IBMobile

OK I got it done in less than a day. the first three pic are taken showing the distance from the left edge of the dash. The next three are the distance from the right A post cove. Distance from windshield

This chart might help. When I was a @JAG1 we toped up the A/C system on his work truck using a chart like this. JAG1 said it hadn't cooled for a year. The compressor was cycling quickly and when we were done it stayed on all the time with the low side reading, I think, of around 40 PSI.

I'll do it for you. I've got my grandson here to help. Give me a day.

At the starter relay check for power at terminal 30, then for power at terminal 86 with the key in the start position then report back. Is this an auto or a stick?

I finally have had time to work on this problem. First thing was to flush the transmission due to the trans temp going over 250°F and the fluid was dark in color. This was accomplished by disconnecting the transmission cooler return line at the left rear side of the transmission and sliding a length of 5/8" heater hose over the pipe and the other end into a 12qt oil drain. I then added 7qt of ATF through the transmission with the engine running and in neutral. The pan was then removed and the housing for the transducer and governor solenoid was replaced. The new transducer and a Borg Warner governor were installed in a modified housing. I removed a housing from a junkyard 46re and modified it to allow fluid to enter the governor solenoid freely for 360°. The 3-4 accumulator spring was replaced with a thicker spring due to their high failure rate. Borg Warner solenoid is on the right modified housing on the right I added a drain to the pan. Went to NAPA and got a M12 x 1.25 x 30mm drain plug, nut. and plastic washer. Using a strong rare earth magnet on the outside of the pan to hold the nut in place, an area was found where the drain plug would cleare the valve body and a large surface area for flat contact with the sealing washer. The hole was drilled 1/2" and the nut tack welded to the pan in three spots, this was done so not to warp the pan and to allow fluid to be able to drain under the nut. left front corner Initial road tests, post repair, the transmission has a smother, softer shift quality. The end of July I'll be towing the 5er on a 1,000 mi trip so that will be a better road test.

No, I don't. The last time I hade a book like that was in 2004.

The hood, left and right door and fender part numbers are the same for 1997 and 1999 so the cab will be the same.

Now is the time for a BHAF.

Had my left hip replaced on February 4. It was so easy that I was out looking at cars after 3 weeks and working a week after that. I still don't want to be on a roof when I'm 70 something doing this job.

That's it in a nut shell. It's tough to heal a broken hip when your 77. Would you have to "burp" it before snapping it shut.

I looked at 2 call out sheets and found that the sealants were what they call Easealent-Urethane, Easilicone , and Easilicon adhesive. Is this what you're talking about. I'd love to be able to just lay down a seal coat but with the age of the rubber roof (17 years), sub straight damage,and not having to do this when I'm 75 I'm leaning towards full replacement starting in August after a camping trip with the grand kids. In the mean time I'm gathering all the info I can about materials and technique for this project.

You have a side mount B+ terminal and need this type of diode pack. A rear B+ terminal alternator looks like this, with this type of diode pack.

Ram 1500, 2500, 3500 cab, doors, hood, grill, fenders, and interior parts are the same. Suspension, brakes, and drivetrain are a different animal. , I go to the pic-a-part yards, there are 5 of them with in 50 miles of me, all the time. You can find Ram 1500 all the time but 2500/3500 are rare, they're V10s and no diesels In SoCal there is very little rust on these parts due to no snow/salt on the road and no flood damange.

This may help show the difference.

Yea, I used the Eternabond sealing tape and every year inspect the roof and put some of that Dicor self leveling sealant on it and no new leaks there.

Thanks for the replays. I thought about doing a roof coating but there is a small tear in it about 3" long and about 2" back of the front cap on the right side. It's been there since around 06 with a patch but there is wood rot in the plywood just under that area that should be fixed. I'm thinking I should do a full replacement while I can still climb a latter and have friends that can still help.

How far off RT 395 it that?

We drove through there 2 weeks ago on our way home from Bridgeport, CA. Still lots of snow in the Sierra Nevada mountains. They expect skiing at Mammoth Mountain to go till August.

I need to replace the roof on my 5er and plan on doing it myself with help from friends. The local RV shops around here want $5k to start "and it could go up from there". Right now it has an EPDM rubber roof; so has anyone replaced theirs, what did you use, and how hard was it todo?

Owens Valley, CA?

Going back there last week of July with the grandkids and for 10 days starting October 2.

I'd be looking for an axle swap. Be a lot cheaper if you do it yourself. I pull my 5th wheel up those grades, Sherwin and Conway, two to three times a year. I just lock out over drive, lock up the torque convertor, set the cruise control to 50-55, and let the truck do it thing.

To get into JAG1's place you have to go along his 1/4 mile driveway that has an 11% grade in it. Then once your there you have to turn around. We camped here for 3 nights. Below, we are getting ready to leave for Bridgeport, CA I've met your wife and she's a sweet lady. If she's slapping you it's just to tenderize the chicken.

I'd give it a try.