JAG1

I got it done. Truck runs teeny bit smoother. Had to put locking pliers using double thick leather for pad on the teeth of the flywheel so I could torque to 92 ft lbs. Rubber was mushroomed out on both sides, but the balance marks still lined up. The 1/16th inch wobble is gone. Thanks all. 015point9, can't understand.... people got nice cars and all the conveniences and act like their mad.

Mopar1973Man, do you think Dale should decrease the size of number 3 fuse as a precaution?

Thanks everyone I have a rubber mallet. It mostly for tenderizing chicken He he .... Was real nice going to Cummins and getting the new dampner that says right on it 'made in the U.S.A.' That was worth the trip even though it took 4 hrs downtown together with Cummins waiting around policy for parts. Amazing how crowded and how people drive these days they so selfish they almost run into each other... never seen that before.

I have an automatic trans so what is the best way to hold the engine from spinning while loosening bolts on the dampner? Changing this weekend since the rubber is supposed to be even, flush to the steel. Mine is mushed out all around and wobbles when running.

You usually just fly in don't you?

I hear the running boards get too much dirt piled up on top so its better to go with the bars instead. Both my trucks have bars and I like the dull aluminum over shiney polish crome. I take steel wool to brighten up the aluminum once in awhile. Mine are the cheap factory nerf bars that a lot of folks don't like so they are cheap on Craigslist, but they are a larger diameter heavy gauge aluminum tubing. I like them.

Dang, I really want to know what caused it.

Was the engine block lift pump running off the ecm when the PDC burned?

Not sure I'm understanding..... are you saying Dale, that a new fuel lift pump (recently bought yet to be installed) is set up with a relay to run off the batteries? And the old lift pump is not set up with a relay and runs off the ECM (factory lift pump power)? It needs to run off the batteries. Whenever I get the wonderful opportunity to talk with Mike he always ends the call with, ''I'll catch you on the flip''. He he.... has no idea what that means since I'm still on an old flip phone when talking to him.

Its called 'Fass' Dale. So it is powered off the batteries then? Activated by the ecm?. I was hoping we found why the burned electrical so the repairs aren't in question.

Wow! we found something here. I started my truck let it idle for about 3-4 mins and felt my fingers down on that area. No warmth at all. Thanks to Mopar1973Mans understanding he is the one that taught us all so very well about this possible problem of the lift pump being run direct off the ECM. Now we see its effect. I hope you get it repaired and all goes well.

Surprising the replacement has indications of too much heat as well. I'm going to start up my truck, Raptor pump is hooked to the battery (controlled by the ECM) and see if I can feel any warmth or heat in that area. No daylight and not enough coffee just yet though. Will report back in awhile.

Thank you I make this mistake too often assuming every discussion is about a second gen truck.

Did yours go without warning? I've had about 3-4 idler pulley bearing failures. 3 were on my 92 12 valve I drove for 22 years and one so far on my 02. Every one of those failures gave me warning. They all had a scraping or a squeal sound and always changed them before the belt came off or bearing fell apart. I think its a good idea to check that bearing at least every year now that you've shared what happened.

Daleb, where is the lift pump hooked up to? Is it directly from the ECM? or is it powered by the battery through a relay triggered by the ecm? This is rather important.

I mean test the fuse to see what amount of amperage it does blow. I would put in a new fuse any way. What has me concerned is not knowing for sure what caused the short. Brings me to thinking that I want to put in a lower amp fuse to help protect it more. You might think about doing that anyway. Mopar1973Man, any thoughts?

Can you tell us how many miles were on the belt or how old it was. Maybe even the brand, if you know, would help us all. I am sorry you are going thru this. I hope it goes well.

Yes thats a good question unless the hotspot had to be elsewhere in the burned wire, according to what Mike is saying, was a weak connection or area with greater resistance than the fuse.. Just not altogether sure, so trying to learn all I can here. It would be good to be able to test that fuse that let the wire burn and see if it is faulty. I doubt it tho.

So when Dale gets everything back together, making sure #3 fuse is the right size, he should also see whether connector #2 is getting warm again? and be ready to unhook the battery as a precaution? Or like you say the initial damaged area of the heat source shows it will be eliminated with the new PDC? Based on what your finding Dale, I would go thru and check everything you can.

Wouldn't the weak connection show its location by determining where the fire started or initial hot spot?

We need to understand what caused this on Daleb's truck especially if this is a common problem according to what the dealer said. BTW...Welcome to the forum Daleb.

Maybe an irrelevant question ..... could a deteriorated grid heater cause this problem? My first gen truck ended up with all fuseable links burned to a crisp from the grid heater. Soon as I repaired and unhooked the grid the problem went away.

So are you saying no power mods, staying with a stock motor has its advantages?

I heard one guy found a problem with one main connection that has a 'baylene' clip to it. He was under similar circumstances as you. Its on the harness up high near the top firewall and cowell and has a white retaining clip that swivels or swings out of the way to disconnect. He said his wasn't in all the way and clicked it in and his problem went away. If your fuelp pressure is 33 that is way too high and may be damaging your VP44. Pressure that high can blow out some seals and I'm wondering if thats what your experiencing and then the seal goes back in place after shut down. Shooting in the dark here.

If your close to a source while its raining go down and get the correct size sealing washers. I like extras hanging on my tool board. I think sizes might be all the same but that's what you should make sure of, that your getting the right ones.