JAG1

Dave you will feel like you are on higher ground when you get to meet MoparMom. That is how she makes you feel when you visit with her. Happy birthday Dave.

I owe you some pics too IBM from that camp, see if I can get my thoughts off the Trucks and get them posted up. Nice sunny day not hot if I remember.

I did not see one but know what to look for now. Will let you know. I need to get a new chip/ card in my camera for pics... dang! I want to show you guys too as my wife's so pissed with 3 Cummins trucks sitting out there she won't even go see the leather seats or nothing. Her house guest even got on my case about it... so two woman against one little truck lovin guy.

Anyone know any tricks to tell if the injection pumps been changed? I can see the mounting bolts have had a wrench on them but can see a bar code tag on the side. Also the lift pump on the block (truck is entirely stock) does not look anything like the one that was on my 2002 when I bought it. It's kind of made with square shapes instead of a hocky Puck shape with, like the Carter with lines coming out the top.????? It's a weird looking lift pump. Anyone have an idea? Could be I'm looking at the wrong thing too! Me like this after buying truck Won't be driving it till it gets big lines and a good lift pump. Need to set it up right Michael says', ''thank God he's getting rid of the old 92 after umpteen problems and 15 million phone calls.''

I removed intank screens put the Rapter 100 on the frame with 1/2'' lines all the way and a 1/2'' draw straw. Removed cylindrical shaped plastic fuel filter in the fuel module that has screens and f/p is at 19 idle and 15 WOT going uphill with a load. Eric at Vulcan performance, now called performance supply has the best deals and best parts for the big line kit. Even his 90 degree angle going into the injection pump is a longer sweep 90. Run around town with your fuel fill cap loose to see if you have a tank venting/ vacuum problem. If you do.... best to find a vented fuel cap.

I second that! Have to change mine also

Yes, I put on a needle valve. Main reason for the gauge on a mechanical pump engine is because of the cheaply made mechanical pump now, not like the original, mine failed involving the linkage coming apart.... used to be the diaphragm would always go. Thank you for the tip on Cummins piston pumps. Like it when I get a new item to read about. I'm getting average 6 p.s.i ,can pull down to around 4 if I really get on it but glad I did not do that much as my Turbo was leaking oil into the intercooler and didn't know it. Sometimes I see 7.5 p.s.i. but rarely.

Just replaced water pump too while in there. Next to clean the intercooler if I can get the grill off. Then drop the tank find air leak on that ol' first gen. Be nice to make it out your way sometime Dave.

I just did mine on the 12 valve. Came out good cause engine front is clean and no more drips. Today is new/rebuilt turbo day for the old girl.. You got a spot for a camper?

That's sad. How's that going to help anybody? My 1992 12 valve has helped me on remodels and new construction for almost 21 years. Same engine. It helped build our home. It hauled as much stuff as I should never been puttin' on there. I did jobs in California when jobs got skinny. It helped me buy the 2002 and helped pay it off What kind of reasoning is that crap above? It does no good whatsoever and just stupid. Sorry for the rant.

How come I saw 6 big glops of carbon layin' on your driveway after you pulled 'em?

I chose to go for lifetime warrantee on rebuilt starters. I'm on my second free starter now with a total of 4 starters on my old first gen truck. Current free one has been flawless for about 4 years now.

Thank you, I will watch for that. Wonder how the electronic dimming mirror gets hooked up, most likely a simple connection on top of the glass .Better if I test to see if working before I get the work done. I drive it so few times I don't know.

Each time I've had a windshield replaced I've had leaks so is there anything I should watch out for with these glass shops? Perhaps go to a body shop instead? This break happened on my nice 90,000 mile second gen. It's a nice clean truck well maintained so I want it done right. Are there ways to do the job better on a second gen that I should know about? What to ask etc.?

Wild and Free, Nice! Looks like you've been swimmin in projects. What do you use that coiled/ folded hose for? Second Pic upper right.

There's no hope for those addicted

nice pic tbo1450, Now you need a full time guard to go with it.

Jamman, on something like that I always call Cummins engine and get specs or get it from them. Sorry I hijacked your thread just a little

It's curable as long as the truck has no problems otherwise it's and call Mike for the ten thousandth time. Poor guy never gets a break. Reasons I been like that..... Work truck breaks down in middle of major remodel job. Mike says injectors, so I put in new ones but it's got major fuel leaks from over tightened delivery valves back of injection pump. Now need new injection pump. Guy puts in injection pump but high pressure lines now leaking. Remove front I/P bracket to get to lines and tighten. Found front bracket put in wrong and one lost bolt in process so straighten that out. Now major idle problem with big blue smoke Go to Snap On get right tools to retime I/P. Bolts were loose holding I/P in place. Pull mechanical lift pump and find linkage broke inside. No fuel pressure. Change lift pump with same crappy pump from Cummins. Add fuel pressure gauge but dropped RPM gauge in the process so now not working. Pull cover off Turbo and look, found bad oil seal and oil going to intercooler. Pull turbo and goes to rebuilder tomorrow. Use second gen to take in Turbo and start it up since not run for a couple weeks and it's got error codes. Tell me I'm not crazy....Poor Mike I haven't left him alone with calls and it's pretty bad when your donation morphs into consultation fees.. Oh Yeah! somewhere in between all this we pulled the gear cover off andfinally tabbed the KDP at 425,000 miles only cause it needed a new crank seal. All that went very well Did I forget to tell you that I wrecked my nice Trucks antenna, using it for work by forgetting to unplug the block heater and driving off I don't think you guys will want me around at the Eclipse camp..

Why not call Cummins engine to see if they have them in stock? At least now you have the stud in hand to see if its correct size. I recently posted too much about my first gen as if it the experiences would apply to a 24 valve. People so nice around here they should have told me to shut up or got on my case in some other way. They didn't . Anyhow it's interesting the VP44 is much the same as the VE pump on the bottom half. The nuts on my VE first gen dodge are 13mm nuts but doesn't mean the nuts are the same on a VP44. I would just make a run to Cummins but call first to make sure they have them.

Let us know why they were tough to pull.

I think I can do the outer sheath so it drains any leaks outside. After I install the plastic tube line to the gauge, slide a larger outer tube over the feed tubing and attach with permatex and clamp over the brass gauge connection nipple at the top.. I think that will work cause having a gauge outside exposed to the elements may not be good. Gauge has a plastic PVC housing that probably won't like UV rays. I think Michael Nelson said the P.S.I. should be between 6 and 12 in a VE injection system. Did I get that right? Many thanks Josen.

In trying to find why my old 1992 truck idles terrible after an injector and VE pump change (runs good otherwise), I've been checking for air leaks/ fuel leaks/ timing etc., I decided to replace the lift pump and delete the fuel heater since they looked like they were weeping fuel. I found when I took off the old lift pump the linkage that pulls down the diaphragm was no longer connected to the actuating arm that rides on the cam. This means I drove around for about a week with a new VE injection pump and no fuel pressure . This was odd since most mechanical pumps fail from a worn leaking diaphragm, not a cheaply pressed in linkage inside. In looking at the original L/P from 1992, it was built much better and had twice the miles on it and still worked. So off I went looking at new L/Pumps,but all were from Korea or Turkey and all had the same cheaply built insides as the one that failed. I went to Cummins parts an found they even sell this new cheaply built version as well but theirs did not say where it is made. This is the moment I learned even the old 12 valves need to have a fuel pressure gauge as well. I'm installing it with no Isolator, but, will have two lines going to the gauge so if leak develops the outer line will capture the leak and let it drain in the engine area. Not sure about all the ways yet but figuring it out. Suggestions very welcome, thanks.

I've never seen a guy so far in gear to go camping as IBM. He is dialed in more than anyone I've ever seen and knows a trick or two.

It should work shouldn't it? I would take a measure tape and check all dimensions. Even go diagonal across the doors, like an X to measure to specific points and corners. Check hinges too. If you get a good set of doors, I heard about a guy tired of the rust, found a way to get a spray coating of oil each year down inside the bottom of the doors. Not sure how he got access down in there.