IBMobile

That looks like to much fun but a little to rich for my blood. I'll stick to shooting clay. Can't wait to see the aerial phots/videos of the back country.

I'd seal the old fuel line too. You never know when you might need to use it. I use mine as a return line from the pressure regulator to the filler neck for the Fuel Boss.

I have to agree that the mom and pop stores don't have corporate to answer to about how often they change their filters but the fuel they sell is made at the same refinery as Chevron and other major brands. The fuel sometimes has the same additives as the major brands. Here in San Diego county the majority of our fuel comes from a refinery in Torrance, CA , just out side of LA. The fuel then is sent through a pipe line to a tank farm in Mission Valley, and across the street from QUALCOMM STADEUM where the San Diego Chargers play. There it is loaded in to tanker trucks where the brand marker or additive for Chevron, Shell, Mobile, etc., is or is not added, then delivered to the retailer.

Disconnect the batteries' negative cables other wise you risk over voltage across the ECU and PCM.

Are you going to just do a visual inspection or Plastigauge them? Why not just through a set of bearing at it and be done with the bottom end for a while.

I had 3 or 4 CB's, some were the old 23 channel, along with 3 antennas. I couldn't get any to work until I found out that the antenna mast has to be tuned or matched to the CB with an SWR meter.

It's good you took the day to recharge your battery. This is something only you can do and should be done on a regular basis.

When I took my Carter vane pump apart there was a wire mesh filter on the inlet side of the pump.

I go to auto body paint supply stores. Some of them either have in stock or can get the 'exact' color in a spray can.

Did your mechanic volt test at the pump to see if the ECM is providing 12 volts or not when engine starts. If 12 volts is pump still running, if yes then test pressure. If not 12 volts then there may be an issue with the wiring or ECM.

Mea culpa. Thanks for the correction. I had read that the fsm said atf +4 for power steering and had assumed it covered all years. I'm going to be flushing the atf out of my PS this coming week.

If the Raptor did not come with a wiring harness, fuse and relay then you will need to wire it like this.

The Factory Service Manual calls for ATF+4 and that's what I use.

Go here https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/24-valve-2nd-generation/53_axles-suspension-brakes/adding-inline-power-steering-filter-with-system-flush-r486/

You can put a filter in the return line also.

Now he's crowing again

Just you wait and see Have a happy birthday!

When you had the motor out did you notice any ply in the shaft or damage to the fans as if they had been rubbing on the housing. Are the motor/fans secure and aligned in the housing.

Driving around Mono County in the Eastern Sierra Nevada mountains a couple of week ago and came across these.

PN $54,700+

Could this be caused by a cushion, isolator, or bolt at one of the body to frame contact points?

That Airtex is what I have as a back up/priming pump. When I have used it fuel pressure is 15-17psi at idle and down to 10psi wot.

Same things happen to me.

I have to agree. Why do you want to do that? It's a lot easier swapping titles than it is swapping transmissions.

Did you try asking a mechanic at the dealer?