LiveOak

Just looking at either the Ford 6.7 or the GM 6.6 under the hood in the vehicle just instinctively triggers that distaster thoughts of "Ohhhhhh Gawd.......I would NEVER want to have to work on that complex, convoluted, mess". There is not much room under the hood with those engines. Maintenance must be a total headach. :banghead: I'll stick with my Cummins. Thank you.

Chris, Below is a link to Source Automotive's Formula 1 Mach series injectors: http://sourceautomotive.biz/machinjectors.aspx I would recommend something between the Mach 1.6 and Mach 3 injectors. Yes, they are a bit more expensive but they are among the best injectors out there. Keep an eye out for a used set. You may be able to trade for them or haggle a bargain price. Short of the above, the Bosch RV275's are a very good bang for the buck.

Summer dern sure got here today! It is 92 in the shade and the humidity is horrible. The temperature index is around 108 today. Be careful what you ask for........you just might get it. Got so hot the past few days, I FINALLY had to break down and remove the hood grill loover covers to let in more air to cool the A/C and engine.

With just the F1 Mach 1.6 injectors, I was maxxing out at about 28 psi.

Nice write-up! I sure I will sooner or later be looking for this post again in the future.....but hopefully not too soon. Looks like a sticky candidate.

The best type of wire connections that I have come across are called "environmental splices". While on active duty my avionics guys used these to join electrical and High Frequency radion antenna systems, as well as other critical aircraft systems. If you have an airport with a repair facility near you, you might try asking what they use. They may have something similar. In aviation, wire connections are critical and MUST be protected from any type of environmental hazard that could effect or damage the splice. Another less expensive option is to seal all of your wire connections with "Liquid Electrical Tape". I used this a good bit when repairing and installing wiring in my Sea Ray Sorrento. http://www.plastidip.com/home_solutions/Liquid_Tape_-_Electrical_Insulation This is used a lot in the marine industry. Copper wiring left exposed to water or moisture in a boat bilge or hull will quickly turn into a blue/green mush if not properly protected.

That is a great posted sign! I buy posted/no trespassing signs by the roll of 100 by the case and STILL these trespassing, poaching, fire setting, ATV riding dirtbags just refuse to get the message. :banghead:

Wow! This is the first I have heard of this. I orders a case of 12 FF5613's fuel filters and 4 of the FS19768 water seperator filters back in February of 2009. I got the filters delivered to me about 10 days later. I have been trying to contact Tristan for a month now with no replies. Seems like there is NO END to folks who don't run their business on the up and up. I would think he could at least return phone calls or emails. Tristan had been a registered member on my website and I DID formerly have a sponsor ad up for his Fleetguard Filter Store. As of this morning I just deleted it. I am not sure what I can do to help but if I can be of help, please let me know. I don't think any of us wants a vender out there who runs their business like this. I feel like a dumbass now. I guess we all get snookered once in awhile. The other sponsor ad for MAK I KNOW is good because my wife is the office manager there and my daughter works at Jeanette's and I have eaten there several times to my great satisfaction. Sorry to hear about your experince with Tristan. This dude is getting crossed OFF my list of venders. THANKS for the heads up. If you want a reliable source of great quality filters, I have since switched over to Baldwin filters that I have found to be MUCH cheaper but as good or better quality than Fleetguard filters. Both are great filters but when I can order by the case and get an oil filter that is pretty much an equal replacement for a Fleetguard LF3894 for $4.79, I decided to switch over to Baldwin filters for all of my trucks, tractor, and other vehicles. I buy my Baldwin filters from BF Web Express: http://www.bfwebexpress.com/ I have ordered from these guys 3 times in the last year or so and each time the filters show up via UPS within about a week.

Hey Mike, if you want some really interesting ideas about off grid power with respect to what worked well and what didn't, here is a link to a post of a couple here in TN that went off grid. In addition to all of the building, landscaping, well, and other issues, they had a picture loaded large number of posts on their electric power set up. It is kind of a long read but their is a wealth of info. in the entire thread. I have it book marked. http://www.city-data.com/forum/tennessee/359683-going-off-grid-east-tennessee.html I wish I had half the skill and imagination this couple has. Mike and Lisa were just amazing in how they were able to pull this off and end up with such a beautiful place. I figured, this thread might help you out with some ideas.

I lucked out and my VP threw a P0216 code about 2 weeks before the end of the 5 yr./100K warranty. I had the dealer replace it and my share of the cost was about $135. It has been working good since then. I just have the Edge and F1 Mach 1.6 injectors installed. The mechanic did a real clean and nice install. I could hardly tell he had been under the hood except for the tamper tape on the injector pump plug being torn. Mine has been running for almost 3 years since replacement and still running strong.

When I installed the DSS on my truck, it made a noticable improvement in steering wonder and improved how the steering tracked down the road. I have one in the garage that I am going to install on the wife's truck. Here is an example of one: http://www.pdrdiesel.com/products/DSS_Steering_Stabilizer_1994_02_4X4-668-17.html perhaps some of the vendors here may have them and at a better price. It was not too difficult to install and although it is not a 100% fix, it is a noticably good improvement. If the steering alignment does not help, I would suggest looking at the track bar. You can install newer style track bars that make a big improvement and the OEM steering shaft has just never been very good, even when new. The combination of the DSS, new style track bar, and Borgeson steering shaft I think will make a huge improvement provided your steering box does not have excessive play in it. http://www.genosgarage.com/prodinfo.asp?number=BORG-000940 Genos now carries the Borgeson steering box as well. From what I have read, this is a much better box than the OEM. http://www.genosgarage.com/prodinfo.asp?number=BORG-800112 Combines all of this is a lot of money so the best bet is to start with the worst areas of the suspension.

Just speculation but I guess wet, or rainy humid are has less oxygen per unit of air and I would imagine that wet roads may have a slightly higher rolling resistance.

On my ruck, the low pressure side port is right in between the air filter box and turbo in close proximity to the air box. The high pressure side port is behind the passenger side head light like ISX described. You can buy one of the recharge kits at Wally World that comes with a charge hose and gauge. I did it this way this year since I had a leak and charge the system with a kit that had oil, R134A, and stop leak. Attach the charge hose to the can. Then attach the charge hose to the LOW PRESSURE port back by the air box. Now back the charge hose connector off a half turn or so until you can hear and feel a good stream of R134A escaping. This is to purge the charge hose. Once you hear and feel the R134A escaping from around the threads, retighten. NOTE: If there is NO freon pressure in your A/C system when you attempt to recharge it with freon (R134A), you will need to evacuate the A/C system with a vaccum pump. Otherwise you may have moisture in the system that can freeze up and cause problems. Now start the engine up and turn the A/C on and up to max and fan to max. Allow the A/C system to operate a minute or so to reach equilibrim and then press the button/valve on top of the freon can to allow the freon to be drawn into the A/C system. NOTE: If you hold the can right side up, it take forever for the freon to be drawn into the A/C system. I turn the can up side down so the freon will go in faster as liquid. Some folk may or may not agree with method . Use the method you feel comfortable with. Observe the gauge on the charge hose. In the heat of the day for most areas, the low side pressure should read around 45 psi but refer to the chart in the shop manual for the proper ambient temp. and low side pressure combination. Once you have reached an acceptable low side pressure or the can is empty, release the button/valve and remove the charge hose from the low side port. You're done! This is the poorman's/cheap guy's method. The proper method is to use a proper set of gauges, like Mike did, hooking up to both low and high pressure side ports. Use a thermometer in the A/C output vent to verify correct temp. If no or little freon pressure is present when checking for proper operation, use a vaccum pump to evacuate and dry out the system. I like to hold a vaccum for about an hour to ensure any condensed water and vapor is removed. With the prices dealers and shops charge to service A/C systems, you can buy all of the equipment and freon much cheaper and do it yourself. Anyhow, I gues I made it clear as mud and left you even more confused now? (I'm good for that) Mike's write-up is EXCELLENT with some great pics that help guide you. Follow his directions and you should be fine.

Have you talked to someone who can reflash the ecm software to raise rpm limiting to 4000 rpm? I don't think a SMARTY can do this but those folks may be able to help you achieve this.

Why not just wire the pump directly to the battery with the ECM plugged into a relay to control the power coming from the battery. This is the way the these pumps are supposed to be wired. Not sure why you would want to wire it another way unless I missed something. (I AM great for doing that ) I believe you can by the extension wire for the ecm to the relay from Vulcan Performance. I believe they also sell a wiring kit for the batter to pump too. Call Eric and ask him about this. I am confident he can get you squared away.

My call would be for a weak or bad valve lifter. What grade and viscosity of oil does your father use. I would also pay close attention to the brand and type of oil filter he uses. Could be the anti-drain back valve in the oil filters he is or was using were not working well. A good quality oil filter and correct grade and viscosity oil can make a difference. On another note, it is not uncommon of this to gradually occure as more mileage, wear, and age gets put on an engine.

Are you running a boost elbow in unison with your Edge? Or some type of turbo waste gate control to allow the boost to exceed 20 psi?

I think you answered your own question. That would have been my call too.

I wait and let it idle until the EGT showing on the guage at least 300 or below. Probably a little overkill but I figure better safe than sorry. It doesn't take but an extra minute or so depending on how much of a load was on the engine.

I didn't brush the injector bores out on mine when we replaced the injectors.

I am still on my original OEM set of brakes. I used the exhaust brake whenever possible. Makes the brakes last a lot longer.

I agree with the above that the RV275 injectors are the best bang for the buck. Only reason I went with the F1 Mach 1.6 injectors was the a friend has a set of them and an Edge EZ for sale $400 that he took off of his truck because he said they smoked too much. The injectors by themselves did smoke like a freight train but with the addition of the Edge EZ, BHAF, and 5 inch straight pipe exhaust, they run really clean and STRONG under normal use but will kill a few mosquito's if I mash the go pedal to the floor under low boost conditions. I should also point out that this combination requires a much stronger clutch as my OEM/stock clutch will slip if I am not careful about applying the power. Too much power with a heavy load is out of the question as it will badly slip the stock clutch. My stock clutch is still is good condition so I am going to try to make it last but when the time comes to replace it, I will be installing a South Bend clutch and slave cylinder.

I think I miss read or miss understood your intial post. The shop called you to tell you that they broke the #6 injector line? If that is the case, at least they were honest and were straight up with you about it. "Sheet" happens sometimes. Sounds like they are trying to make it right.

Not sure if I would want that shop touching my truck EVER again. You might be better off repairing it yourself or a trusted source of help, friend, etc. No point in giving them another opportunity to do more damage to your truck.

You might want to seriously consider changing out the old slave cylinder with a South Bend slave cylinder. My understanding is that they do make a noticable difference and improvement.