JAG1

Greenlee, You should get someone to watch the gauge while your turning down fuel pressure. I went down to ten and then slowly turned it up to 28 I believe and then put it in the proper range of 19 and my problem for a year is now gone. I wouldn't run the truck without getting the relay on there first and get 1/2 inch lines. Otherwise, even tho you put it at 19 at idle those tiny fuel lines will let it drop below 14 when going up hill or accelerating and thats bad. 10 is okay momentarily at idle, but not when running down the road and the injection pump is hot.

Okay..... my set up is exactly the may Moparman says to do it, but I want Greenlee to know that I had continual F/P problems even though set up the right way. The other day MoparMan asked me to turn the regulator almost all the way down and then slowly all the way up to about 25 and see if that helped the fuel pressure swings. It did stop the problem and it's now a steady 19 at idle. Wholey cow after a year of fighting it it was just the regulator all along.

I call him a 'free range chicken' cause he builds 'em all over the place. From what I understand he is the only one that gets them completed and operating in the shortest amount of time.

Notice how Dripley says, 'skin the cat' ? Thats because he don't want to admit how many chickens he's plucked. He's sick of it...... He works for Chic-Fil-A.

I'm with you Dripley, I like the old ways and a stubborn olfart about it. How do you fix that or this? And how much are they screwin' you by already having a newer verson ready but not available till all old ones sold and don't say a word about it. Then I found out a lot of these electronic companies charge a lot even though it's garbage guts inside thats mostly all proprietary information.

You have a great chance to insulate sooo much better, than RV's using rigid foam board. Mine has only 1'' thick bead board. Don't know about others.

Now is a good time to send in your tax deductable donation for the year if you haven't done so. Thank you members. Michael Nelson does a terrific job on this site and spends more time helping others in so many ways.

That's a lot of water, I hope you find where its coming from. Do you have the cab marker lights? Also is it possible you forgot and left a window down in a heavy downpour?

I used to do a lot of ABS piping and found that the bezel is regular ABS plastic. So I also found that ABS glue works very very well on the bezel. It fuses right now when you make repairs using it.

I'll be right over..... I heard your holding dash bezel removal classes with yer truck GSP7, I heard that your not supposed to touch the gauge needles at all, so be careful.

It must be more of a problem for me with the tight quarters being it's a truck camper. It will get to where every bit of glass is covered with condensation even with vents cracked. Dang.... I sure did hijack Nicks thread. Sorry about that.

Using the two stroke oil for an additive may have something to do with it.... Anyone seen any differences with the head pulled on an engine not using it?

I'm thinking possible crack in that hose where it connects behind the firewall. How much water did you say you got out so far ?

Ours is 39 inch wide rolls and you heat with a propane type weed burner. It can go fast laying it down, but that fast may mean mistakes too, so I like your heat gun way.

How do you deal with humidity and condensation in winter? Do you have a dehumidifier? I think Dripley uses his Fiver in winter. Also what hitch for the truck is a go to brand and type. I would like to get the best, maybe easier to use. T.I.A. If I do this I want one about like IBMobile has. It's not too huge

Dripley, you use your 5th wheel in winter at times right? How do you keep condensation and moisture from being a problem? Do you have a dehumidifier in there?

I'm not sure...... I know a lot of house flies cruise at 90 in your truck.. Sorry Mike couldn't resist I think Dripley has a custom gutter that channels eggs from the back up forward to the kitchen.

The stuff we used last this summer you overlapped by 4 inches or whatever overlapped finished the work at the end. Had to make sure it had at least a 1/4'' of melted squish out at the edges or overlaps. that makes sure your getting the right temperatures and becomes fused.

Sound must have been toned down a little I suppose. Can't really say for sure because I didn't drive it to hear it before I torched it down. Idea was to get some weight on the floor pans so it wouldn't act like a telegraph in a sense. It gave it some thickness before the factory matt. One dealer wanted $279.00 and make a deposit. Other dealer wanted $179.00 just pay when it comes in. I liked those guys and always bought from them after that.

Its the same same Dave. Calling it rubber torch down started years ago out here. I forget that it just simply called torch down membrane now.

Thats a big plus.... hitting tailgators with horse apples. I think Dripley's might a chicken coup in the back of his camper.

Wow that is a lot. I hope you get it dry before it begins to mold. I think the carpet padding has a definite characteristic of not wanting to dry very fast. That's why I slide 1x2s under the padding to get some air under there. I guess it is possible to put a shop vac hose under there and let it run all night to keep the air moving. On my old first gen had a water problem, tore out all the carpet and pad. I used the heavy torch down rubber roofing for sound deadening and then bought the factory matt to go on top. It was nice having a work rig without carpet. I even drilled holes in the floor pans for drainage

In my case the cab lites didn't leak enough to show water in the headliner. The headliner made it all drain toward the pillar and only saw a water trail after raining. My carpet got soaked from cleaning the evaporator thru where the blower motor was removed using a garden hose. A couple afternoons I had to use the wifes hair dryer to help it along. Took three weeks all toll.

My cab marker lites leaked a couple times before I figured it out. Water ran down inside the window /door pillar. It wasn't enough to soak the carpet though. I put small O rings on each screw head and that stopped it. Another time I did soak my carpet while rinsing out the evaporator inside the HVAC plenum with the blower motor pulled. My water run out tarp shifted and got the carpet soaked. By removing the door threshold I lifted the carpet and pad and slide old towels underneath and kept squishing water into the towels. Next I slide 1x2's under the carpet pad to create air space, leaving those 1x2s in there it took three weeks to completely dry but it did dry. I like Dieselfutures way about getting things done

How close to the coast are you and is your home on high ground?