Marcus2000monster

My injectors have 15k miles.

Are Napa map sensors any good? My truck has been thru 3 Napa map sensors in the last 4 months. I’m wondering if they’rs a deeper issue? I have noticed lately that my truck is not running well and don’t sound at all like other 24 valves around. It idles rougher and overall sounds way different. Valve lash is good fuel pressure is good. I have a set of stock injectors I’m putting in soon and I may replumb the entire fuel system as I’m wondering about air in fuel. What you guys think? I’m getting very fed up with how it runs.

Mike you know iv been complaining of similar issues lately? This is almost exactly what my truck sounds like.

Should be the same.

Glad to hear. Hang in they’re old buddy!

I can’t wait to do this. Mine leans to the left badly. Will I need the new leather piece to because mine is perfectly fine. Just saggy.

I have a Fass Titanium 150 but I would follow along with the mechanical pump. Seems like a fool proof design.

Like @dripley said your track bar is holding the axle so if you end up running without a sway bar for a while I think you will be ok.

If it fell out just bolt i5 back together. If it broke off it’s a pain in the back to fix. If you don’t have a welder then plan to take it to a fabrication shop if it’s broken to have a stud welded on. They’re is a nut on the inside of the frame rail and it’s impossible to fix without welding a stud. That is what I did.

This is a sway bar bushing. This could cause the sway bar to fall off and the axle to move around how it wants under the truck. A liitle play is not going to hurt anything it just a pain to steer. Potentially it could cause deaths if something fell off and th truck drove itself off the road. See if the bolt is broken or just fell off?

Yes it is

Welcome to this forum! You will enjoy your stay here! These are the two main tuning guys and I’ll tag them and hopefully they will be able to help you get a good tune set up. @Mopar1973Man @Me78569

The price will be panty dropping unfortunately. I suggest research and doing it yourself. A shop to rebuild the front would likely be in the 4000$ realm. I can’t really explain what it will look like but if they’re is play I think you will be able to tell it. You will feel the bad ball joints not see. My method of ball joint testing is jack up one side at a time and stick a pry bar or similar under the tire and jock it up and down. You will be able to tell if they’re bad I think. You may even hear a clunk if they’re real bad. @Mopar1973Man Is right. I strongly suggest stock size tires and wheels. I just went from 285 to 245 and I hope my front end enjoys that and responds with longer lasting parts. If you wanted to you could have a shop do the diagnosis of worn parts and you could do the repairs yourself.

@Gregturley That looks nice! Mike is right steel does weigh a ton but who cares your goal is to prevent body damage and steel is going to work better for that than aluminum!

Ike I’m glad to hear your expenses have been dropped some. The Lord will always provide!

Seems I have heard that moog parts have went downhill lately and probably since you bought your stuff?

Hopefully mine shape up to!

Thanks I will have to research these!

Well then we will let it be! And just clarify to you and @Kane4sythe I didn’t mean to check ball joints are wheel bearings on the ground. Just steering linkage and steering gear. Work smart not hard is my boss’ favorite motto! To me working smarter is not pulling out a jack and stands. Instead I grab a creeper and a fellow employee.... Not arguing just sharing my method. Both will work!

I respectfully disagree with your method of checking for loose a d damaged front end parts. If you jack it up they’re is no load on the components and likely you will not see the bad parts. The truck must be on the ground IMO. @Kane4sythe Turn the key switch on so your steering won’t lock and have someone rock the wheel as hard and slow as possible while you lay under the front and inspect each component for visable unwanted movement. This is how myself and the professional mechanics I work with find loose components. If your gear box has slack I suggest a Blue Top or Redhead box for a good tight replacement. I haven’t done the t style upgrade so I can’t speak for that but it also sounds like a worthwhile upgrade. A frame brace is necessary if you don’t have one I suggest investing in one immediately I think you’ll be surprised how much it helps. Hope this helps. On on a side note honestly these front ends hold up fairly well for the weight and the torque of the might Cummins Turbo Diesel.

Nope I’ve never touched them. Well I’m finally a member of the skinny tire club! Installed the new Hankook Dynapro AT2 LRE 245/75/16s tonight. Now speedo needs to be corrected as it’s 5 mph off and my other beef with these is that when whipping the wheel around at hiway speed it stays around like crazy and feels dangerous. Why is this? All my old tires never did this. I inflated them to the specs in the door sticker.

That’s why I’ll be feeling a isspro EV2 fuel pressure gauge. I don’t need fuel in my cab! I was going to suggest multi function switch for the fix but looks like you figured it out!

Would theyre be a noticeable power bump if i stuck with my 75s and threw a trurbo on theyre? current mpgs are like 18 19

Is it possible to gain all the power i want with within reasonable levels with turbos and injectors alone? Such as 7x10s and an he351? What would mpgs be?

HAHAHAHAHA thata a good one!