mr.mindless

My truck isn't running the heater grid when cold as it should. Wait to start is only lit for a second or so and goes out with water in fuel. That's based off the temp seen at the IAT sensor, right?Hopefully killed the sensor with diesel contamination and haven't given myself harness issues yet. Just replaced bad injection lines again... There's been lots of fuel loose under my hood

Nice! Steering shaft parts are a _____ to find, glad to have another bookmark.

You should reread the first post dually. Starter not involved.

Is Stockdon out of the game?My SRW trailer has Ricksons on it. They're a nice HD wheel. Much beefier than the bread truck duals on the truck. A friend of mine and I found a set of deeep offset SRW 19.5s in the junkyard a few months back. Likely old rail truck wheels. He got some 2" spacers to put them where they should be but has been chasing some vibrations and has since pulled the spacers. Looks a little skinny but he only paid 150 for the set! They didn't even need the centers bored. Just a matter of good timing....

Bunch of my friends here run treadwrights and my next set likely will be too now that they're remolding 19.5s. Easily 8 sets of 4 tires on everything from Offroad jeeps to tow rig trucks and only one bulged sidewall issue that was taken care of straight away. Very good choice; solid product.

If you pull off the pickup tube you may need even less than 3". Just don't drop a bolt in the pan when reassembling!

Howdy from Rochester!

Never had mine with a stock shifter, sorry...

you don't get to just unscrew the latch post a little like the 94-97? that's poopy. I love mine, I'll never have another second gen without one.

I always had thought 1350 max sustained, and I've been very angry at my EGTs lately and have let them sit at 1400 for 10-20 seconds on occasion and spike to 1500 sometimes. nothing has melted yet drag race driving empty I can spike to 1600 but that's for less than a second and I wouldn't really worry about that sort of duration at any temp

Found I had a blown gasket on the intake plate while swapping another troublesome injection fuel line. Hard to believe a roughly 4" by 1/16" or less gap can make such a difference.I still have not replaced the wastegate actuator, and did not play with timing, star wheel, fuel plate, injectors, or anything else. Back up to the pre-24v 37-40psi max boost instead of 27ish and very similar EGTs as I used to have. Loaded and holding 75 up good hills, boost and pryo climb smoothly and at max boost EGTs will slowly climb from 1275-1300.... Next time I'm bored I'll slide the fuel plate back maybe 1/8" and see how it does. Hopefully I can get the AFC in exactly the same spot again, it's very well adjusted for smoke at the moment. Then I'd be able to let the cruise control mat it through the hills again and not need to care :thumb1:It's like a whole different truck. Amazing what some RTV can fix!

Seems like a tiny flexible nozzle on a shop vac would solve that issue right quick.

mileage?sounds like the spool valve in the box may be unhappy.assuming fluid level is good and all cavitation has settled out since the fluid change of course.

Cute little local trip tonight. I'm not sure the pair of Mazda2s outweigh the trailer! Sure doesn't feel like it. Yes, my pile is FILTHY. It hides a little bit of the rust :-D

Remember he's probably quoting a price per liter Mike... European fuel is a pretty pricey product!Welcome to the site! I miss my 1.9L VW TDI sometimes :-)

2000 isn't the cutoff year, I think the first SuperDuty fords were 99s and that was the changeover from 8.5" to whatever metric size it is.

Bricking my britches! :-D55mph might get me over 20 now. Did 2 tanks at 19.1/19.4 highway 55mph when I still had the 12v/4500. I've towed at 19mpg once too (24v/9513) - coastal flatland in MD at 45-50, coasting a lot to time stop lights. I did about pass a brick on that tank. Interstate flatland empty I got low 17s when last I trekked empty (65-70, 12v/9513 to MN and back). I'm sure economy will go up (and more importantly EGTs down) with my planned cam swap. My terrain (PA mountains), weights (19-26k for 70% of my miles) and impatience (I didn't buy a Cummins to pull grades at 45mph) combined with 4.10s and LOTs of rotating mass (rtoo9513 is a 660# twin countershaft trans plus 19.5 duallie rubber) team up to clobber me at the fuel pump. Through 2 engines (same p7100...) and 3 transmissions my routes haven't changed much and my mileage has been pretty consistent. Shifting earlier buys me 14 from 12 around town empty... More patience and throwing in some 40-60 mile round trip lake/ mountain bike/ friend trips gets me 15ish. I know the tricks. I bet even the best hypermilers here would have had trouble getting 20 out of my truck in traffic with the 4500/4.10 combo though. I live essentially downtown in a mid sized city, if I don't leave town, it really is pure 'city' numbers for me with idling at lights, frequent stops, occsional NEEDs to GO...All right, enough rambling and justifying from me now!

Those have a couple miles left in em!

For what it's worth I have a fresh g-spring kit in my 280k P pump and hot or cold engine doesn't effect startup that I've noticed-but I almost always give it a sneeze of accelerator pedal when starting. Usually when I lean into the cab and start it while standing on the ground it's at or NRA operating temp and it starts just a skosh slower, but I'd say 3 cranks. Nowhere near 10. Mine starts like crap in cold weather due to timing, going to back that off a couple degrees when I do my cam. Unrelated overall but timing has a HUGE effect on p7100 starting since it's [relatively] fixed.

Friend converted a SRW 2500, his outside duals stock size are about .5" OUTSIDE the dually flare. The SRW axle is without a doubt wider than the DRW axle If anything you're reducing it since you're increasing the weight of your truck by a couple hundred pounds.... Same axle, same bearings, same brakes. It can and will increase stability though. Especially with goose/5th or slide in camper. no idea but that'd be good to know, and would broaden my parts search as I look for a 95-97 Ford axle to swap outers with.

DRW axle is 3-4" narrower. If you keep the same axle your drive tires will be out about 2" on each side vs factory DRW.Spacers bolt right on to the steer axle, no changes needed.I think the rear spring packs are the same. With your manual trans 2500 you have the D80 already so the actual axle is the same as the 3500s get. The weight rating may differ though. My '97 D80 DRW D80 is rated at 7500, I think my friend's '01 2500 SRW D80 is rated at 6800 but I don't recall. I know my friend's SRW F350 rear axle is rated at less than mine, and I think the SRW 2500 was the same as the SRW F350. That was a couple months ago that I was reading door jams between beers so it's foggy for a couple reasons...What are you going to do for flares? Why convert?

if I ever see 20, I'll defecate a masonry unit.

standard aluminized brake line....

brass is a lot more economical than the fancy stuff NV used OEM. They don't shift quite as nice but on the other hand you don't need to worry about fancy manual transmission fluid either.

diesel-rated rubber line all the way from the tank to the pump and from the return to the tank. I had a couple feet left over from 15' purchase on my extended cab long bed 12v. I won't say what I think the line sizes are because I didn't post it where I thought I did. the google knows, and I think it's Geno's that even sells the set of lines, among a few other places. The correct fuel line is pretty expensive. If you're not spending $5-8+/ft, you're getting cheap gasoline rated stuff, you want fuel and oil stuff so it lasts the life of the truck without breaking down. protip: way easier than dropping a then-full tank: