JAG1

I used to do that, but one occasion I couldn't get the truck to hold prime. Was strange because after new set of filters I'd prime it just fine, but three times all fuel drained back to the tank right after shut down. I finally traced it to the cap not tight enough, being that it is plastic, I was afraid of tightening too much. It says right on it though to go to 25 ft. pounds and I also go with a little oil on the O ring.

Not to change the subject.... Mike, is that picture taken when you did the W-T grounding mods? That mod does so much good, I had to do it to both my 2nd gens. Both showed great improvement in lower AC ripple, being that it was cut to less than half what it was.

I always go factory specs of 25 ft. pounds to tighten the cap. Making sure O ring is clean, I rub a bit of oil around it as well to help with removal the next time with six sided socket.

Never the less..... yer not supposed to Hi jack threads.

Just a couple tips; When you get it running the next time try removing the fuel cap to see if problem goes away as you may have a clogged tank vent. This combined with air sucking into the fuel lines on the suction side could be compounding the trouble. Make sure factory fuel filter cap has the o ring set correctly and is torqued to 25 lbs. I once had your symptoms due to thinking it was 'tight enough' after checking, it revealed that was my problem Foamy fuel could be that the return fuel is affecting what the draw straw is lifting up if too close. Not sure on this one though as the drawstraw when the tank is full should be plenty deep into the fuel and away from air mixed fuel. The quick connect fuel lines can sometimes be a problem and since changing out my fuel system from inadequate in tank system to Vulcan Raptor 150 and 1/2 inch all the way, I've been chasing air suction problems during cold temps and fuel being thicker. I know its weird...... It used to suck air and bounce around all the time, but with each change and improvement made to the lines while hunting this down, made for better behavior of the F/P gauge. Cutting out the quick connects and getting the right size hose clamps helped after having wrong size clamps. making sure everything is tight. I even had to emery cloth the new VP fuel inlet fitting since that weeped fuel. Both my second gens have the return fuel going into the fill neck using the fill vent on the side. Which in turn allowed me to use the factory return nipple on tank module for more reliable tank vent. Tank vent is run up high with a piece of tubing near the fill neck with a small gas filter attached to the end. This helps insure that hot fuel and air mixed fuel does not get picked up by the drawstraw. For whatever its worth I hope this helps.

I read neutral also. I noticed mine also taking awhile to engage in reverse. It happened when I got up to around 90,000 miles. It is the truck I use to haul the rv and sits more than the work truck. It took such noticeably longer that I thought the trans might be in trouble. So every week I drive the truck some to recirculate trans fluid, always putting it in neutral for a few seconds first. I think it helps to do that. I haven't tried going into drive after a long time parked, but reverse used to take awhile. Might be possible that neutral brings up the fluid to a point that its ready to flow into the convertor when it is placed in gear. Jon will have to tell us for certain tho. IBMobile that is a good story on your trans fix. I appreciate that tip/fix you found.

I think IBMobile must stay up till midnight finding these cartoons

I'll take the excavator and dig a trench around it. We'll get it perfect height for you. How wide is chicken feet so I allow enough room. Something like 4 ft. in diameter? I'll take a beer.

Dripley, remember, 'slow and deliberate'! That thought worked for me along with Mopar1973Mans willingness to coach me every step of the way. Go slow, everything step by step not pulling your hair out. Excuse me..... your feathers out.

Most helpful ISX, Thank you

Yep Mopar1973Man is a real cell phone slinger too.... so many call needing advice he should get paid for each minute on the phone. He has helped me tons.

Yep Mopar1973man is a real wrench slinger does a dang good job on those VP's, but If I'm any where near the job and a bolts missing, get a flashlight and look down the intake tube. He beatin me to death over that even tho my own truck

I also cannot stand the sound of that female computer voice. If she was my wife I'd move to Borneo to get away from it. Its just awful. Voicemail is so redundant, stupid and yes some folks not only talk too fast but also too lazy to fully pronounce each word without sloshing them all together. My voicemail message says, 'please do not leave a voicemail, but send me a text instead. Thank you.

Just a couple tips..... Try spending some time with the client to educate them on simple things they should do to take better care of their car. Those times with the client will go a long ways for your future. In other words give them custom attention and leave the phone ringing if someone calls.... it lets them know you think they are important. But always call back the caller as soon as you possibly can. My clients and I have an unwritten rule that you don't need to leave a voice mail, waste time with that, because if I see your call it won't be long and I call back. You could leave a reminder sheet on the seat on what will need attention sooner than later like a brake fluid change or rear brakes soon. That sort of thing. Try sticking with the easier jobs... don't get into highly specialized items where your probability of having problems greatly increases. In other words, stay with the smaller easier jobs. You'll have more satisfied people that way and it will be easier money for you. Never think profit comes from haste work, always spend the time needed to do a better job than anyone else. The folks looking for inexpensive work might be more problematic for you. You need to price yourself to be competitive not running on the margin and not dealing with folks running the wrong kind of lifestyles. Get liabilty insurance on your business. I hope all goes well......

we looked so many places for the damn thing the only place left was the intercooler and guess what..... what do ya know........holding a flashlite.... there it was.

I know this one... if he wasn't working on my truck at the time he'd of chased me away with a Big Effing Hammer that for sure. For the life of me I cannot remember why

I'm relieved to her about you getting rain. That hopefully is the turn of the tide everywhere in this very dry season. Even NW Oregon looks like southern California as if we should be planting Orange groves.

I made a mistake in my above post saying I'm running Air Dog Pumps in both my trucks. The truth is they both are running the Raptor Lift pumps. 2002 has the R 100 (too weak) and the 2001 has the R150. I'm sorry as I glance at my Raptor installation manual, at the bottom has written 'Purflow AirDog'. so that how I got it confused. I cut those off after having air problems and got correct size stainless clamps and just old fashion hose with a clamp. BTW, I got Vulcan performance very first 1/2'' draw straw ever built. I was Erics testing grounds.

I have two 2nd gens and the one with the Raptor 100 is too weak and soft. There is that pucker factor while carrying a load accelerating uphills. I keep turning up the pressure but the pressure swing keeps going too close to 14 psi to suit me. Esp. on hot days and the VP has a little more trouble staying cool. My other 2nd gen with the Raptor 150 is so much better than the 100. Really they should stop selling the 100 all together. Its not worth the puny chicken feed savings it offers.

Yes talk to Eric at Vulcan performance. Closed weekends, sometimes anseres the phone weekends, he sells the big line kit and AirDog 150 for 420 bucks. You need this at bare minimum. Talk to him tho so he can send you the proper set up.

Yeah now MoparMan taken away the wonderful pleasure of writting a check for donations, I used to enjoy it so much too. Wonderful guy, he crabs at me for it . Anyhow, so now I have to figure out this electronic transfer stuff, like I'm an alien on mars it feels like, to feel right about calling 50 million times.

I only had to call him every 15 minutes....... OKAY! Now I got that done, so what's next? Step by step it was. Sometimes Moparman try to eliminate another call, I could tell, cause he'd try cramming two steps into one and I'd say, hey wait a minute, wait till I get this first thing first . Finally I got it done and went very smooth and started right up. The toughest part was trying to hold back Moparmans race horse on the phone. It was like he trying to cram a whole prime rib down my throat. LOL cause everytime... that second step, he'd try slipping in would be a giant echo in that hollow space between my shoulders.

Mike, get one of those whirlybird grass seeders and make quick work out of seeding some grass up above your house in that black area. If the rains start slow the fall is a good time to get grass to take a hold and get growing. Hay seed is good it, grows aggressive.

Thats what I love about this forum.... people take the time to help and explain some very intelligent aspect about the subject at hand. Thank you Haggar, you put some work into explaining that. And to you also Mopar1973Man, I appreciate all that has been said. Will get back in a day or so.....

Just like you I had a lesser DVM and had to go for a Fluke, I found a Fluke 77 for $40 bucks on Craiglist. It works well. I would even try calling pawn shops for one.