IBMobile

OK, The O/D switch is a momentary type, when pushed it switches a transistor relay in the PCM, then the ground for the O/D light is completed and the ground for the O/D solenoid is removed (open circuit) push it again and the ground for the light is removed (open circuit) and the ground for the O/D solenoid is closed. The light get its power from fuse #14 in the junction block. If you have good power and grounds for the PCM, the wires from the PCM to the switch, instrument cluster, and trans mission all test good the it has to be the PCM.

Do you have a factory service manual with wire diagrams?

You should have earth (ground) when you probe the BL/LG (black/ light green) of the O/D switch. This wire is connected to earth at the inside left cowl near left hand drive steering column.

You've told us all the things you've done to try an fix a problem with the overdrive but not what the problem is in your post..

30k , or 24 months for brake fluid because it is hydroscopic, is a good interval for these fluids but the Chrysler Corp didn't think to mention this in either the factory service manual or the owners manual.

It's like running the fuel through a window screen, keeps the big bugs out but lets the gnats through.

Yes, powersteering fluid degrades with use over time but there is no drain and refill interval mentioned in the maintenance guide so the interval is of your choosing. Power steering fluid is a hydraulic fluid much like transmission fluid and is not hydroscopic. It is so much like transmission fluid that the 3ed gen RAM uses the type+4 transmission fluid in the powersteering system. Note: There is an interval for changing engine oil, engine coolant, front and rear differential gear oil, automatic transmission fluid, and transfer case lube, but none for manual transmission or powersteering fluid.

Those were just some examples of things that go bad with trucks that are this old and have that many miles on them. The heatercore will leak coolant and the injectors can be weak and worn out after 100k miles. Let's not for get about front end work and transmission troubles that may or may not rear their ugly heads.

Why not, if it makes changing the fluid easier. P/S fluid changes are recommended every 30,000 mi but with a filter in there You might be able to go as long as 40-50k depending on the fluid condition. So, with that in mind how often would you use that drain, every 3-4 years? Is it worth putting in?

Save your money for parts you'll be needing like a new dash, heatercore, injectors, VP44, and on and on.

OK I got it done in less than a day. the first three pic are taken showing the distance from the left edge of the dash. The next three are the distance from the right A post cove. Distance from windshield

This chart might help. When I was a @JAG1 we toped up the A/C system on his work truck using a chart like this. JAG1 said it hadn't cooled for a year. The compressor was cycling quickly and when we were done it stayed on all the time with the low side reading, I think, of around 40 PSI.

I'll do it for you. I've got my grandson here to help. Give me a day.

At the starter relay check for power at terminal 30, then for power at terminal 86 with the key in the start position then report back. Is this an auto or a stick?

I finally have had time to work on this problem. First thing was to flush the transmission due to the trans temp going over 250°F and the fluid was dark in color. This was accomplished by disconnecting the transmission cooler return line at the left rear side of the transmission and sliding a length of 5/8" heater hose over the pipe and the other end into a 12qt oil drain. I then added 7qt of ATF through the transmission with the engine running and in neutral. The pan was then removed and the housing for the transducer and governor solenoid was replaced. The new transducer and a Borg Warner governor were installed in a modified housing. I removed a housing from a junkyard 46re and modified it to allow fluid to enter the governor solenoid freely for 360°. The 3-4 accumulator spring was replaced with a thicker spring due to their high failure rate. Borg Warner solenoid is on the right modified housing on the right I added a drain to the pan. Went to NAPA and got a M12 x 1.25 x 30mm drain plug, nut. and plastic washer. Using a strong rare earth magnet on the outside of the pan to hold the nut in place, an area was found where the drain plug would cleare the valve body and a large surface area for flat contact with the sealing washer. The hole was drilled 1/2" and the nut tack welded to the pan in three spots, this was done so not to warp the pan and to allow fluid to be able to drain under the nut. left front corner Initial road tests, post repair, the transmission has a smother, softer shift quality. The end of July I'll be towing the 5er on a 1,000 mi trip so that will be a better road test.

No, I don't. The last time I hade a book like that was in 2004.

The hood, left and right door and fender part numbers are the same for 1997 and 1999 so the cab will be the same.

Now is the time for a BHAF.

Had my left hip replaced on February 4. It was so easy that I was out looking at cars after 3 weeks and working a week after that. I still don't want to be on a roof when I'm 70 something doing this job.

That's it in a nut shell. It's tough to heal a broken hip when your 77. Would you have to "burp" it before snapping it shut.

I looked at 2 call out sheets and found that the sealants were what they call Easealent-Urethane, Easilicone , and Easilicon adhesive. Is this what you're talking about. I'd love to be able to just lay down a seal coat but with the age of the rubber roof (17 years), sub straight damage,and not having to do this when I'm 75 I'm leaning towards full replacement starting in August after a camping trip with the grand kids. In the mean time I'm gathering all the info I can about materials and technique for this project.

You have a side mount B+ terminal and need this type of diode pack. A rear B+ terminal alternator looks like this, with this type of diode pack.

Ram 1500, 2500, 3500 cab, doors, hood, grill, fenders, and interior parts are the same. Suspension, brakes, and drivetrain are a different animal. , I go to the pic-a-part yards, there are 5 of them with in 50 miles of me, all the time. You can find Ram 1500 all the time but 2500/3500 are rare, they're V10s and no diesels In SoCal there is very little rust on these parts due to no snow/salt on the road and no flood damange.

This may help show the difference.