IBMobile

The older Volvos have a problem like that where the trans cool pipe would get rubbed through. I cut the line with a tube cutter and slide transmission hose over the pipe with two mini hose clamps. Another way is to cut out the bad part and splice in a new tube with line unions.

I agree with dripley. You're not getting a good flow over or through the heater core. The heater core is just a small radiator/ heat exchange unit.

A bear broke into my truck and snapped the thing that holds the cup holder level. My wife found a basket that fits under it at just the right height. So now I have some thing under the holder to through things in.

I always do engine oil pressure tests at the oil sender. You can see if the dash gauge is reading the same as the test gauge. The oil pressure sender is usually at a point in an oil galley that's after the oil filter and before the main crank journals. The pressure gauge I use goes to 300 PSI because I use it on auto transmissions also. I think if you find one that goes to 100 PSI you'll be fine.

Factory oil filter:"The bypass valve is calibrated to open when it sees a pressure drop of more the 50 PSI across the oil filter." (9-292)

Hey, FLAGMANRUSS I lived in Cumberland, R I for 22 years. Now I'm stuck in So Cal. I do get back there once in awhile though. By the way, I think you where the cop that caught me with Sally in the back seat of my dad's 68 Chevy. [*]

"A gerotor style oil pump draws oil from the crankcase through the suction tube and delivers it through the block where it enters the oil cooler cover and pressure regulator valve. When oil pressure exceeds 65 PSI, the valve opens exposing the dump port, which routs excess oil back to the oil sump."(page 9-929) So you shouldn't see more than the 65 PSI even on a cold morning start.

"MONEY" I see it all the time on the stuff I work on. Instead of do it right, say, adding a brace that's 5 MM thick they use one that's 2.5 MM. It's just thick enough to get out of the warranty period before it brakes. Use cheaper parts or no anti-seize, a buck here a buck there, and over 250,000 units produced a lot of money is saved. [*]

You want to vacuum test the purge valve, not the canister. The canister is a place where the vapor is stored. The vapor is later sucked in to the intake manifold when the purge valve gets a signal to open.

The code p0507 idle air control system, idle higher than expected. Causes: Electric throttle control actuator, intake air leak, pcv system. If the code comes back try disconnecting both battery cables and touching them together for 10 seconds.This will reset all the self learned settings. Cycling key on for one sec and off for 10 sec three times. This may reset the idle air volume learned by the pcu. The code p1456 leak detected in fuel EVAP system. Causes: Loose gas cap, poor seal in fuel EVAP purge valve, leak in fuel vapor hose. This code can be a pain, start with the gas cap. If ok vacuum test the purge valve, must hold vacuum on both sides. EVAP line needs to be inspected for cracks or loose fittings from the fuel tank to the canister, from the canister to the purge valve,and from the purge valve to the intake manifold.

Congratulation on the baby, on the new house and having a work shop is a good place to hang out and get things done. Your wife will have the job of her life in December.

No on the E-BAY. Went to a place near my house called Off Road Warehouse. I told them the price I could get it for on the internet and would pay cash so they matched the price.

What is your idle like, to high or to low?

I payed $300.61 + tax in May of 05 for a cheap stainless steel Magnaflow. I can see small rust spots at the tip.

I run the boost elbow with my edge. I hit 28psi wide open then falls of to 25psi as the gate opens. The elbow is just a fitting with a small hole on the hose side. Due to the lack of air flow with the small hole it takes a little longer for the higher pressure to build up in the actuator housing an push the diaphragm to open the wast gate.

Don't forget to check the valve guides.

Crack open a line at an injector and see if you get fuel spray when cranking, that will tell you if the vp is working.

My alter ego:evilgrin:

P0507 idle air control system higher than expected. P1546 A/C clutch status circuit low voltage. P1456 leak detected in fuel EVAP system.

Dripley, you'r right. [*] The PCM has 3-32 pin connectors. One of the PCM out put is "CCD bus (+/-) circuits for: speedometer, voltmeter, fuel gauge,oil pressure gauge/lamp, engine temp. gauge,and speed control warn. lamp." page 8E-19

If you have the factory manual go to pages 8j 18-20. All the info from the sensor go into the PCM and are then sent to the instrument cluster. Either the 50 pin connector at the PCM is loose/dirty, or the PCM is bad.The connector at the cluster is just a bridge for info FROM the PCM.

Sounds to me that you have power feeding the high beam and drive lights at the same time or the dip relay is stuck. In other words a hot (battery voltage) wire is feeding current to the lights. Trace the wire harness from the head lights and drive lights and see what they have in common,IE harness, relay, switches, ect, ect. Inspect the damaged area carefully. A test light, ohm meter, and wire diagram are helpful.

Might be best to pull the radiator out to clean it. The temp would go up when I pulled my 5er up 6% grade.

Wal-Mart oil for me. It's gone up here too. I bought 5 gal @ $8.88 just before a barrel of oil went to $150. Wal-Mart raised the price to $10/gal. When oil went down to $55 a barrel the prices stayed at $10. Now a barrel is hanging around $85 and the price goes up once more, go figure. [*] :banghead:

Check the rubber hoses in the system. Have a helper either a stick between the seat and peddle or person push down on the peddle while you inspect the brake hoses. Look for bulging.