stodg73

Welcome to the site!!! Lots of knowledgable guys here.

Welcome to the site! Lots of knowledgable people on here.

Welcome to the site!!! I like the reference of your screen name. Again, Welcome to the site!

Try pushing the center in, it should go in about 1/8" or so, and then pulling them out carefully. You might need to use a screwdriver to push the center in. If you are careful you should be able to reuse them.

That should be the one, just check with a test light to make sure.

Correct, each fuse would be for different stuff. Just check to make sure that the lights turn off with the switch. Yes, most parts stores have them.

Look for the 5 amp fuse in the inside fuse panel. This is the fuse for the dash lights. Use a test light to verify, and the test with a voltmeter to see if it works. Then use a mini add-a-fuse to tap into the lightswitch.

Here is a Link to a thread on here. My initial cost was about $500 for all the parts and tank. I put the system in myself, so labor was free. While driving today, I used cruise control and there was no surging noted.

The engine is surging in all gears, so the clutch might be slipping. I haven't been towing recently, so I don't think I cooked the clutch. Pepsi, I got about a 3-5 mpg increase in fuel economy with the propane injection.

The engine in my truck is surging. Do you guys have any suggestions? Here is a link for more information. Thanks in advance.

Does anyone have a way to make a switch to not be able to start the truck? It would meed to disable the VP and the starter, because the truck can be bump started. It needs to be put on a switch in the cab, that way it is easy to operate for the owner, and not the thief. Stodg

Got you posted on Cummins Forum in the Colorado Section. Stolen Truck in Denver Area

Looks like you have thought this out quite a bit. Here are some suggestions as to the order of things to do. Like TH said, look at the rear main seal for the leak.

You can use electrical conduit from a hardware store to run the wires in to protect them, just use the clips and bolt them to the frame. Also, for you long trailer, the 33', you can use a wire fish to get the wiring where you need it. I have one of my trailers wired up with both a 7 way and flat 4, that way anyone can pull the trailer. The flat 4 has no brakes though. On the lights, I think it is total width, from the outside of the tire to the outside of the tire. This way you will be legal no matter what. Now, if the trailer was mass produced and it didn't come with lights, then you probably won't need them.

The 7 wire cable is fairly expensiveI bought 30' and it was $100. I wired up my 16' tandem flatbed wth it. My dad pulled it the next day and cut the new cable in half. So, make sure that you put the wiring where it won't get caught/pinched. It does become a pain that you have to cut the jacket off, just do it right the first time and you wont have any problems. My suggestion for your application would be to get the double 4 wires. This way you can put the wires together in a loom and then split them where you need too. I also like the double male end idea with no hanging wires. This would be a cheap repair if it got cut or damaged.

Here is a turn signal assembly.

I found my tank on Craigslist for $75. I just had to wire wheel it and repaint it.

Since 1 gallon of liquid propane translates into about 265 gallons of gaseous propane, would you want even a little bit of liquid propane entering your engine? That is why I use the vapor side of the propane tank, as to not have a huge amount of liquid possibly getting into the engine. Also, most auto propane regulators have a heat port for the coolant flow, to heat the propane just in case any liquid got to the regulator. So, using the liquid side of the propane tank in your truck is very dangerous as there might not be enough heat from the coolant to flash the propane to gas before it hits that engine. Here is the Diesel Propane System that I am using. This system is working quite well for me. I also added another solenoid lockout valve and filter on my system at the tank for safety purposes. Look on Craigslist for DOT approved propane tanks that are from RV's, this way you are compliant with the regulations.

Welcome back! On your turn signal, do you just need the lens or the whole headlight assembly? Hopefully, you will have youur truck up and runnig very soon.

First off, the APPS may need to be reset. So try that first. Second, check all wiring, connections, and grounds for the injection pump, and ECM, especially the ground under the battery on the drivers side. It is ok to erase all the codes with an OBDII, because if you do get it read by a DRBIII the codes will be stored when you get it started again. Just erasing the codes may get it to start. You may need a cam shaft sensor or a crankshaft sensor. You don't need to worry about the 0234, that just means that you got a bit more boost pressure. Since you have the 0253, you may need a new injection pump. Try these other as a start and see if you can get your truck to sart. Others will chime in.

ISX is an Administrator on this site, just PM him. He has a 12v and recently rewired the whole engine compartment.

What he means is that you spelled cummins with a 'g' at the end. There is no 'g' on cummins.

When testing the propane system on my truck, I would listen to the truck run without propane, then turn on the propane, the engine would smooth out, turn off the propane and about 2 seconds the engine would be running like a regular Cummins again. So, the propane being injected into the airstream before the turbo only lasts about 2 seconds before using up the propane. ISX needs to come out here and make a video of my truck with and without propane at idle, that way everyone can hear and see what it does. HINT ISX: Road Trip!!!!

The 30 lb propane tanks should not be used, as they are not DOT approved. I have not had a problem trying to find a parking spot for my truck as yet, and I know that eventually I will, and will deal with it at that time. I know that it will be a longer walk for me.

Propane is not injected at idle, unless you have a positive pressure regulator. This is not a good idea. On my propane set up, the propane is not turned on until 2 psi of boost. I am not sure, but I think that diesel has a lower flash point than propane. I also think that propane helps with burning all the diesel.