hdpwipmonkey

Yes. I never had an issue with the trans acting up. I did the alternator replacement and ground mod as preventative maintenance.

I got these ones and so far I am happy with them. They shake when you close the door but no shake when driving. No marker or courtesy lights one them though, just powered and heated (same as my OEM ones).

Mine is next to nothing with the ground mod now. When I first checked it with the old alternator it was around .1 IIRC and after replacing the alternator it went down to .03 and after doing the ground mod its barely readable. Fluctuates between .001 to .002

^^^^^ Same

Nice picture. One of my favorite fishing spots.

I noticed this winter that my truck sounds louder too. This is my first winter with it so I'm not sure if its normal to change in the winter or not. I posted on here about it. I know I need injectors too. 165k miles on original injectors. I need to call DAP and figure out what size I can go with with my HX35 turbo.

I'm not sure about that. When my pressure was fluctuating because of the ball and spring, it didn't sound like that. Not saying thats not the issue but to me it sounds more like its sucking in air or the pump motor is bad. You can try the spring and ball if you want. They are cheap and easy enough to change out.

Wow! That pump don't sound too good. Sucking air maybe or just a bad pump motor.

Update. I bought some Cheapo Walmart special 6X9 speakers and plugged them in and viola, I now have sound from the front speakers all except the drivers side tweeter. I left the amps intact and just zip tied them to the new speakers.

Does the Fass have a relay in the wiring? If not, I'd put one in. The newer ones come with a wiring harness and relay, not sure about the older ones.

I just finished up with work till Monday so hopefully I can find some time between my Heroes On the Water event and trying to get my back yard in usable shape that I can run to Wally-World and buy some cheap 6x9s to test out the front channel to see if maybe just the speakers are bad.

Link to the instructions. Follow the video instructions not the PDF. Make sure you have the right USB cable (data cable, not just a charge cable) Link to the flash file. Good luck, hopefully this fixes it.

Do you have anything else that you can plug in with those cables to see if your computer responds, like a Logitech remote or a GPS system (thats the only 2 things I can think of with the same plugs...). If your computer responds to something else being plugged in with those cables but the XTZ don't then most likely the connection in the box is bad.

If you're talking about the Adrenaline then there's the power cable that goes into the cab fuse box, the battery wires, the MAP and Data cables, and the fuel tap (if you tapped it).

I use the same filter and Valvoline Premium Blue 15W40

I don't think its the stereo because the OEM stereo and the new one both have the same issue. I suppose both fronts are bad but that dont explain the tweeters. I also ohm'd out the front drivers side speaker wire and I have continuity from the stereo plug to the plug inside the door so there isn't a broken wire (at least on that side). I will see if I have an old car speaker to test out the output. That's a good idea. Thanks.

I have no fronts and no tweeters thats why I thought it was the relay under the dash not turning on the amps but the rears work and those signals are amplified so the amps should be coming on.

or its an issue with the box its self... Maybe the connection in the box is bad. Is it still under warranty. Maybe send it in to Quadzilla.

So, according to this wiring diagram it looks like all the speakers run through the on speaker amps. My rears work so that means the amps are powering on but I was reading no voltage on the blk/rd wire which is the power on from the relay. Guess I have some more troubleshooting to do.

My OEM radio was getting on my nerves. It would stop displaying the clock at random times and there was no sound from the front speakers. My wife got tired of not being able to change the radio stations because she couldn't see the display so she bought me a new Pioneer system. I connected it all up and everything works except the front speakers are still dead. I started searching Google looking for info about no front audio and it seems there is a choke relay that feeds the front speakers for the amps. I looked in the Dodge FSM and sure enough it says if there is no sound from the front speakers then troubleshoot the choke relay. I checked the wiring diagram and I have 12v to the relay from the radio (lime green wire) but no voltage to the amp (at least at the drivers side). Any one ever have to replace this relay. A quick Google search turned up nothing for it. Is it just a basic relay? Is the relay separate from the choke or is it all one unit. From the pics I found online it looks to be all one unit. When I have more time I'll see about getting it out and try jumpering the relay to see if I can get any sound out of the front to verify its actually bad.

I've exhausted the extent of my knowledge, hopefully @Me78569 or @Quadzilla Power will chime in with some extra help for you guys.

What version of Windows are you using? If you reboot your PC then you will have to redo step one to disable signed driver enforcement. If you don't then the driver wont install. Did you reboot at all after doing step 1 and before doing step 2? Also, right click and run as administrator on everything.

Here are the 2 tunes I've been using. iQuad-Mopar1973man Performance-2019-03-15-08.27.04147447478196055003.json iQuad-daily-2019-03-15-08.26.444726115227942262255.json Looking at these tunes in the tune builder they do look a little low on timing. The daily one isn't as bad as the performance one (if I'm looking at it correctly).

I notice it more in the low end of the RPMs. 1500 or less. Usually just starting out or while cruising at lower speeds around through town. When at highway speeds or if I'm really getting on the throttle I don't notice it.

Hmmm. I don't have any issues with connection. I always leave the app run in the background and I walk out to my truck, get in and turn the key to on and while waiting for the "Wait to Start" light to go out I pull out my phone and switch to the app and put it in the holder and most times it connects before I even start the truck if not, its right after. I do keep the bluetooth devices cleaned out on my phone. I only have the Iquad, my watch, and a speaker in there. I probably just jinxed my self...