hdpwipmonkey

Thats a nice looking truck @gimmie11s

speaking of hidden batteries, I remember as a kid, helping my dad replace the battery of our old Beetle and him not being able to find it. He finally located it under the rear seat of all places...

The first time I went to change the battery in my wife's old car (2008 Dodge Avenger) I popped the hood and for the life of me I couldn't find the battery . After some Google-Fu I found out its in the wheel well of the driver's side front . I had to jack up the car, remove the tire, and pull out the inner wheel well plastic. I always pull the negative first but with this battery I made absolutely sure to pull it first! Way to tight in there not to. I was glad when that car went bye-bye

I drive by the quad readings. I'd believe it before the Glowshift one because of they're questionable history. Side note: does anyone know what decent gauge will fit in a Glowshift pillar gauge mount?

I got about a 100 - 200 degree difference between my Quadzilla and Glowshift gauge. Quadzilla responds a lot faster than the glowshift gauge. When I'm on it the Quadzilla will read 900 or more and the glowshift is reading ~700. Big difference!

I drilled mine the first time (for gauges) where @015point9 showed. I did it with engine off and used magnet and vacuum to clean up afterwards. I drilled the second hole (for Adrenaline EGT probe) across from the first one again with engine off and using magnet and vacuum. So far so good although I do have a large variation between the 2 but I'm sure it's because of the crappy Glowshift gauge

I remember seeing a post on a forum somewhere about adding that spring but I think they were talking about it helping the downshift when slowing down and coming to a stop. My transmission is not downshifting and I wanted to give this a try and I was trying to find the post again but I never did find it. Thanks @Gregturley for the picture and info. Off to ACE hardware...

I have a Quad XZT+ that is collecting dust in my garage. Not sure it'll help you out with the 100HP injectors but it'll be better than nothing. Message me if you're interested in it. Only used a few weeks then I upgraded to an Adrenaline. I'll make you a good deal on it.

Holy Ship! That beast sounded good. I had to crank up the volume and listen to it a few times... I think I need some alone time now

170k on mine and it's leaking. I lose about 1/2qt between oil changes

Now who should be slapped???

Wished you were still here. 5 minutes down the road sounds better then a 5 hour drive.

That's what I suspect also. I wanted to call @Dynamic and discuss possible upgrades with him not only pan off ones but also what to get in a full rebuild.

Mine's starting off in the wrong gear. I slow to a stop and when I go again it starts off in 2nd then switches to 1st real quick then back to second once I start going.

If I do the pan off upgrades I'll do those but the full rebuild is a little (I mean a lot) out of my relm of comfort. This is my daily driver and I have to have it turned around quick and if I did it myself, I'm sure it's be anything but quick.

Congrats on the pan and fluid filter change JAG1. I just ordered my Goerend pan set (based on recommendations on here) and I'm debating on any "pan-off" upgrades when I'm in there or just wait till I get the whole transmission rebuilt. I'm hoping to do the rebuild in the next month. Any thoughts?

I use armor-all on the inside and 303 on the outside. My dash is pretty well cracked with some chunks missing. I was thinking of putting something like this in at some point. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MU3CHSS/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_3?smid=A3A9TU4M8Z5VHK&psc=1

I don't know, my thought was a 2000 lb car going fast and stopping or a 8000 lb truck with trailer trying to stop either one will generate heat and gases. I've used Powerstop brakes and rotors before on other applications and they performed well so I went with them again on this truck. I like to drive a little too fast and I am hard on the brakes so I wanted something that was going to stop me when needed. So far so good but time will tell I guess.

I just put ceramics on mine but I also put on drilled and slotted rotors too so I could help dissipate the heat from the ceramics. Maybe the ceramics are too much for those rotors

I've never had it happen to me but that can't be good. Getting too hot or too thin and stressed. Being both sides look like that I'd say its not a caliper sticking (unless they both are ).

I had to use a different size bolt in mine when I did the mod. IIRC it was a M6x1.0

Interesting. If you had sound to the tweeter and rear door but nothing to the front door speaker on the drivers side then you switched to the junkyard speaker and amp then you had front door sound but no tweeter or rear door then I'd say your original speaker is bad but the amp was good (since you had tweeter and rear door sound) and the junkyard speaker is probably good but the amp is bad (no rear speaker or tweeter sound). You can try your original front amp and the junk yard front door speaker. The amps just unbolt from the speaker but I cant remember if the wires from the amp just plug on to front speaker or if they are soldered on. Honestly though, I'd buy a new head unit and some speakers and be done with it (actually, thats exactly what I did). You can get a decent radio and speakers for pretty cheap now a days... just my

What year truck do you have? For my 1999 I believe it was a lime green wire that was the energizing signal wire.

I did the same as @98whitelightnin. I replaced the radio and put some new 6X9s in the doors and left the amps intact. Also as @SilverMoose has said, if you leave the amps intact then you'll need to connect up the power on wire to your system. It is a blue wire and sometimes its marked as power antenna or amp on signal. I'd make sure the blue wire is connected correctly and when you turn the key on you should hear a click from under the dash (the amp circuit being energized).

Do you have any other issues in the cab like no lights or gauges or power locks not working. Could of blown the IOD fuse?