ISX

The only real fix is to fix the mainshaft by replacing it with a fully splined one. It's called the torque king shaft at this website. http://quad4x4.com/NV4500_Transmission_Kits.html The nut just screws back on and pushes the gear back onto the splines, then it will work fine, but it will just come off later down the road. If you have a 4wd you should probably do something now since it's a little hard to get to. You can tighten it back up and use the updated nut but it will usually just spin back off. Mine seems to do it every 50k miles or so. To prevent it you should keep RPM's over 1900 when your in 5th, less than that and the engine power strokes become a hammering effect on the nut, breaking it loose. I simply tighten mine back up and call it good, but I have a 2wd so it's a 20 min job. It is pretty expensive to get that torque king mainshaft, but it fixes the real problem. You can get updated nuts and tighten it real tight and it might hold for a while. I truly believe keeping it over 1900 AND not letting off and stepping on it (working the play of the gear, which also hammers the nut of course), keeps it from happening, but I like running under 1900 so I pay the price of 20 min.. This is my writeup on the basics of it http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/5th-gear/5th-gear.htm You can weld it but that really isn't the best idea..

I think everyone has one of those as a backup, I have several, but you can't beat a laptop for traveling. They just break so easily, the only way they won't is if you open it and put it on a desk and never shut it or open it again, so basically, use it as a desktop lol.

.....all to save a piece of paper Maybe you can work on this too, laptop's monitor finally gave out, waiting for a good price on a new monitor, until then....

http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/troubleshooting/12v_fuel_solenoid.html

Check for air leaks! There really isn't much else, as long as fuel pressure is getting to the IP and the fuel shutoff solenoid is working, it should run. What is he doing to get it to run the 3-5 seconds? Just flooring it? When you prime the fuel system if 3-5 secs is all it runs then it is sucking the fuel system back dry, the lift pump isn't pumping or something is clogged or something is leaking.

Nobody was around and I spent 10 min wondering if I should do it. After several trial runs I saw no reason why it couldn't be done. I did still have a problem with going 80mph through that deep of water, but I figured it was just a personal problem so I ignored it lol. Yes I will still ride, I rode the 4 wheeler through the trails and almost flipped it 2 days after I got out of the hospital, and again 2 days after that. I just grab my right arm with the left arm and put it on the handlebar, then grip the bar so that my arm don't fall off it since I can't hold it there, then I do all the hard work of turning with the left arm. I wasn't expecting any sympathy here, just thought you guys would find the pics interesting...I know what I did sounds stupid but to me it's just like any other thing, like driving through st.louis sounds stupider to me lol.

I'm getting better. I used to do motocross but stopped doing that after the first accident. Now I just do trails and stuff which has proved to be very safe. What I did this time was kind of a fluke where I was out on my own and wanted to see if this could be done. I had done it many times before so I wasn't expecting the back end to go nuts. It will heal up and I will be back to doing just the trails. I go very fast on the trails but it is a lot easier to control, the only times I fall are at 5mph. Just because riding has its potential hazards of physical damage doesn't mean they are a bad thing. You live life to learn from mistakes, if you never make a mistake you will never learn. You can learn from other's mistakes but a lot of times there isn't any info on a certain thing (like what I did), now there is, so you guy's know not to try what I did lol. Even if you are careful your entire life, stay at home and exercise, you will end up getting cancer or something. A flawless life is nonexistent so you can screw it up on your own or let nature screw it up, but one way or another it will get screwed up. The important thing is to flow with the flaws that arise and make the best out of them. I can't use my right arm so I am forcing myself to become left handed, I think its a blast. Maybe I am just ate up but when life throws me a challenge I absolutely love to figure out a way around it, same with our trucks. Everything also poses a risk. You risk your life just driving down the road, I risk mine on my dirt bike, but I feel more comfortable on my dirt bike than on a road full of other people who could swerve into my lane at any second. I am so comfortable on my bike that I didn't have any doubt about the hydroplaning not working so I didn't see much of a risk and just went for it. Now all the flaws come out in 20/20 so I can learn from it. It's life. In retrospect, I wouldn't take back a single accident that has happened to me, they are worth a lot to learn from. Now maybe someday I will take a risk so big that I end up killing myself, but the way I see it the food we eat these days is about the same risk, same as driving down the interstate among many other things.

No video, no nothing. Nobody was around. I just happened to have my cell phone with me so I just called my brother and told him to bring back the 4 wheeler cause we got a problem lol. I just wonder why it fishtailed. We took the 4 wheeler through it and there was a tree root in it and some ruts that may have thrown me off. If I knew the back tire wasn't able to sink low enough to hit the obstacles below the surface of the water, I uh, might try it again lol. I mean I did make it and it was pretty well staying on top of the water as planned, just fishtailing. But the guy I ride with didn't have anyone to ride with (I did this Wednesday and he showed up Friday) so I won't do it again just for his sake. Plus the bike might not take the brunt of the damage next time.. So I shall keep from doing that again. I haven't driven my truck either since I can hardly get my arm lifted onto the shifter, let alone pull it into gear. I didn't even ride in it on the 4 hour drive home.

Been riding all week and I decided to hydroplane across this huge water hole. It's about 100Ft long and 1-3ft deep. I tested several shallower areas to get the feel for it since I have never tried a water hole that long. I do this with the bike topped out which is over 80mph so I don't exactly want to screw up Of course, all hell broke loose and the back end got to tail whipping which at 80+ is not good and it whipped harder and harder until throwing me off the bike and who knows what happened after that. I don't remember hitting the ground or seeing the bike hit the ground. I didn't get wet though, so I made it!! The resulting damage... Start with the bike I suppose. The bike was 100ft from where I ended up on the ground, I don't think it rolled that far exactly As for me, somehow I made off with legs bruised really bad and my shoulder muscles got stretched, they called it some sorta "AC" something. Anyways here is the x ray showing, well I don't know what it shows, the bones were fine I guess so I don't see how they could see the muscle. What they told me was it heals on its own, they used to do surgery on this type of injury but did more harm than good so now they just give you job excuses because all you need is time. Thing is, because the muscle is stretched, it kinda let the arm hang down with it and it will just renew itself like this. What I mean is when you look at this pic you can see one of my shoulders is more squared off and the other has 2 humps, the 2 humps one (your left in the pic, ok holding the camera kinda offsets this) is the one thats messed up. Now I got a month vacation instead of a week, guess I can stare at my truck. I can't do anything with my arm (bad enough that it's my right arm) because it pulls on those muscles. Seems to be healing quickly since I managed to get it to the keyboard (hurt too much the other day). Just figured I would share, thought it was all kinda neat, well maybe not neat as much as expensive but now you all know what not to do hahaha, buy a damn boat instead.

Just pulled around 700 miles over the past week, today was almost 100F outside. I DON'T run a fan, even pulling our trailer which probably all added up to 6k lbs this time and I beat the crap out of it at 70mph the entire time. Coolant runs around 200F but up some 7% grades I was seeing 205, maybe more. It may have hit 210 when I was going up a 7% grade at 60 and was accelerating to 70 up the hill in 5th (passing dump truck). Going slow (under 10mph) is the only time I saw an issue, and it was a slow heat rise issue. The heater actually pulls all the heat the engine produces at <10mph. It's not the greatest to be running the heater full blast on a 100F day but it does the trick I got a plan B in the works that will top any fan.Checking the thermostat would be my top priority in your case, then clean the radiator fins if they are dirty, then check the fan. One of those will surely be the culprit.

Dually that is awesome! I am on "vacation" and because I try and please everyone I had to go to branson and ride dirt bikes with that guy, I'm back home and now I gotta go to st. joe state park and ride with those guys, all pulling our trailer like a bat out of hell and the chart you made is dead nuts to what I saw. I don't know what it is without the trailer since I get around 23mpg the whole time but with the trailer I pretty well matched your graph mile for mile. I still have a little less than half a tank to burn off but it will be all trailer pulling mileage and then I can see what I got. Were you pulling anything?An interesting thing is it was 90F today and I still can't break 900F EGT at 70+mph up some 7% maybe steeper grades, trailer in tow. Boost was up to 20psi to hold 70mph, usually 15psi was enough. I wish I remembered how high it got stock. I was running it so hard I was at 207F coolant temp, it stops at 192F unloaded usually but the hills were longgg and I was in a hurry to get more ride time in Will be the same story tuesday morning when I go another 3 hours, cept the hills are even longer

The factor that makes or breaks the deal is the fuel gauge. It says full...buy it.

I planned on telling him he is screwed if he doesn't want to spend any money. I forgot about the breather thing on the 24V's. He told me he hasn't touched it since he bought it so I imagine everything is backed up and clogged and all wore to hell. I've never seen his truck I've just heard rumors about it He has been wanting someone to do this for years if that tells you anything. I might not have time to even work on it. It's got 12 too many valves anyways

No codes (reread my post) surely has no fuel pressure gauge or anything. He isn't going to want to spend any money on it so I guess he's SOL on a new lift pump should he need one, which I'm sure he does. I guess everything you do on a 24V costs money so I'll set his valves and check over the rest including brake drag and send him on his way. No way he is gonna spend a dime on it other than the dime he pays me. There's a reason it has went so long unmaintained.. Guess I can clean his injectors

Sister graduated yesterday and somehow word is out that I know how to play with diesels and a guy hit me up with his 24V saying he wants to give it a tune up. This means set his valves (apparently has never been done, ever, after 160k miles) and check over some other things. I imagine being a 24V I should clean his map sensor and what else is there to check on those things? Now the thing is he went from 18 when new and has dwindled down to 12, I would think if his valves and sensors were off/dirty it would constitute the drop but what other things is there that would cause this? I don't think he has any codes or anything, just never had any maintenance done in it's life out of neglect.

Still no problems here. 313KB/s transfer rate even

NO! Why do you think mine is broke I didn't mean to turn it but there was some gear play and... It would be much wiser to just keep it in the middle of the hole rather than try and lock it. That lock should only be used after the timing gear nut is loose and there is no chance of turning the injection pump. --- Update to the previous post... I am actually thinking timing isn't the issue here, but it's easy enough to check. I believe you probably have the stock 3" exhaust, muffler and all. I would look into straight piping it as that will get it flowing better. I would also do the AFC mods and move the fuel plate back. Truth be known, these trucks stock WERE a dog. The AFC is where most of the problems lie. You can do a lot more and get it to where it lights up at 1500 or lower, like mine, but it is best to tinker with it yourself and figure out what each thing does since these trucks have no ECM to run the engine so you can't just put a chip on it and say "more power". Chips do many things to many variables that we have to do one by one on our 12V's, which can be nice at times and a chore at other times.

I just made an article, sending it to mike to put in the 12V writeups. I'll tell him to link it back here when he gets done since I am hardly on anymore.

This might help. I did it on mine and it's pretty easy. http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/clutch-hyd/clutch-hyd.htm

Didn't think of that, mine seems to self lubricate everything

I had to go to a tyson plant and I was right next to their huge tank of "chicken". It's basically a maybe 4ft wide, 4ft deep, 12ft long tank with this brown stuff in it. It looks like oatmeal only its the same color as the outer skin of a chicken nugget. That tank is basically, "liquid chicken". Mmmmmmmmmmmm

Why do I keep forgetting about this. I have pulled the trailer several times and I can say that.....I can't tell a difference. My wastegate opens instantly when I get to 35psi and stays shut any time before then because of a special overflow valve I put in and I haven't got enough boost to tell if it is working or not. But as for drilling the hole in the turbo, during nonwastegate opened conditions, I can't tell any difference at all. My EGT's are really low but they were low before so I can't say the crossported hole did it. Pulling our trailer at a constant 70mph I cannot break 900F egt even at 85F ambient up 7% grade hills, nothing will make it break that temp. Passing people with the trailer I can get above it but driving sane at a constant 70 will just not go over it. Got 17mpg pulling it the constant 70mph for 300 miles so it's still on top of it's game This trailer.. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=210&d=1259508018

Sounds like he has a problem with the governor or something inside the pump. It could also be as simple as the cable since I think there was a recall on it. So a fray in the steel part of the cable could hang up inside the outter plastic part at a particular spot that has a cut in it or something. With the truck off, he should be able to push the pedal down about a 1/2"-3/4" and hit a different hard spot (this is where the rack stops moving and all you do is compress a spring) and then it should move smoothly too the floor (though it will be harder because of the spring). See if that does anything or if it is just an engine running situation. If it does it with the engine off I am betting it is a cable hang up issue.

I got my truck running a few weeks ago and finally got to the end of that $2.95 tank of diesel that was still in it. I filled up at $3.93. The thing that now gets me is that gas was $3.85, 7 cents cheaper. What happened to being 30-40 cents cheaper? I don't know what is going on, but I like it. Now the gassers can't say anything about being cheaper. Unless they are getting like within .5mpg of me, they aren't cheaper. A guy at work raced me in his new chevy and I raced a couple duramax's and drove like a bat out of hell for a long time, only the last 3/8 tank was driven for mpg. After beating him on the street, I asked what mpg he got. He said 12. I just filled up the tank I raced him on and texted him 22.47mpg That was even winter fuel from January that I finally burned up just today, 732 miles worth.

Over my course of time with using windows, I have figured out you don't need all that antivirus crap. I have a little free one but I don't need it. I believe there is no way for a virus to just "get" on your computer. I think you get them when you click on links in emails or attachments or go to websites you shouldn't be at. With that said, you can always switch to windows 7 and it will be faster, at startup anyways. I put that SSD in my sisters laptop which is identical to mine and it sped hers way up...to the speed it takes 7 to start up on mine and I don't have an SSD. Now once the OS is loaded, hers just blows the doors off everything as everything is instant. You can click on any program that you have never used and it pops up instantly. You no longer need to defrag either. I don't know what vista does in comparison to 7 during startup, I disabled and deleted a ton of stuff on hers including many many services and all kinds of stuff but it still lets that scroll bar go across 5 times before going forward. There are many features that are really nice in 7 that aren't in vista as well. I would like to get an SSD with XP since it would pretty well start up without even showing the scroll bar I'm guessing. I never had any issues with XP unlike a lot of other people and I hate how vista and 7 always have to load network computers for 30 seconds before I can click on them. Post some screenshots of this linux thing.