trreed

Removal and replacement is fairly easy. The two bolts holding the exhust downpipe to the elbow are known to snap, so soak those in ATF or PB Blaster for a few days. Why replace the oil supply line? Those don't usually go bad. Cleaning the CAC will be a PITA. Removal and soaking in a detergent like Simple Green may be best. Lastly, you are correct on it being a HX35W. You should be able to find one fairly reasonable. Most of use here are wary of parts store (napa, autozone, etc) or Chinesium turbos. Genuine Holset is usually the easiest bet.

This should help some

No. TST comp is wiretap ONLY. Seriously. Give the Adrenaline a try. I bet you’ll pick it up quicker than you think.

It should have an actuator, which tells me someone got their grubby mitts on it at one point, and removed the solenoid and didn't tune for the absence of the stock parts.

Oh absolutely. "why won't this thing go faster?? WHY WON'T IT SHUT OFF??"

They still drove it 20 miles like that! Crackheads are interesting creatures.

I suppose they could.... but it’s very difficult to tell that there is even a Quadzilla, and if they find it, it’s got a generic name for the Bluetooth. Then theyd have to download the iQuad app, create a tune, and be close enough to you with the truck on to load up any prank tune. Man, that’s a fantastic prank idea. But I’m the only one of my diesel friend group with a quadzilla so I’d be pranking myself.

What tune are you currently running?

It’s alright to be overwhelmed with V2. Like Mike, I’m on my third year of it and am still learning tricks. Don’t give up on it just yet. It’s a delayed gratification thing. You say you don’t have time to learn it, but you do. Once you understand what each variable does, and how it interacts with the tune, you can think of something different you want to change at night, and in the morning, implement it on your way to work. Most recent example i have is my timing reduction settings. I started with the goal that I wanted the turbos to spool faster. I then went back to the article Nick posted above (because I forget all the time what everything does) and figured out that I wanted to adjust both the Low PSI Timing Reduct and the Timing Reduct Scaling, because those two work in conjunction to pull timing. And then during daily driving duties, I messed with the values until I found something that I liked and that the truck responded well to. That’s my whole process for making a tune. Make it simpler chunks.

Can you get a data log for us?

I mean, I picked it up just yesterday and that’s how it came in the box so there’s that.... I intend to carry so it’s not going to stay locked. I don’t have kids around to worry about.

C’mon mike. Box is the ultimate conceal! Who’s gonna know what’s in there??

Compact 9mm with a 10 round capacity. Should be a good conceal carry gun. Made in USA too!

Oh man, on my pervious base flash, I had wiretap set so that when the minimums were met, the wiretap would hit so hard that the truck would buck and squat and then launch into full wiretap. That was a lot of fun. I could even feather the throttle so the transistion process was more drawn out, and the passenger would be wondering what the hell was coming next. The current v2.7.7 flash is a pretty smooth transition IMO.

more fuel, higher timing reduction... that's the way to do that. Understanding the tuning guides is key.

It sounds like an extra reference ground as a "just in case" measure. Ideally, it would be connected to a rod in the ground, or to the third prong on the extension cord.

No, not yet. Been lazier than usual. Let me know when you're in town again, and we can finally go for that beer.

My MAP is very close with the mechanical gauge I have. Within 1-2 PSI when spooling up. For the light throttle advance, I initially thought that my 6x0.013's needed a lot of timing advance as well to properly atomize. However, I found that i'm back in the 19-20* range for cruising. Follow @Mopar1973Man's guide on seeing how low you can get your engine load. That'll be your best bet.

So, because I can’t leave well enough alone, I got some black lights for the new mirrors.

I think it's just part of having larger injectors. Mine does the same thing in the same rpm range, so I just downshift. Its also done it with two different base flashes as well, including the most recent V2.7.7HF But yes, the MAP reading 0 is a problem that should be addressed.

There's more to it than just the dimensions of the wheels... The SXE line of turbos have a few manufacturing differences, namely a larger A/R compressor housing and J-blade turbine wheels give the 62/68 a flow advantage over the HX35's usual smaller A/R compressor housing and straight blade turbine wheels. Blade design and exducer size of the compressor wheel makes a huge difference in the characteristics as well. I'm not sure what style of compressor is used in @Dieselfuture's turbo, nor do I know what blade style his turbine is, so there's a chance that the two are very close in their capabilities, but unless we knew what style Dieselfuture has, it's hard to compare them straight across.

All cylinder pressure comes from the compression ratio and the injection timing. Boost and drive pressure are minuscule compared to the pressure right before the actual ignition event. The head bolts would only fail if the cylinder pressure could overcome their tensile strength. I'm not sure what the STK bolts are rated to, but I doubt you'll have an issue with your setup.

Bigger tubes won't help much when all of the flow hits #1 and #2 cylinders first, expands, loses pressure, and eventually makes it down to #6. For a while I was considering the Pusher intake that has a runner directly to #6, but I figured it wasn't worth it. Btw, this was stock piping with the VPMax boots. My new theory is that this is enough pressure to help push the flow down the shelf to #5/#6.

Advance Auto usually has them out on the floor. It’ll be labeled as an electronic flasher.

Thanks guys. I’ll see what’s around and try these out!