mr.mindless

I got my lights from etrailer. http://www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-Trailer_Lights-sf-Clearance_Lights-hs-Rectangle.aspx I run the AL91RB and AL91AB in grounded mounts on the trailer for the small marker lights. Those lights can run in either polarity. Etrailer only seems to list grounded mounts for them - at least right at hand in the 'related products' area, but I know non-grounded mounts do exist, or those could be easily modified. The MCL75RB and MCL75AB match the fender clearance and ID lights on 2nd gen trucks. Likewise on the grounded mounts. Something like the MCL13A2B/MCL13R2B may be more of what you're after, but they do not mention if they are reversable polarity - The first model I pointed out doesn't mention that as a feature either; I don't know how standard that is. A phone call would probably answer that for you though.

I would never switch to, or order with, or choose 4.10s with stock or mildly larger tires.If you're towing 20k, maybe.If you're going to be running 35"+ tires AND towing, yes.If you want to run 40" tires, sure.Otherwise no way, no how. I hate my 4.10s.

I've really been thinking of getting a stock one for an around town beater sometime soon. Would be nice to have a fresh body once mine is crumpled past recognition (it's already used up - need some state beyond that which it hasn't reached )

277 for me, should hit 300 by the end of the year but it'll be a while before the half mil mark - and with two engines and at least 3 transmissions it hardly counts anyway

Mine drips a little fuel from the clutch housing too, I THINK it is one or two injectors just barely leaking, running down the top of the head and then dripping off the back of the motor.It gets lost in the tappet cover oil leak, something in the front cover leak, and whatever other crap drips under there :banghead:

VR6s commonly have coil problems. A long term misfire could kill catalytics, but I don't think that car should have 4. Maybe 3 or 2. Not familiar enough with the Passats to say so.PassatWorld forums may be a good place to browse to pick up some things. VWVortex is huge but full of riceyness and more Golfs and Jettas than the big cars.

I've often thought of getting lights to put behind the rear wheel wells on the rub strip that would match the dually clearance lights. I've also often though of making that front dually clearance light blink with the signals. I'd rather have lights down low at the running board level but I want to match the clearance light location for appearance's sake. I smack my mirrors on branches often enough that I wouldn't have front-of-mirror lights last, and I wouldn't want bottom-of-mirror lights glaring in my eyes with the 4 ways on while backing trailers. I'm very happy with the marker lights I put on my goose, and people DO see the fender mounted signals on the trailer and get out of the way which is great. If they're sitting next to the truck though, the lack of side signal there definitely is a bother. Best picture I've got of the trailer markers. They look great but make the truck look awful dim by comparison. Roughly every 6' I think. You're talking about dimming lights for blinking - it's much simpler to just make them blink. Wire one side to the running lights and the other side to the bright light. Both of those circuits are grounded when not energized, and most if not all LED marker lights have circuitry inside so they don't need to be in any given polarity. When your running lights are off, the bright side will ground through that and light the light. When your running lights are on, they are grounding through the bright side and the light will turn off when the bright side lights (+12 to +12). Very simple. You'll want to grab from the front half of the truck, everything in trailer wiring and tail lights has brake involved as well. It'll look a little funny to have both sides of your truck light up when you hit the brakes.

Aside from ball joints (with a plow or oversize tires, expect more) there are no big issues with these trucks. Solid.Frames are tough as nails too, look what mine's lasted through.

Ah, that makes total sense, I guess I won't go to .010/.010 like I was planning to then. (I lost a lot of exhaust lift with the 12v cam in my 24v)

I'd estimate 110# ea mounted for my dualie steel 19.5s. Pretty heavy.I'll try to remember to throw one on a scale when I rotate next. I didn't know there were Gs for 16s but I'll still roll with the 19.5s. All 10 of mine are, Frito Lay wheels on the truck and the PO put Ricksons or Stockdon SRW 19.5s on the trailer. Easy 20-30k on the trailer with no checking and no wear yet. 20k on the truck and they're still at least 60%.

Not a real good analogy.... Refineries aren't just for their looks and pleasant scent.

4" straight pipe with a resonator.I'm due for valve lash and head retorque soon, I'll check timing and probably pull injectors for a test then too.

That's how my stockers are running these days, it's really pissing me off.... can hardly pull hills without having to back out due to temps, I think some have to be sticking and throwing timing off (p7100.)

I don't think you'll find one under the dash. it should be in the bundle at the PDC though, that's where I tapped mine on the Dakota for an aux backup light switch.

I already had the link on my clipboard before I read the other replies but I was going to say the same thing: http://www.genosgarage.com/prodinfo.asp?number=CUP-HOLDER-9802 I just put one in my '97 last week and it's my favorite mod by far. it's better than the p-pumped 24v. it's better than the eaton 13sp. it's better than the window tint. the only thing that comes close was the mod where I ripped the stock cup holder out of the dash and hatefully threw it across the garage the week after I bought the truck after it let a second 32oz coke fill the passenger foot well!

Good thing the CARB states had VW TDIs outlawed for 3-4 years for "emissions" then, right!

I screwed the pooch on mine. didn't realize I need to prefill the compressor with oil, thought I could do it through the line. I believe my system is holding vaccum though, so I'm ready for cool air. I should probably throw a new accumulator on it though, it's probably original to the truck.

Their math on the CO2 biofuel impact is cloudy at best, it's like when government accountants claim money "saved" by reducing planned growth.regarding electrics, we don't have the electrical generating or transmission capacity to support large scale deployment - and if you're concerned about the CO2 impacts most of that electricity comes from coal anyway. it's not an emissions reduction or elimination just a shift. To say nothing of the lack of supporting battery tech or the nasties that come about with lithium based batteries.electric and hybrid may be the way of the future but it's still a long road. I think fuel cell still has more potential with current tech but they are massively expensive.

I was lazy and borrowed power from the dome light circuit instead of running down the pillar to a switched source

I had some slow crank at the end of the winter from my truck, but the batteries tested good as well. All terminals clean, etc. I think the extra load from more advanced timing that did mine in.I checked for parasitic loads and I was seeing almost 3a of key-off draw. I've had my radar detector hard wired ever since I've had the truck and it never caused any issues even sitting on, for as long as a week, but about 2.5a of that draw was the Valentine One. I've started keeping that off, and it seems to have been enough.If your issue isn't one of instant restart, do check for parasitic loads.That said, Mike is absolutely right with damage being possible with deep discharge. Desulfication can sometimes bring a dead one back to life but yours are at the age that it's debatable... If you have other vehicles with lighter demands it might be worth a shot, to have spares for them!

Yup, the stock timing can be set with a pin in the IP and the timing pin in the motor. Tightening the pump gear without spinning things can be a serious _____ though. I don't know if the timing pin in the pump is strong enough to keep the pump still while tightening without shearing.When I was setting mine I had to compensate for pump rotation, made it take about 5 tries.

that goldfish idea is a good one, i like it...I had squirrel issues when my truck was down with the cracked block. I'd been able to keep my hood mat until it was parked for that long. Then they got into it and filled up my air box and the fender it feeds from. Took me a couple hours to clean out between the headlight and the intake.... Seems it has to sit for a week or so before they care. Thankfully they've got enough nuts to nibble on from my damn walnut trees that they leave the wiring alone.I hate black walnuts but I'll live with the "hail" damage if it keeps my wiring harness intact.

I got a pair from there a month or two ago since they were so cheap, after a lost one light. I was surprised when they were a good match to factory, I could have just bought one. If it's a left you need, I have a OEM spare...

Those are some serious loads, pepsi!

Wow, those are light. I'm 8500 with me, full tank, toolbox and spare tires. 13sp and duals/19.5s add up! I'll be close to 9k when I get four wheel drive back. Someday I'll get the dead spare off the broken winch under the truck and put the trailer spare on the trailer, thatll help curb weight. Maybe move the 100+ of straps and chains to the trailer someday too...