JAG1

Yes thats all I've ever used and will continue to use. Used regular non detergent 30 wt oil in my old Getrag 5 spd. Shop couldn't figure out why my trans lasted 425,000. They were scratching their heads.

No matter whats been done... let the past be done and gone. It is right and proper to always give a guy a second chance because we are all made in this way that we be given the chance to show good character toward each other. Furthermore, running a business today can be so difficult. I'm thankful businesses can hang in there the way they do, but You guys that never been in biz will never know the real burden it can be.

I saw a guy change to synth one time... after about a hundred thousand there was oil all over the engine from leaks. It was incredible how he thought it was so good and kept going on and on about how I need his car not to go looking at any others. He was college professor. Of course I walked away and found a real cream puff, no leaks, no tappet noise etc for 5 thousand bucks. It served us well for a long time on fred flintstone oil rinses every 5,000 miles.

I don't know. What began my problem having a two in kit was the vibration at 65mph coming home from the mechanic. I got home and you could see the tires sticking out almost an inch more to one side. After the adjustable track bar and getting the wheels even the vibration went away. Had to work a bit at getting the steering wheel back straight. After loading my camper I realized I needed air bags. I have two second gen trucks one with the kit and one without. I enjoy the slight lift while driving on the one truck but its better to not lift it really because the dynamics are better on the standard height 4x4. Hard to explain just the one not lifted is more comfortable ride.

mine is the two inch leveling kit and just pucks.

Then you will need a lot more to go with that. I.E. adjustable track bar, longer front shocks, Longer end links, and rear air bags to take out the sag when loaded. I recommend not doing it. The factory track bar is too short and makes the differential stick out more on one side and then get a front driveshaft vibration until recentered. At least that my experience.

What a piece of ................. great design is that? Is our EPA responsible for that? I think IBMobile has these stickered on the side of his truck

I understand. There is a greater potential to flood a piston with common rail too, right?

What portion of the information you gave pissed them off Mike?

Dripley is right as this is very important to never go below 14.

Yes inside the cap is a rubber bushing/ sleeved onto the dipstick and pushed up inside the cap. It seems that it shrank and won't hold snug to the tube any longer. It wood be nice if it fit correctly, but I'm wondering if its designed to vent thru the tube instead.

Mine has a rubber bushing at the top under the little metal cap the handle's attached to, but mine bounces out about a quarter inch soon as you push it in and want it to stay there it pops right back. At least the cap covers the fill tube mostly. It would be nice if it fit proper. Almost like the dip stick is too long and the bushing shrank.

I think I paid a lot less than that at O'Reillys. Yes its easy to do if you have a small and short ratcheting phillips screw driver. Getting down on the floor and working underneath can be difficult. I take a 2 ft step ladder and make a platform to lay on just outside the door. It helps me lay on the floor supporting my main body with my feet down on the driveway loads more comfortable.

Do you have good fuel pressure which is so essential for a healthy VP44? I would put the original ECM back on and do the diagnostics because a rebuilt ECM does not guarantee not having issues. Many are not rebuilt correctly. Are you running two stroke oil in the fuel? about one ounce to a gallon will buy insurance for the VP. Keep us posted.... we are interested in seeing you get this running properly again.

I tried pulling off the squirrel cage to try getting lube to the motor bearings. I ended up ruining the motor so I got one from Oreillys' and its been fine.

I'm old so skull has gotten thick....... I've seen this under at least one of my trucks 2001 and 2002. Can someone tell me we are simply to eliminate the valve and run a new brake line in its place? Is that correct? Thank you

I'm glad you mentioned Control arm bushings as I have a clunk and worried about ball joints. I'm sure its not now.... Thanks, because BJ's where done not long ago. Did you get the wood split/ stacked yet?

You don't count..... your truck's your second wife....... married to the dang thing.

I'm noticing more and more second gens getting fixed up and seeing some nice ones around.

These second gens look better and better all the time don't they.

Your horn should be sounding off too when truck thinks your a thief.... are the horns working at all? Mine will go off even when unlocking with my key sometimes. Its pain in the ***. mostly happens in town. I guess where there is more cell phones and other radio equipment. One solution is to wrap the alarm circuit box in tin foil as tight as possible.

I had to hunt down the right size to get them to start in. Others the hole was stretched so I put in the next size up, but had to drill some. I had to keep trying to find some that worked. I found that Napa had packages with more inside and about the same price as other places only having a few inside and had more selection.

My 2nd gen does that when the alarm goes off. I can start it and shuts down within seconds. Its the alarm system going off for no reason on mine and shutting down because it thinks I'm a thief. As soon as I get the alarm off with the key FOB I can start it and go just fine.

leaving some of the screws a little loose may help the new dash hold up better under exp and contraction.

He also turns em off when she gets on his case for not going to church.