mr.mindless

I'd LOVE another convex there.... If anyone finds a good application post up.I'd bet a lager plastic round could be trimmed to fit but I've never tried.

Be aware that coming out of a reefer or most any other industrial app, a mechanical engine should have an RPM governor not a load governor - meaning accelerator position will give you a set RPM rather than a set fueling level.Most of the time this can be switched out without changing the whole IP but it's something you should be aware of.

6+" of snowblower clogging stick-to-your-shovel crap here.I'm biking through it, it's great

Turnabout last night due to a broken #4 injector line on his hog. His replacement line was only $23! Hate him a little for that....

crank position sensor was my first thought.... does it register RPM on the tach?I believe for OBD-1 you'll need to ground a specific pin in the connector, and while grounded it will do the CEL flash. I don't know which pin off the top of my head.

I'd prefer 4' of snow to 4" of mud any day of the week, and I'm sure if I did something wrong I could find a foot of mud real quick. yeck.

I'd expect a measurable difference in drive pressures with one side being wastegated and the other not.... but that's strictly off the cuff.

I think potential liability for "gross negligence" may apply. That said I'd probably have no issues running the camper, nor do I think if properly prepped it's a negligent setup. IANAL either.

I just can't stand the damn mud. I can't even walk or ride my bicycle across the yard without leaving tracks, the truck sank the steers 4" when I got off the driveway backing in around my garbage cans monday afternoon

Related to your comments Rogan, I'm now cursing my rear-bank EGT probe as I'd expect the front 3 to be hotter without wastegate release

Not that I've yet put shop air to my wastegate to test it, but I wonder if this may be the cause of my overboost issue with the potentially increased flow from the 24v head??

You're looking at the exhaust brake wrong.... if that's how you're treating the exhaust brake it's ONLY slowing the wheels that you want the LEAST braking on - your drives. Unless you're towing in 4x4 of course. The mechanical brakes of the tow rig and trailer should really be treated as one, all working in sync. You don't want to overwork your trailer brakes - unless of course you're borrowing someone else's trailer

5600 is still small and cute after dealing with a twin countershaft HD trans :stuned:660#

People don't seriously spend that kind of money on a relay kit do they?? It's $5 in fuse holders and connectors, 2 junkyard pocketed mini relays and 10' of wire I could MAYBE make it cost like $25 if I tried, and got a female headlight socket for plug n play and sockets for brand new relays, and split loomed everything.

Hopefully your customer's '05s treat him well and you won't have TOO terribly much reason to stop in here!I'm a fellow newbie, but this seems like a darn good - and helpful/ knowledgeable - group!

1,000,000x cleaner than my garage. AND your truck fits in it too

twisting input probably from giving myself too much clutch for the trans (twin disc south bend on a stock 1-1/4 shaft instead of 1-3/8 upgrade), 5th was a plain old bad part. I never lugged it, just started making awful noises and I found 2+ teeth missing when I pulled it apart. High Gear gave me a little bit of a deal on the replacement gear ($100 shipped I think?) well outside the warranty period (90 days) so I wouldn't say stay away from them, I'll just stick with staying away from the little transmissions.If it's just a driver and you aren't grossing 20k+ all the time though I'm sure it'll be fine. And clearly plenty of others are fine too. I'll just preach my sermon from Mount Eaton and enjoy the gear split unsyrchronized glory

Well I stuck a couple grand into a fresh clutch and reman 4500 from High Gear and it lasted me 18,000 miles :duh:Broken 5th gear teeth and twisting input shaft. I guess that's what I get for $1000 raman

100% agreed. --- Update to the previous post... That's something I can look at in my PIII.

I had something very similar to those on an '84 RamCharger I had. I think it used a piston in the controller, and the gain was adjusted by turning a knob to adjust the angle and therefore proportianal pressure. Fantastic and foolproof, I loved that controller.I really like the 100 braking ability but without trailer ABS certainly see that as a risk too.... I'll have to do some more reading on those guys.

Pulled them as part of pulling my engine.... I would not try to hold up a 1200# engine with a "board"..... a 4x4 maybe - but I'd worry about what I was pushing against. Get a hoist and do it right, or build a relatively strong A frame to hang the weight of the engine from on its front lifting loop off the frame or ground.

truck scales have different pads to give you your axle weights - just make sure you're on the right pads with your axles - with shorter lengths it's easy to get screwed up.then you can just weight your rig, drop the trailer and reweigh, and you have all your weights incl tongue weight (difference in gross weight - trailer axle weight = tongue weight)

The Quad4x4 shaft is the only way I'd go. That said, I wanted smaller gear splits than the 4500 offers. FSO/RTO (or RTOO) is the way to go. As long as you're into something a little more than a bolt-on as fas as the clutch, shifter, air supply, floor, etc.... --- Update to the previous post... Granted they're selling their own stuff, but they've sold me. This is the one and only true fix as far as I'm concerned. I'm "picking up what they're putting down" if you will. Perhaps "buying what they're selling" - though I didn't... http://quad4x4.com/NV4500%205th%20Gear%20Failures%20and%20Solutions.htm

I've got a Prodigy PIII. I was really looking for an Odyssey because of its presets.I have a mystery short somewhere that throws my PIII into overload/no brakes once in a while, drives me nuts. Thought it was an iffy magnet, but it's lasted through a complete brake job on the trailer.What do YOU use, and how do you like it?

Mike, I never noticed those under bumper lights. I bet those would last about 15 minutes with me at the wheel :)Neat conversion ed. I would really like to build something I can put on the front few feet of my trailer with a big area over the goose, wish I knew someone with that sort of pile in their garage!