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If you have some 90° needle nose pliers use them to squeeze the threads or if you have a good angle take a punch an tap the threads.

If that nut came off it may not go into a cylinder right away but it could really nick up a valve and seat. When the nut is on all the way do some of the stud threads show? If they do I'd deform them after putting the nut on with the Loctite®. If they don't show I'd run a die down the stud a couple of turns till they did. Just more insurance to help keep that nut from falling off.

The Presidential Site She just took my name and number and said there would be a space reserved for me. The First Lady will only boondock for a day or two, after that it's the Ramada Inn. Thank you JAG1 remember, bring steak n lobster

Today I was checking the availability of camp sites at Catfish Junction RV Park on their WEB site for the weekend of 8-18-2017 thru 8-22-2017 and found nothing was available. I'm thinking 'is everyone making reservation this far out'? Well no, I called their office and spoke with an extremely pleasant and helpful woman. She said that they have been having problems with that part of their web site and people should call in so they can get up to the minute info. She took my name and already had my phone number, so with no money down I have my site reserved. She said to "just call and cancel if you can't make it". Catfish Junction RV Park 541-262-3833

I'd file it smooth, get rid of that piece that can stab you and round it off.

A good use for your used engine coolant but don't let the EPA find out.

You can take them off with no problem but they will not lock again if reused.

Deforming lock nut also known as a pinch nut

I put petroleum jelly (Vaseline) on the fitting and in the hose before assembly.

This will do the same thing. Pin #9 at the #1 joint connector comes from the reverses light switch. You could also splice into the vt/bk wire and use it as a relay trigger wire for high wattage lamps.

I have that same Airtex pump on my truck but only use it as a backup and have it disconnected since I have a Fuel Boss pump. When I have run only the Airtex pump I'm getting 15-16psi at idle and 11-12psi at WOT, so not a very good main lift pump.

When buying on E-Bay look out for Chines knock-offs. If the price is super low and it says it's shipped from Hong Kong I don't think I buy it.

I get all my push-loc fittings from my local ParkerStore™ supply house. https://www.parker.com/portal/site/PARKER/menuitem.98bf0856fd643a238c23b35b8320d1ca/?vgnextoid=894fb34395d2b210VgnVCM10000032a71dacRCRD&vgnextfmt=EN&from=parkerstore&citype=ParkerStore

Try this

You're going to need to install a quick release for an E-Z 4 minute RNR.

A knock is just a louder ping. If the only thing you changed are the injectors and this problem arose then I'd be looking at having them tested / replaced.

Fast way to check if the rear trans bushing either auto or manual is with the trans in neutral and no load on the driveshaft grab the front yoke and push up and down on it. If there is any play then the bushing is worn. With 217,000k on it I'd replace it with the seal.

Check the vacuum line and wires going to the cruise control servo which is located under the left battery box and in the left inner fender. You may need to pull the battery and battery box out. Over the years I've see lots of strange things and damage caused by rodents. One might have just eaten through a vacuum hose. You won't get a 12v reading at the switches. Only two wires come out of those switches. A red/ lightgreen wire to pin #32 (speed control switch signal) at the PCM and a black/ light-blue wire to pin #4 (sensor ground) at the PCM.

Sharing problems, ideas and fixes is what makes this forum so good. We would need to have someone be the "clearing house" for the info and write the article.

The stock fuel transfer pump is not supplied by a relay but by the engine control module (ECM) from pins #15 and #35 by a yellow/white 18 agw wire. The black/white 18 agw wire is the ground. I would use a relay with the yellow/white wire for the triggering signal at terminal #86 and wire it as shown below.

Here's an automotive wire chart that will help you out. https://www.tessco.com/yts/industry/products/itm/automotive/get_wired.html

Just start at the top and work your way down

The leak is probably at the evaporator under the dash or the O-rings at joints. That tubing behind the battery is the high pressure line coming from the condenser going to the evaporator and the expansion valve is in that line. The noise you're hearing is the pressures equalizing at the expansion valve.

I'm buying one for CATWOMAN

My live data for map shows with key on and engine running or not 101Kpa (14.65psi) @ 700'. Why are you adding 2psi for altitude? I thought that as you go up in altitude, atmospheric pressure decreased.