trreed

Hmmmmmmm I'm sensing a race! (laughs from 700 hp)

If you go under spec, you don't pre-load the bearings correctly. And tapered roller bearings usually use barrel shaped rollers in the races, so it's important to correctly preload the bearing so the load is carried squarely by the face of the roller. Otherwise the load is carried off-center and wears quicker.

All 24 valve 5.9 valve train (VP and CR) should be identical. I think (and that's a big think) they changed the rocker ratio for the 6.7 models, but the diameter of the trunion should be the same.

Replacing the smarty with a Quadzilla Adrenaline will get you exactly what you're looking for. Adding in the wiretap will help tremendously.

Hope this isn’t your machine shop!

My current favorite modification. sure compounds and 4th gen mirrors are nice, but literally everyone who gets in the pickup notices this one.

The best muffler and resonator I've found is a s475. It's got a nice growl to it, and plenty of turbine noises. But, when I was still single turbo, I was able to get away with just a muffler. Either I don't hear the drone or it doesn't bother me.

The turbo will seem tighter since the oil that is in there probably was spun out of the gap between the shaft and the bearing. I wouldn't worry too much about it. For removal of the valve train, position does not matter. Installation is where you want to torque down the rocker arms with no spring tension, i.e. setting the motor to TDC to do standard valve lash and then torquing intake rockers 1-2-4 and exhaust rockers 1-3-5.

I wouldn't worry about changing the oil. I've installed a handful of different turbos on my pickup, and have only changed the oil once, and that was only because I was an idiot and started it with the feed line completely off. Two gallons of oil went EVERYWHERE (in a span of 30 seconds) before I remembered. 1500 miles on synthetic should still be new yet. And, the oil going into the feed line comes directly out of the filter.

Any oil that you can see in either housing?

Stainless is not necessary. I'm using OE hardware on mine without the locking braces. It just prevents future issues where the steel units rust into the head and snap off.

@dripley, the raised portion of the gasket is just ensures a seal is going to be made. It's designed to be crushed and fill in any valley on the mating surface. It doesn't matter which way they face, but I liked to put all 6 facing the head. I third (or 4th or 5th even) the manifold studs with lock washers. (even though I'm a bad example and am using stock hardware with an aftermarket manifold with no issues)

Depending on how nice (or not nice) you are to it, you might find the clutch to slip rather easily. I'm at the point where my dual disk slipped for the first time the other day and I had to dial it back a touch. So I got gun shy real quick about lots of low-end fuel.

Well with 1/8 of wiretap available off the line, I'm not sure you'll notice the low end anyways! Top end will still be there.

Gotta bring those timing numbers up. My pickup likes 16, 19, 23, 27, 30. Another big key is to pull timing to help the turbo spool. The settings I use are 5* of reduction at 75% scaling, and it brings heavy torque down low. Be careful with that single disk clutch.

We are going to need to see your timing curve as well. One thing of note, is your cruise settings seem to be maxed out, and in my experience leads to poor cruising characteristics (i.e. lots of throttle to move, and excessive fuel consumption)

@dripley, the rear lift is a combination of taller blocks and arched leaf springs.

Spending the extra money on the DOR steering is not worth it to me. It might be to you. I do have a DOR track bar. It's been a solid choice, and I haven't had to mess with it in the 2.5 years its been in service. That part is worth the wait to me.

It's mostly coils, and maybe a spacer at the top.

Usually, heim joints don't last as long in a steering application because of the dirt that can get in them. With the range of articulation they have, any dirt that gets in there really sands down the metal quickly. They may offer dust seals, but those tend to break down quickly as well. And, while easy to replace, heims of that size are expensive! Honestly, I'd recommend the 4th gen T style steering. Cheaper, more easily sourced, and reliable.

The one in the screen shots?

Both items may be necessary. We do need to figure out your tune though. Is there a way for you to share your current tune with us?

Mike this isn't pop pressure. It's about a lot of fuel. He says it's like algebra to him. So point him to the tune repository, make sure he can load a large injector compound tune, and see if anything improves. https://mopar1973man.com/forum/185-standard-quadzilla-adrenaline-tunes/

It depends on what trim level you have. Mine was wired for them, the plugs were just hanging out behind the door panel. Plugged them in, and everything worked right off the bat. Mirrors run off the IOD fuse. That switch looks like it'll work just fine. Another thing. If your new mirrors have heat, you'll have to get a new climate control stack that has the 'Mirror" button in it for heat. That was plug and play for me as well.

Timing and fuel is where all of your power comes from. Even adding a big turbo like a S475 only nets you about 50 more hp. You're in need of a tuner is what it boils down to.