stodg73

Here you go: Rear Main Replacement

Mine were hand calculated. I don't have the numbers in front of me right now, but when I get them, I will post them.

That looks like an airtex pump, I have one and mine uses an elbow to hook to the fuel line. That one looks older, so it may be time to replace it with another pump.

Welcome to the Forum!!!! I am sure that there are enough guys on here that we can make up a very good alibi. And, I am sure that we can help you fit the 6bt into that Ramcharger.

I just did another run with the fooler on. I think I have a 143* resistor on mine and I got 18.92 mpg. I used 14.986 gallons and went 283.5 miles, and these are corrected miles due to larger than stock tires. 90% of this was highway driving at 80 mph. There was very little idle time with this also. Some stop and go in town traffic:banghead:.

Down at the bottom left corner you will have a mopar1973man forum in a little box, just click on the box and change it to the 2011 color scheme.

On the 0529 could that be the 0629 - High voltage detected at lift pump.0628 - Low voltage detected at lift pump.These codes might be in relation to each other.

You might try Decon in your truck, or something similar. They eat this like there is no tomorrow and after they die, they don't smell. Also, try putting the Decon out away from the truck and see if they are eating that faster than in the truck. If so, they will not go into the truck as it is easier to find it outside. I do like the 5 gallon bucket and a roller idea, easy cleanup, pour the water down the toilet and flush. For this, we use a ramp to the top of the bucket, 2 screws into the end of a cut to fit broom stick, notched bucket for the screws and peanut butter. They go up the ramp, try to get the peanut butter, fall into the 5" of water in the bottom and drown. Then flush down the toilet. Make sure that the roller can move freely in the notches in the bucket.

Don't blow the brain up. We all need the input!

Welcome to the Site!!

On these I use 16 gauge wire for all. 2 are contious power: IAT fooler(which I need to change to IGN powered) and 3-in-1 Gauge. 2 are ignition power: Power for gauges and propane switch 2 are headlight dimmer switch: Gauge lights. I made 3 Y connectors for power. This way there isn't much power being pulled off of one wire. As these don't use much power and I ran them off the inside fuse panel. As you can see here by the minimal wires used. Each wire runs 2 of the 6 fuses in the block. The mini add-a-fuse is the one powering the dimmers on the gauges(look for the 5 amp fuse). I found these with a test light and a little time. These use 1/4" spade terminals to pull power from the panel. Also, you can see the large black shrink wrapped wiring to the left side of the panel, these are for my gauges. On the grounds, I just went with the closest original body ground. No extra long wire to run. On the wiring, I used the closest sized wire I had, most was 18 gauge wire. The power wires were 16g I think from the inside fuse panel. Most of my wiring goes behind these switches. As you can see the red wire behind the blue switch. However, that blue toggle switch is gone and replaced with a blue LED toggle now.

Like these? I have mine nounted under the steering column. It is a 6 fuse panel, 2 are continous power, 2 are ignition power, and 2 are headlight dimmer powered. This is a mini fuse holder, like the ones used on the inside fuse panel. And, please excuse the wiring, I haven't had a chance to make it 'look pretty' per ISX.

Yes, ACE, Lowe's, Home Depot, they all may have it, but it will be a little more expensive. If you have a Big R in Denver they have 2 gallon cans of kerosene for $22.

Here is a list of BHAF numbers from different mfgs. BHAF numbers NAPA # 2790 Fleet Guard # AH19002 John Deere # PMAH19037 Wix # 42790 AFE # 20-40044 Hastings AF 1012 Carquest # 87790 Caterpillar 3i 0005 Fram CA 6818 It is your call about using a BHAF, I am sure that everyone has an opinion about them.

You can get it at a hardware store, very expensive. You might ask a fuel delivery person if they know.

Welcome, there are lots of knowledgable people on here.

I told you that the engine would sound like its tearing itself apart.

Try these: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CUMMINS-6BT5-9-USED-DIESEL-ENGINE-LONG-BLOCK-CORES-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3a49f23866QQitemZ250348714086QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories http://cgi.ebay.com/Block-Remach-CUMMINS-6B-BARE-BLOCK-/130411772424?pt=BI_Heavy_Equipment_Parts&hash=item1e5d25ba08 http://cgi.ebay.com/Block-Remach-Cummins-6B-6BT-BARE-BLOCK-/130452744233?pt=BI_Heavy_Equipment_Parts&hash=item1e5f96e829

ISX, When I redid the wiring, for a LED lighted switch to know when it is on, I used a positive wire from the switch to the relay, using the same hole for all my gauge wiring, and then to a body ground. This way everything is still a 2 wire hook-up, along with the wiring connectors to the IAT. stodg73

John, if you put a resistor in there permanently, you would not have your grid heaters working. They are controlled by the IAT. I found this out by leaving the fooler on at 10*, let's just say hard and extended starting. The grid heaters turned off in about 5 seconds, when they normally are on for 20-30 seconds at that temperature. About the other, I asked, so you have to talk to the builder.

I had someone build me an IAT fooler for my truck, because I don’t really know how to use a relay and soldering gun. I took a run to Denver and back last Friday and here are the results: going to Denver 18.841 MPG without fooler on, coming back from Denver 20.380 MPG. On this trip, I tried to keep my speed consistent, using the cruise control. Everything in my sig. is current. Yes, the propane was on for both runs, that way there was no difference other than the fooler being on. Out here the speed limit is 75 MPH on the highways, so the 1.5mpg difference should be more drastic as the speed limit is lowered.

I use their stuff too, and keep the receipts also. I know that their stuff breaks and they don't have that high of tolerances, so the more expensive stuff(higher tolerances) I buy elsewhere. I have used that gauge on several trucks and it still works, just make sure to drain the diesel before putting it away. You can also use the flex hose that attaches to the schreader valve for the fuel pressure gauge a snubber hose, for a little while.

Thanks for the kind words. It is alway great meeting someone from the Forums. This is the fuel pressure gauge I was talking about. Again, Thanks!