Silverwolf2691

Proper ceramic coat from Swaintech or similar might work better than wrapping.. Proper meaning a thick, rough, porcelain colored coating.. surface is also good to get a top coat of flame proof black plaint to keep the jarring white color at bay.. Cerakote is more paint with ceramic in it. Not happy with the cerakote results on my brothers jeep headers.. still melted some plastic bits under hood.. Might be my dislike of exhaust wraps in general also coming through.. Any cloth that is attached to metal that can hold moisture just screams bad idea to me at least..

Smaller housings are better for spool, larger for power. You could also check out power driven diesel's ultimate towing twins. Its a k27 and an s369 if memory serves.. its meant for 5-600hp and fast spool. Wonder if you can call them and ask to keep the gxe instead of swapping everything.. Some turbo sizes for comparison. Ignore the prices, also list is reference only and may not be perfectly accurate.

Id expect that from the Aussies more than the UK ..

Welcome to the family!

Welcome to the family!

@IBMobile, how is your truck handling the 4.10s with that small of tire? After rereading, you have an auto.. Lower final I think can handle the 4.10s and not be spinning to the moon.. 4x4 with 4.10s, NV5600, and 35s here.. Does rub on full right lock but thats partly from the control arms and partly due to a piece of the bumper being bent..

To me, i think it will be too big of a cam. S300 and 7x009s arent big enough in my opinion to need that big of a cam. You are also mentioning not needing the rpm capabilities of it. I just dont want you to spend money on something that is not matched to driving style and build. The stage 2 I think would be better for your purposes. You could also call and ask colt, hamilton, and like no limit mfg for their recommendations. The hard part is cams move as well as add to the hp curve. Going too big in a cam can pull the low end (off idle power) down and raise high end but also push the curve higher in the rpm range.. possibly a more narrow rpm band with a peaky, less broad torque curve. And a reminder, no diesel (except a non turbo, i think) will cam like a gasser from a cam swap. That needs manifold vacuum and overlap.

All good bud, text cant convey tone efficiently. Not the first and wont be the last lol.

Didnt know it was at the flywheel to begin with. Hense why it was an increase in my math.. Learned something today.

https://www.enginelabs.com/news/torque-talk-pound-feet-foot-pounds-one/ Alright fair enough.. but foot pounds still rolls of the tongue nicer... @Royal Squire, not yet..

I think its more of a guidline than an actual rule for making power estimates. Also why i used the term ricer math.. add up all the advertised hp ratings and thats what it should be on the dyno.. rarely does that play out like that though..

For daily driving, honestly, stock or a 178/208 at most is all you need. Big turbo or racing is when the famous 188/220 comes around to help spool turbos. It also pulls the power band up higher in the rpm range. Due to the semi hard limits of the vp44, the 188/220 is too high up in the rpm range to make good use of the cams effective range. Even the guys on compd say to put money towads other upgrades before a cam. Most of the time they say to port and polish the head before putting a cam in.

Cummins is roughly 1hp to 2ft/lbs. Ricer math says 335hp, so that makes 670 ft/lbs.. Not sure about drivetrain loss but i see 20% tossed around often as an average. 670 x 1.2 = 804 so @Mopar1973Man's math checks out.

Been mulling over the MAP sensor issue ive been having.. Been trying to figure out how a MAP sensor functions and i wonder if the resistance is too far in one way or another but still within tolerance. And because of that it takes some time to register boost.. Spit balling is all..

7x010s with a hybrid and a quad is really good. 7x011s with a 63mm? Turbo might be a bit better. I think a cheetah is a 63mm turbo. VCO vs SAC, its a difference of not much.. VCO flows more on the high hp end and is slightly quieter. In the mid HP level the SAC nozzles are a bit better. They are a bit dirtier but micro blind has made things much cleaner. I prefer new bodies personally..

W-T mod is something to look into as well. AC noise is murder on 2nd gen electronics.

Far as im aware the sets you got is the 6.7 design. I think @Dieselfuture had that style installed..

Didnt know lash could go that tight. Previous time i did lash was .008 intake and .018 exhaust as that was my understanding of what i thought were the limits..

@Mopar1973Man, you posted the heat treat color while everything is glowing. Once past 730-750, the color actually goes away and light starts being emitted (glowing). The color is also a high level mark with no way to go back downand start over .

So the galling on the trunnions is not a fatal issue, an issue that plagues all of the cummins for sure, but not fatal.. When i brought the parts to one of the model shop guys at my previous job essentially the cast iron was being cold welded to the hardened trunnions. The damage was more on the rocker itself vs the trunnion. Id wager factory pushrods as well.. orange band was the giveaway..

If the push rods are larger than stock, well smoking gun there.. Aftermarket sizes are 3/8, 7/16, 12mm, and i think 1/2 inch on the high end competition level. The galling on the trunnions is an unfortunate thing that happens even on factory parts.. happened on mine with factory springs. The blueing is normal.. its a heat treat on the ends to absorb the impact. But the softer rod keeps things just flexible enough to not crack or break. The extra mushrooming im not sure of..

His truck, your truck, and mine all only have the cam sensor. The crank sensor was done away in '99 or '00. @Stanley, what do you mean by syringe sound? Like a hissing sound? Might need to crank on the fittings more? I think I know what the fittings for the head/line/crossover tube interface are based on but I would need measurements to be sure. The fitting style is called an Autoclave or generically, an extreme pressure fitting. They are rated for like 15ksi on the low end and 150ksi on the high end. (ksi is thousand psi. ex: 150ksi = 150k psi = 150,000psi). They are a metal to metal seal like AN fittings so in theory if its leaking slightly just tighten down a bit more? Within reason of course.. 28 ft-lbs is the recommended torque but there is also the injector hold down vs line tightening sequence.. The injector hold down is torqued last after tightening the injector line fitting..

There have been a handful of VP 6.7s made. If I remember correctly you need different connecting tubes, the entire gear train swapped over and the timing case modified I think.. The gears in a VP44 truck are helical cut but 6.7s are straight cut. The crank gear is a royal PITA to swap because the press fit is so tight (one of the ones I read about was, might have been exception vs the norm). It would be easier to get a billet timing case and cover than to do the modifications needed on stock parts I think (not sure on this after rereading some forum posts). Keep the CR head, it flows better. As a reference, search for p-pumped 6.7s. The majority is the same except the different timing case and injection pump. https://www.enginebuildermag.com/2021/01/dotw-vp44-6-7l-cummins/ https://www.cumminsforum.com/threads/vp44-on-6-7-block.2024442/

I mean I posted a while ago about a second gen that had 69 miles on it that auctioned for 76k.. For a second gen, Figure a frame off restore of every nut, bolt, wire, and part, bring it to essentially zero miles, that's gotta grab 45k+ easily. Even more depending on what you do for go fast parts and what paint job you are striving for.. Show quality all the way down to a "looks good at 10 feet away" paint job..

I have a feeling you are hitting the choke point on the 12cm housing but that isn't supported by the plugged off wastegate.. I wonder if the center wall is not drilled.. HX35s only relieve the back 3 cylinders when the wastegate opens.. Could be an efficiency thing? IDK I'm stretching for answers at the moment.. Wait.. were your tests wastegate plugged or functioning? and what half of the motor are you reading from? first three or last three? Might (should) see differences front half and back half of motor with a working wastegate and a non-drilled turbine housing..