hdpwipmonkey

Merry Christmas everyone!

When you import a tune you can change the name so export your tune and when you go to re-import it change the name to whatever you want...

I installed mine like @Me78569 mentioned. Power from OE lift pump to relay and power from drivers side battery. I just followed the instructions that came with the Fass. I had no issues with the install. bumped the key to prime the system and cracked loose the number 1,3,5 lines and turned key a few times till diesel was spraying out pretty well while cranking and then then tightened them up and turned the key and it started and idled rough a little while till all the air was out then it ran like a (noisy) top. @OmahaGen2 did yours not come with the relay and wiring?

I think its subscription based now... https://mopar1973man.com/subscriptions/

I use an Asus Chromebook 2 in 1 for most of my surfing and email stuff. I have a custom built desktop that I use for all my heavy lifting (gaming, video editing, ect). A Chromebook is a laptop that runs off of the Chrome OS. If you've used Android tablets or phones then you can use a Chromebook. So far I really like it. Super fast and no bloatware to bog it down. I think its the C302 if I remember correctly. It was a little expensive for a Chromebook but I wanted one with a better processor and not a Celeron.

Truth!

I'm still learning the Quad too... That was going to be my next suggestion was to get the stealth cover. Takes the guess work out of wire tapping.

You can find the tune builder here: https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/24-valve-2nd-generation_50/51_engine/59_fuel/quadzilla-adrenaline-v2-tune-builder-for-pc-r532/ No reason to wire tap if you aren't going to use it but you could always do the wire tap and just not set the tune to use it but it'll be there in case you need it. If you leave it on level 3 it will only use timing and canbus fueling. It will only use wiretap on level 4 or higher and thats on any tune you load.

The tune builder on the website here is for on a computer. You can build a tune using the app on your phone though. I just download what I want off the site here or use the tune builder on my PC then email it to myself to load it on my phone.

Congrats on getting a Quad. Best thing I ever did for my truck yet! I didn't get a fuel pressure module with mine as I already had a fuel pressure gauge on the A-pillar. I didn't have to hook mine up to the computer either. The Quad module was already up to date. Are you getting the bluetooth or WiFi module with it to run it with your phone? You'll load the tunes onto your phone and then when the quad starts and the phone connects it'll load the currently selected tune. I use the "Daily Stock Injector with Meat". I am on stock injectors though. There is the tune builder that you can use to make a tune for what your set up is if you can't find one that matches your setup.

@TimothyGlad the OBD2 scanner worked for you. Now you have some idea of what to fix. They are definitely a good tool to have in your toolbox and they will work on any vehicle (1996 and newer).

I've never used it on anything with out a CEL on but everything that I did use it on found the code that tripped the CEL and was able to reset it. They do work. Even the cheap one. I figured it would be a cheap alternative instead of taking it to a shop. Its worth a try.

You could get a cheap bluetooth obdII reader and read the codes through your phone (you can also use it as a live data reader). They sell them on Amazon for really cheap to not-so cheap. Here are a few selections. Cheap and not-so cheap I have a cheap one and not so cheap one and they both work well for finding codes. I've never tried using them on vehicles with out a CEL on though but they should be able to find any stored codes. This might be a cheaper alternative then just taking it to a shop.

@24vcumminspower 24% to 26% at 70 mph on level ground. I checked it on my way west and back east and it was the same both directions.

Maybe you just fried one of the sensors like coolant temp or IAT and the ECM is trying to offset it and that's why it seems to idle higher now. You can try checking the senor readings at start up with a live data tool. They should be close to what ambient temperature is when you first start the vehicle.

I can check tomorrow while I'm on the highway on my way to the coast.

They are called Switchback LEDs. Here's the article if you haven't found it yet.

I just checked my user manual and it said when refilling it takes 10qts +1 for the filter.

I just changed the oil in my truck last week or so and when I looked it up it said it took 12 qts. I bought 3 gallons of Shell Rotella and when I refilled the oil I put 2 and a half gallons in and it read full so I started it and let it run for a little while while checking for leaks then shut it down and then I had to put about another quart in to get it in the middle of the safe zone on the stick. I'll get you the part number of the stick tomorrow.

I would email it to him that way its not associated to the website in anyway. That way the hacking ghost cant get to it...

I think when I get more oil filters from Geno's I'll be adding a Fumoto drain valve to the cart too.

The Fass also returns to the filler neck... I actually toyed around with the idea of putting in a drawstraw or sump but I havent had any issues with the set up as is so I havent put in either. I bypassed the OEM filter because thats what the instructions from Fass said to do and I figured there were already filters on the Fass Pump so no need to keep the OEM one (and add more restricitve 90 degree connectors).

@Otto8335 Do you have an in tank pump? If you have the on engine pump then there is no need to go into the tank and install a draw straw. I installed a Fass 165 on my truck and I just used the stock pick up from the tank. Good pressures and no issues. I did run 1/2 line from the tank to the Fass and from the Fass to the VP (bypassed stock filter canister and eliminated all the restrictive banjo bolts).

I don't usually go off-road with my truck, at least not yet. I'd be more worried about something kicking up and hitting the valve but with it needing 2 movements to open the valve I'm not sure how easy it would unintentionally open. I usually always change all of my own oil except on my wife's rubicon because we have it covered from the stealership and on my truck because I didn't have a catch pan big enough for 3 gallons of oil (until today). From now own I'll be doing it myself. Both times I had it done at Valvoline they "forgot" to lube the truck at all. The last time I pulled it out and stopped in their parking lot and checked and then pulled back around and pulled it back in and made them do it. I honestly don't know where they get some of these guys at... I saw one similar to that on Geno's site too (here) but in the video it didn't look like it drained as fast as the others I linked. I did like that it was a little lower profile then the others though.

I just got done changing the oil in my truck. This is the first time I changed the oil myself. I used Goofy-Lube the last 2 times (I know, I know, WHY would you do that...). When I went to take the drain plug out I noticed 2 issues, one, the square spot where you put you're 3/8th inch socket wrench was partially stripped (Goofy-Lube) and two, the plug was so tight I had to get a cheater bar to break it loose (I won't be going to Goofy-Lube anymore). My question is if anyone uses any of the drain valves in place of the drain plug. I saw some for sale on Geno's Garage like this one and this one. Just not sure how safe it is having something like that hanging down off the bottom of the drain pan. Any thoughts or experiences with them?