JAG1

Mine would be okay as I have an increased size, 1/2'' rubber fuel hose return near the sweated nipple on the fill necks. I like it dumping the return fuel there, I can see it when opening the cap and helps mix the two stroke additive. Now to look for return style fuel pressure regulator. I like the benefits it carries.

Are you saying even though I have Raptor pumps, I could install return style fuel pressure regulators? Simple as installing a 'T' on outlet line with another 'T' on the existing return line? I appreciate everyone's help/ comments they all help to bounce the thoughts around and come to a much better understanding.

I get what you are saying. I wonder if there's any benefit to run a pressure bleed off line back to the tank, allowing more flow Like a 'T' fitting to the outlet side of the L/P since I have Raptor 150's. ? That would help the filtering as well.

Thanks, I appreciate the comment.

Maybe @W-T would be kind enough to explain why a return line lift pump (dumping excess pressure into the return) has less chance for cavitation than one that does not. Also does the return type L/P help to continually polish the fuel by circulating more volume thru the prefilter?

I know they had a Chick Fil A built but had no permanent source of power from the grid. This was simply because the shopping center adjacent was already at capacity. They knew this going in and figured they could buy an easement to come in from another way but one property owner is holding them hostage in a sense because he wants a ton of money for the easement to run the utilities. They can horizontally drill and control with directional drilling so the owners property wouldn't be disturbed or muddied up. I know he had that and then at the same time starting another Chic Fil A he says is his last one and then he retires, This last one is quite a distance for him too. So a lot going on. Dripley told me about one other Chic Fil A that went way behind schedule. So bad they had to fire the superintendent. They got Dripley right when he needed a break as they had no other choice. I think he been overwhelmed with all this at once. I just now remembered all this stuff

Well this time he doesn't text back. This the first time he hasn't obliged. I wonder if he is okay. Anyone got any ideas for finding out?

Smart ash! I can see you never want to try winning a debate around here... too many cowboys! No better place to be really.

I did not want the inlet screen. I took those out and provided a Racor, factory designed for the suction side, 30 micron 60/90 GPH prefilter. Been really good to me so far. Engines at sea use them and a running engine is a live saver in hazardous conditions. You do not want to rely on a teeny little inlet screen take that out and put a good prefilter on. A water separating prefilter's job is to stop the lift pump from elmulsifying the water into tiny droplets making it harder for the factory filter to do it's job of removing water.

Interesting conversation. The law regarding the sump is written because if in a wreck with a fire they don't want fuel to be pouring out. I think I found it once in the D.O.T. regulations. If the insurance got a hold of the info, modification to the fuel supply, which caused issues, it might place you in a very awkward position even if the accident weren't your fault. I say this to protect you guys. Racor has them specifically for the suction side of the system.

Both my prefilters between both trucks now over 100,000 miles no issues mine are designed for the suction side of the lift pump. Then also you need to consider when running back roads with little used filling stations where their fuel may not be the freshest around. Without a pre filter the lift pump can emulsify the water droplets with the fuel and then factory filter cannot do an effective job of water separation. Truck that hauls heavy gets the 90 GPH Racor prefilter Truck that hauls lighter gets the 60 GPH Racor prefilter Drilling the 4'' hole with the sump on the tank bottom is illegal in the US. Most that have done this regret the weeping or leaking fuel. Never drill the bottom of a fuel tank Dass Bad!

I had my plumber sweat in a small barbed adapter to the side of the fuel fill necks on both trucks so my hot return goes down the fill necks instead of near the module.

I might be mistaken but, I think Vulcan Performance has their full 1/2 inch line and Raptor LP kit with an adapter that allows the tip of the 1/2 inch draw straw (included in the kit) to slide up and down as the fuel module moves up and down. The factory module has a sleeved bottom so it can slide up and down so the kit has a snap in adapter for the new draw straw. You would have to talk to someone that sells Vulcan kits. Many times Eric down at Vulcan will answer the phone only during business hours. I installed mine 3 or 4 years ago so that's why you would need to verify this. I remember only that Eric's kit is pretty slick for $425/ $460 something like that with the lift pump. I avoided the quick disconnect fittings in the kit and used barbed fittings with ss. clamps. The quick connects are known to leak air sometimes. The factory screens at the bottom of the module are removed. Adding a prefilter before the lift pump makes it just right to protect the lift pump allowing the factory filter to not have to do all the work. This is important if you get a bad batch of fuel (very rare) you can change the large prefilter easier.

As I stated previous I had the 100 but, then showed weakness around 60,000 miles. Now boht trucks have 150's and they are noticeably better. Go for a 150 you will spend the right money and it run cooler, doesn't have to work as hard so will last a long time. IBMobile had trouble with his Mechanical pump and Raptor has treated me so unbelievably well... I hope they still that way. Mopar Man has seen too many failures with Fass. I was surprised when we talked about it over the phone one day. No I don't own shares in Raptor, LOL!

Get the power from batteries not the ECM Bud!

Don't mess with trying to start that now as you may further damage the ECM in a big hurry doing that. Just get rid of that whole damaging set up and do it right. When I bought my trucks I wouldn't even drive them for a short run with that crazy factory set-up. Use a credit card if your young like me once and had barely anything to start with. Me old and have money I turned into a real squeaky tight wad. Ask Mopar Man, he knows! You could hot wire the lift pump for a test so it wouldn't hurt the ECM. Can you rent a heated storage unit big enough get the truck inside? For a month or two? I would look on Craigs for renting short term some sort of garage with heat.

Me too. I did not ask him too much about that after he talked like his absence was just sort of a break from everything because of a death in the family. It hit everyone real hard. Im going to get after him again and report back next few days or so.

Raptor 150 is a good one and is a notch up from the least expensive Raptor 100. Raptor has adjustable fuel pressure regulator. When you first get it running you have to break in or seat the regulator by turning fuel pressure up to 27 then down to 6/7 keep doing that for about 3-4 times and it steadies up the pressure real nice. Is it possible you can find a friends garage to set it up right? There's drawbacks to not getting everything at once. I don't see how a 150 will mount to the factory (pain in the arse) factory engine mount bracket. I would plan on doing everything it needs because you can damage the new lift pump not clearing out and getting rid of the in tank screens. It may be starving the VP as is.

Dripley answers my texts but, still says his second gen Dodge is acting up and can't diagnose it. He bought a smaller truck to run around in. I wish he would show up around here.

Yep and there's screens in the tank that cause restriction when they collect sediment and growth making the pump run hotter. Just do frame mounted Pump with 1/2'' lines. The kit from Vulcan Performance is a really good conversion kit. I like my Raptor 150's as they are showing signs that they are durable. The 100 started showing weakness at about 60,000 miles. Had to keep turning up the pressure adjustment once a year or so. So I went for the 150's and they been real steady for me. Good to have a sediment 30 micron water separating filter before the lift pump to stop the water from mixing with fuel. It it mixes and emulsify with the fuel, then the factory filter can't do a good job of water separation.

Make sure you get the wire harness to run off the batteries thereby protecting the ECM. Ecm is used only to trigger the relay, with a protection diode, so there is no reverse load, no AC ripple going upstream to the ECM. I really like my Raptor 150's for both trucks. I think Raptor sells their with the wire harness.

You guys are all Deplorable Rednecks in that valley. Sheriff has a hard time solving crime too since there is no dental records and the DNA is pretty much all the same. Mike where's the nearest real estate office there? I got cash!

I still think good fuel pressure helps the timing piston to float on more lubrication in a sense. I would try running around for awhile on heavy doses to 2 stroke oil. I had 0216 code for 2-3 years running long distances on heavy doses. Also the Walmart stuff seems to be thinner grade like its more watery so I always went for Pennzoil 2 stroke oil or other long standing brands. It cost more but it didn't soak thru my throw away cardboard funnels so readily. I had to use funnels because of the difficulty in filling a flatbed with the fill spout built in the bed rail.

yes I notice that too! I think it's high time we tell them why we are leaving for another place whenever it's like that. Make them wake up and get 'Woke'

Do you guys think these problems are due in part because of the new generation? I'm inclined to pay more and drive to the location to get parts. Unbox it right over the counter and make them responsible to get another if damaged. I think this way because an actual store would have more clout to cause the supplier to get it right. Do you notice too, that many younger generation folks don't fully pronounce words and syllables? Kind of like a lazy way of speech, to me shows a general lack of respect a maybe degree of laziness. Recently had to purchase around a thousand bucks worth of high quality hardware but, the young lady talked fast, slurred words, impatient like I am steeling time from her important life. I told her right off that I was sorry, that I will find somewhere else because of the way she talked to me and said goodbye. I called another place and they were patient, willing to explain things, asked me to come down and verify everything together with an appointment. It was like night and day difference. Most everyone there was older generation people. .