometimes I drive like @JAG1 and other times not. Some times I downshift and get a little engine braking but a turbo charged engine does not give as much engine braking as a naturally aspirated engine does.

Just add this, the line is not under constant pressure. It only ramps for the injection event since we have mechanical injectors. All of that is done by the VP. Exactly how it does is over my head.

The fuel I saw in your video is coming out of a line with an ID of around 1/16 of an inch, I dont know the exact ID on them. The fuel is being pushed thru 7 holes that are only 100th of an inch in the case of 7 X .010 injectors, 150hp. The injection event happens in milliseconds, how many someone smarter than me would know better. Most injectors should come set near 310 bar pop pressure. 310 X 14.5 psi equals 4,495 psi to pop the injector. The flow I saw in your vid is pretty much what I have seen out mine with lines loose. I get no spraying from mine since I back the nut all the way off. That being said I have never put my finger over the ends of the lines to feel any pressure they are under.

They spray when you just loosen them a half of a turn or so. You have good flow, the injection event does not need a ton a fuel. The injection event is around 4000 to 4500 psi. Also the fuel you are seeing there gets pushed thru 7 tiny holes in a split second per event. I had an injector line snap off at the head a couple years back. I ended up clamping some fuel hose on it and ran it to a 5 gallon fuel can in the bed. In the 15 miles back to the job I had near filled that can up with no more flow that you are seeing.

I used a section of air hose on mine. Been on there for years.

Those ports are a bit flimsy. Figured it was worth a shot instead of just spending money sensors that might be fine.

You might try checking for codes again since your normal functions seem to have returned.

My LEDs are in the non sport housings. 1 9004 style bulb. So far so good. They do shine light out to the side of the truck but so do the halogens. The most glare I have now is from white/amber turn signals. The projector on the front of the bulb seems to be the culprit. I need to replace those.

Number 6 is the "banjo bolt"/relief valve that I believe @Reddemonvp44 is refering to.

I know you were. Thought @Reddemonvp44 might have had the 2 locations mixxed up.

You do mean the WTS light dont you?

Are you talking about the return valve on the VP with the return line connected to it? It fits into the upper left hole in the VP. On the new pump below the supply has a black pug and the return has the white plug.

Dont your Raptor pumps have an adjustable regulator on? I ask because the AD165 comes with an adjustable regulator at least mine did back then. Not sure whats inside them since I have had 0 issues with the regulator.

@JAG1 brings up a valid on fuel starvation. They will make alot ifmsomething is blocking the flow. Did you install it? What type of fuel pickup did you use? Mine had the Dodge aftermarket in tank pump. I had to remove that and modify the fuel basket with a kit from AD. I did not have to mess with the fuel screens he mentions as the the in tank pump basket did not have them like the OE basket.

If it works fine with the Quad disconnected I would say your next step is to talk to them. Sounds like the Quad is not picking up the MAP signal. Yours is driving just like mine did when the MAP sensor went south on me.

It definitely has symptoms of a failed sensor or missing signal. Though if it had failed I would you would have a CEL lit. Could be the Quad.

How old is it? I bought my AD 165 about 9 years ago. I could hear it run before start up but never afterwards. that pump failed about 4 years later but never heard any weird sounds. The replacement lasted about 4 years until it failed about a year ago. They replaced it with the 4G. I have to stick my head almost under the truck to hear this one. The pump should run constant no matter the demand from the engine. Though I suppose it could ramp up in RPM some with less resistance from engine demand. I cant mine run with the engine at idle much less hearing while winding up the engine. It could be sucking air into it and causing the sound you are hearing.