mr.mindless

I think they're 2.5s, yesThe pics look worse than it is, I'm going to try to get better photos tonight. They do have a couple real hot spots just below the cutoff though. Nothing like a good Bosch lens though.

Every towing forum needs one of these posts... right? probably the heaviest I've ever been. I didn't scale, but those are V8 E250s And finally what I really got the whole rig for. My Dakota is the rig in back. What to do when the tow rig gets stuck

Spent way too long aligning them last night, and I'm really happy with the results. Have to remove them to deal with the high beams, but the lows can be accessed from underneath. Only two align screws and they're tabbed to be changed by screwdriver from the bottom. My driveway isn't as flat as I thought it was so it took me two tries to get height right. Hopefully I went low enough that I'll still be all right with a load on, I may need to tweak them down a little but I won't find out for a couple weeks. No way I could fit leveling motors in without hacking the fenders. I'm still worried about the flimsy outer tab, I probably will end up doing something about that. (I should probably post a pic and clarify, eh??). They have a pretty bad hotspot too, but still vastly better than stock! I didn't bring my good camera with for light shots, but here's some cell pics. Wow, these are worse than I thought. Guess I should stop next time low high both

it doesn't take much to get the engine mounts out. With the engine supported and the bolts out they damn near fall right out of the frame side tabs. I was pretty pleased about that, let me tell you!!

Old thread but since it got bumped I'll throw out there that on the '94-'00 trucks (D60 fronts, as opposed to AAM fronts with upside down ball joints) you can swap on Ford balljoint D60 parts and get real bearings and lockouts for reasonable money.

I've dealt (second hand, always others' trailers who have been in my group) with WAY too many blown tires.It sucks spending time changing flats on the side of the road, and it never happens at a good time or in a good place. ever.Put some good load range E trailer tires on it, two friends have had great success with Maxxis trailer tires after dealing with WAY too many roadside blowouts; they make an E rated tire for a 15" wheel at a pretty reasonable price, I think around $100ea.Tires are at the very top of the list not to skimp on, just ahead of brakes and lights. That's why I was so happy when my trailer already had 19.5s on it, and why I put them on my truck. I won't hurt a load range F or G tire even if I try without breaking axles first

I disconnected mine since the compressor was shot and let everything out this summer, but I'll verify that should be 100% doable.

I've got that well beat. Changed the oil in my TDI; left the fumoto open. doesn't drain too terribly fast....Dumped in my 5 qts, threw the filter in and drive 20 miles to a poker game at a friend's house no issues.Came out, fired it up and it sounded funny. Couldn't place it..... oil pressure light came on as soon as I pulled onto the road and I quickly placed it. Crawled under far enough to shut the valve, put in the 3 qts I had in the trunk to get home.

Clever, I should have thought of that. :rolleyes:I need to do some alignment work on these, but the output seems pretty good. High beams alone are actually quite good and well better than stock. As it sits now running all 4 bulbs blows out the close area with too much light. I need to lift the lows quite a bit.Not looking forward to that. They're a little ugly but the lack of ease of maintenance sucks. The weak outer mounting tab sucks too. I may end up reinforcing that by epoxying some metal to that tab.

interesting, I'd not come across those drop-ins before.Have a link to some info instead of just a picture? the easy-motorcycle site isn't loading for me if there's anything there....

That's got to be interesting on the supply end of things...

:lmao: This is a P-pumped truck, no DIP settings to screw with on this bad boy! Boost line from the intake horn over to the WG actuator on the bottom of the turbo. Have done 1/4" line and 5/16" line, no change. I still haven't hit it with shop air to make sure it moves. Turbo will probably be coming off for Banks Brake install sometime soon anyway so I'll muck with it then. I just pedal it on the hills for now with a load. I had a bad boost leak with my old rotten intake cover. That should be fixed as of yesterday - but if anything that should give me more not less air!

I don't think the vacuum pump has enough capacity to support power brakes. it certainly doesn't have the line size for it. Perhaps with a decent vacuum reservoir, though I'm not sure what application you could steal one from.Much easier to convert your truck over to hydroboost.

I haven't really finished, but figured I'd throw up a thread anyway. I haven't had them out for a test ride yet but I was fed up with ____ factory lights and didn't want to put a bunch of extra lights up there, so here's the new ricey hotness yay boxes of crap! old and busted new hotness in a box Wiring relays while I'm at it. After looking at the high and low patterns I was 90% sure I'd want to be able to run both on high, so I'll get a diode to trigger the low beam relay from the output of the high relay. Without the diode, the low trigger lights the high beams. Ask me how I know Naked! Ricey.... But not as bad as I'd feared. low only high only both beams Sorry, no halo shots yet. The beam is a bit messy. Alignment doesn't look too bad with no tweaking yet... Bulb changes and alignment adjustment will both be a NIGHTMARE. I need a diode to finish wiring up the 4 bulb system but that will give me a chance to test what it looks like with 2 bulbs lit on high or low. The way the patterns line up, I think it's really meant to be a 4 bulb system with the highs filling in over the e-code pattern projector lows. H1 bulbs everwhere; I thought I had a set of HIDs to throw in the lows but I couldn't find them, so it's the cheap halogens that came with them.

I'm not far off, JL....Kenworth, Peterbuilt, Monroe Tractor and Regional International (Cummins dealer) 10 miles south of me. KD Diesel Injection halfway between me and there, and a GREAT friction place, Rochester Brake and Clutch, 10 miles north, downtown. Cummins Northeast an hour west in Buffalo or an hour east in Syracuse. Hookups for light and medium duty parts from a friend in the business.Good thing, else I couldn't afford to keep this pile!!

I'm close to $4 fuel already here. West of Rochester and south of Buffalo I was seeing $3.919 and $3.939 for #2 cash prices on Friday and Saturday.Still around $3.70 at the cheaper places around Rochester. Not sure why, usually things are closer than that. Makes me want to get a transfer tank for when I run out of town and can stop at a res for $3.44 or out of state for even less than that. Indiana is the cheapest I usually see, haven't been that far west in a while. VA a couple weeks ago was down into the $3.30s I think.

yup, unless you strip all the steel off it's not worth it at all for "irony aluminum" as my local yard calls it. Better to haul the whole thing in and get your $240/t without doing any work at all.

totally offtopic, but wow. That's my home zip code! grew up on Cook Lake off hwy 22, parents still live there. Went to Linwood/South West/Forest Lake. Small world!

They should be, yes. The power steering trick is the way to go!

Jeep Cherokees have water control valves. If my temp control is really shot, I'll probably lock the door full open and plumb one of those in under the hood for a better fix...

Figured I'd throw an update here - tracked down the backordered flywheel ring gear through a friend in the business, got it replaced, and got my pressure plate springs upgraded from ~2600# clamping force to ~3400#. No more RPM flare in top gears!Took a week between waiting for parts and putting it back together. Made a 250 mile round trip Monday.Just replaced a bad pressure switch and pressure gauge on my air compressor last night, and I'll be putting about 1000 miles on this weekend back and forth to Dayton OH.Cruise is still out, boost control still is sketchy, but no more leaks as of this morning with some additional tightening of everything, and she's nearly tip top again as I approach the new motor's first oil change!

Mine was hacked out of a pice of 3/16 plate with a cutoff wheel. LOL

New Cummins gasket with permatex gasket tack on both sides. Instill have coolant an diesel leaking but it appears the oil pan is well sealed!

Pitbulls are a tire for the trail rig nit the toter. I run 19.5s and will never go back. The 25/32" tread depth was a little squirrely for the first 1500-2000 miles but since then they've been fantastic. 225/70r19.5s all around, my steers are Continental HDRs and my drive are recap Khumo carcasses with the gnarliest snow tread the offered. Zero (corrected) mileage change, slightly taller; I'm a 20k now on them and at least 60% tread remaining. $1444 for the tires out the door on a dually for load range F all around is impossible to beat. I really wanted to go for 245s but the tire shop talked me out of it. My frito lay breadvan wheels are too narrow at 6" for a 245. 8r19.5 is the height of a 245 and the width of a 225. They're very tall and skinny. When I got my 19.5s I'd wanted to do 245/70r19.5 steers and 8r19.5 drives since the tall profile would not matter as much in back but the size is pretty much out of production. They didn't even have 4 recaps in the same tread much less matching carcasses. Next fall when I expect to need tires again, I'll be looking for matching 8r19.5s to recap though. In any case I do plan to step back a notch in aggressiveness. These have been a little loud and I don't do enough off road to justify the HDR/snow traction combo. It has paid off since the trans swap while I've had to deal with a 4x2 truck in the snow though.

Was one of those threads yours? wondering when you went medium duty. Took me all of 20k and 2 nv4500s to go hd in mine. Love my rtoo9513. If only the rest would quit falling apart. 272k now, bought it with 242 November 09.